Quote from: edshakey link=topic=10607.msg647580#msg647580What's the hardest women's onsight?Good question. Dunno. The first 8c onsight seems to have been credited to Kajsa Rosen in 2016 for the uninspiringly named T-1 Full equipe also at Oliana assuming that’s held it’s grade
What's the hardest women's onsight?
Quote from: shark on November 03, 2021, 11:07:02 amQuote from: shurt on November 03, 2021, 10:48:22 amQuote from: shark on November 03, 2021, 09:56:38 amPaul Reeve saw Gaskins get really high on redpoint nearly up into Make It Funky which means he got past the low mono move which Will was struggling on which he only managed for the first time last weekWas this his 'few moves from easy ground' attempt he mentions in the book then? (Dont have book to hand so going on hazy memory) Good knowledge SharkThe overriding memory Paul has was that Gaskins got high enough that Paul thought he was going to do it. Unfortunately Paul is unclear the exact position Gaskins fell off - after all he didn’t realise then that he was one of the few independent witnesses that saw Gaskins get close or do something significant and so would lead him to be quizzed about it years later.I think Rich Heap was around that day too. I'll ask him.It's one of the reasons I've felt the doubts about JG's claims are maybe less warranted. Having had witnesses to such a close effort, if JG was going to lie about anything, surely it would be quite believable to say "Yeah, amazing, went back a couple of mornings later and did it".
Quote from: shurt on November 03, 2021, 10:48:22 amQuote from: shark on November 03, 2021, 09:56:38 amPaul Reeve saw Gaskins get really high on redpoint nearly up into Make It Funky which means he got past the low mono move which Will was struggling on which he only managed for the first time last weekWas this his 'few moves from easy ground' attempt he mentions in the book then? (Dont have book to hand so going on hazy memory) Good knowledge SharkThe overriding memory Paul has was that Gaskins got high enough that Paul thought he was going to do it. Unfortunately Paul is unclear the exact position Gaskins fell off - after all he didn’t realise then that he was one of the few independent witnesses that saw Gaskins get close or do something significant and so would lead him to be quizzed about it years later.
Quote from: shark on November 03, 2021, 09:56:38 amPaul Reeve saw Gaskins get really high on redpoint nearly up into Make It Funky which means he got past the low mono move which Will was struggling on which he only managed for the first time last weekWas this his 'few moves from easy ground' attempt he mentions in the book then? (Dont have book to hand so going on hazy memory) Good knowledge Shark
Paul Reeve saw Gaskins get really high on redpoint nearly up into Make It Funky which means he got past the low mono move which Will was struggling on which he only managed for the first time last week
Little interview up here
Quote from: remus on November 02, 2021, 06:02:42 pmLittle interview up hereBizarre him saying he would have given it 9a if done it first go of the day cos felt piss. You don’t grade a seige by the go you do it as it usually does feel easy. The 38 days longer than the Spanish 9b and all the effort is probably a better indication
Interrupting Mutation related chat:Fish Eye 8c onsight for Janja in Oliana What's the hardest women's onsight?
Amazing!1 minute of searching has yielded no results for Janja climbing outside (apart from that video on the chimney ). Is there any existing footage of her on routes or boulders?
Quote from: shark on November 03, 2021, 11:41:42 amSome old footage of Steve on Mutation resurrected by Posing ProductionsGlad my 5 minute grade appraisal of the upper wall stood the test of time.
Some old footage of Steve on Mutation resurrected by Posing Productions
Lots of good info on Mutation here:https://www.climber.co.uk/news/bosi-makes-historic-second-ascent-of-mutation-f9a-b/?fbclid=IwAR20dOVsZf7_pHagdQw812uFskvAKNwY-zxuNHHclzPNZgHVJFHnHK1qIe4
Interesting it mentions Nick's ascent of Evo as the third, I thought it was the second? Did someone else nip in for the second?