[i.munro]

D mac reckons that a factor in elbow problems is "Insufficient use of momentum in movement".
Now i'm fairly sure this applies to me as I climb like a sloth but slower.

So i've been trying to address this & the bit I seem to be struggling with is dynamic weight transfer ie foot/heel on a high hold & then rock over or up so the COG is higher but with no hand movement.

Seems fine on easy ground but when I'm struggling to get a foot on a high hold anyway how do I then drop down to get some momentum going? Is it a leg strength thing?

Any thoughts on how to work on this?

Thanks

[Kingy]

I'm not sure I totally agree that a factor in elbow injuries is insufficient use of momentum in movement. Is he suggesting that you dyno up static moves to save your elbows? Sounds a bit rum to me.

Anyway, to answer your question, I think your difficulty in the moves described derives from a relative lack of leg strength and not any issues surrounding 'momentum'. This all sounds a bit Dawes to me, what's wrong with a good old fashioned static lock and rockover? Practice high rockovers on vertical walls with very low handholds and you'll soon have legs of steel.

[slackline]

Pistols improve leg strength too.

If its the sort of move I'm thinking off, I find its often easier to rock over with your bum on your heel after you've got your foot/toe onto the hold.  Its then just a simple case of moving your knee downwards and your hips shift over moving your centre of gravity.  Of course all this is helped if your quite supple, so yoga or general streatching exercises will be of use here.

[i.munro]

I was playing on a move last night , long reach off two hands on a poor sloper &  & high foot & was convinced I simply wasn't strong enough. Then I tried it a bit faster & was able to easily 'flow' up the reach.

Trouble came when i tried the same move as part of the problem I couldn't seem to get any momentum going so it became a static rockover following which i was back to not being able to do the reach.

The gist being that I can (& usually do) these moves statically but I'm beginning to suspect it's limiting what I can do.

[The Sausage]

D mac reckons that a factor in elbow problems is "Insufficient use of momentum in movement".

I've never heard so much toss in my life. a)what does it mean, use of momentum? If you are stationary, you have no momentum. Is he theorising that you should never stop moving? b)how does this impact on elbow pain? Climbers' elbow pain is a multi-factorial problem related to posture, shoulder position, dynamic control of the head of the humerus, and some involvement of neural tissue and neurodynamics. As far as I know, it is extensively mis-diagnosed and there is no literature to support any particular cause. To come up with a statement like that is both idiotic and irresponsible.

[i.munro]

]

I've never heard so much toss in my life..

I should probably apologise to dave for quoting him out of context.
I only mentioned it because that comment started me thinking on a dull fri

FWIW i found it here
http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/elbowinjuries.html

[Kingy]

I think the technical term for this is 'BOLLOCKS'. 

To quote Dave on one of his 'causes' of elbow injuries: "Sloppy footwork – frequent slippage of feet leading to sudden overloading of elbows causing repeated micro-trauma".

Sounds like theorising beyond the evidence available. Where is the SCIENCE to back this statement up?

[robertostallioni]

[/quote]
I have recently caused  myself more

micro-trauma

going back to the 'old school' with Zippy on the Foundry C-Board than the last 10 years of

slippage of feet leading to sudden overloading of elbows

[joswald]

I've never heard so much toss in my life.

Has it occured to you to read a little far into it before jumping to conclusions? And that Dave Mac may have some basis for this statement?

[GCW]

It is likely that repetetively locking and stressing an elbow in full flexion is bad for the joint and surrounding soft tissues.

Bear with me here. 
If you consider campussing, you could essentially do a one armer, lock in full flexion, then reash statically to your next rung.  this involves high stress on the elbow in full flexion.
Alternatively, you could pull hard and initiate upwards movement, then use this momentum to continue height gain as you reach through to your next rung.  Strain is mostly applied to an extended elbow to initially flexion.

Of these two methods, I would suggest the latter is less likely to give elbow problems.  I suspect this may be what Dave is getting at, but I ain't going to start second guessing him.