[sasscotty]

Hello people!
Can somebody enlighten me on where this goes please? Zippy's traverse first right? then reverse jerry's traverse and do the little 7b problem at the end? or does it go further round the corner?
Also, is this a Steve Maclure problem? how many repeats has it had and any idea of the grade as it just says '8?' in the guide  ???

Thanks in advance 

Scotty

[Jaspersharpe]

Planetfear.com are reporting that Steve McClure has done a new link up on the Business boulder at the Stanage Plantation. It starts up Zippy's Problem, ignores the jugs going onto the big shelf, then finishs up where Ben's extension drops down. No grade yet.

From what I can see it gets 8B but as it's a big link up type thing it'll be in that grey area where nobody's really sure how to grade it I suppose.

[account_inactive]

Can I come and watch if you are going to do this Scott?

[cofe]

Zippy's traverse first right? then reverse jerry's traverse and do the little 7b problem at the end?

that's right i think. and jason's trav finished on the problem from the shelf to top. thought it got 8b or +, someone who thinks the business boulder is good might confirm. not heard of a repeat since steel maclure did it.

[sasscotty]

Can I come and watch if you are going to do this Scott?

yeah sure thing! I haven't been on it yet and usually long traverses dont work to my advantage with me having fock all stamina. But I'm feeling pretty psyched to get on it 

[account_inactive]

Brilliant!  I'll PM you my phone number.  Give me a bell when you are keen. I have a car and I'll bring Ben Pritchard with me as I know he would love to get some footage of you

All the best

[dave]

i think the fact troy mcclure went to the worst boulder at stanage and did a monster eliminate linkup for the fuck of it just goes to illustrate who much in reserve he's got. if rocking 8b or + was you're limit you just wouldn't bother with it. what a beast. plus this was like 7 years ago or something? crazee.

[r-man]

Never mind the business boulder, get on Voyager! You know you want to...

[cofe]

amen to that r-bloke.

[Paul B]

Zippy's traverse first right? then reverse jerry's traverse and do the little 7b problem at the end?

that's right i think. and jason's trav finished on the problem from the shelf to top. thought it got 8b or +, someone who thinks the business boulder is good might confirm. not heard of a repeat since steel maclure did it.

Cofe is on the money!
I've had a few sessions on this (before you start, I know) and flailed near the end using a sh*te sequence for Ben's Reverse. It's Ste Mc's, and I think its given Fnt8b although it climbs a lot more like a route.
I have to say that its a pretty dull problem and if you're brimming with psych scott there are a million and one things more worthy of your efforts.

[slackline]

I have to say that its a pretty dull problem and if you're brimming with psych scott there are a million and one things more worthy of your efforts.

Snatch (8a) should be up your street as its similar to The Joker (according to c.j.d)

[Jim]

They are both pretty shit problems.
Go get on something good

[dave]

standout shit to do for the 8b climber rocking an all-rounder talent vibe:

voyager+sitter
nik's wall (unrepeated 8a)
keen roof
high fidelity, caley
cypher, slipstones

the last 2 would would require a very early morning bike ride from sheffield thus should suit scotty.

[nik at work]

I'm not sure Niks Wall deserves to be put amongst quite such company.

(that's not to say you shouldn't go and do it mind...)

[dave]

it is unrepeated though, so would be newsworthy if done, more so than just knocking off the same 8as that everyone else does.

[Paul B]

They are both pretty shit problems.
Go get on something good

Cunt. 

Careless Torque should be added to that list... with Cypher featuring highly!

Anyway Scott I thought you'd dislocated (and then relocated) your finger or some shizzle?

[Doylo]

I'm not sure Niks Wall deserves to be put amongst quite such company.

I'll second that

[r-man]

Solomon's Seal? That hasn't been repeated? I haven't seen this, is it good?

Superbockckckc - still not seen a ground up ascent, despite moon and pearson getting close?

[Jim]

sorry paul, its not a great problem is it tho.....

I think solomons seal is massively morpho

[Paul B]

sorry paul, its not a great problem is it tho.....

err No...

[nik at work]

it is unrepeated though, so would be newsworthy if done, more so than just knocking off the same 8as that everyone else does.

There must be more unrepeated stuff out there shirley?
Solomons Seal
Superbloc
Ummm......

It would be good to get a list of all these unrepeated things together. I'm not talking about mutant Gaskins shnizzle but the stuff at say 7c and up?

[Ru]

CoB is Zippy's (no resting on the high flakes at the end), reverse Jerry's, finish up Ben's reverse (on the right side of the arete, not left).

Steve did Ben's reverse by reaching round the corner to the vertical crimp, then snatching up some poor slopers to the right of the arete to get into the pod. This was the redpoint crux. Point being that new beta for Ben's Reverse would affect the difficulty of this link considerably. I'm not sure what the current best beta is for Ben's Reverse

[cofe]

I'm not sure what the current best beta is for Ben's Reverse

that's the only beta i was aware of but i saw other thread with r-chap on about a RH pinch on arete etc.

[nodder]

Unrepeated stuff in wales:
The Pass
Jean Therapy v9
Twilight of the idols v9

The Ogwen
Kingdom of Pain v10
Repeat after me v10
Diamond eyes v9 (I think?)
This Parade v12
Smackhead Right v10
Nicks Groove sitter Caseg v9 (maybe?)
Full Punk traverse v11
Beef Thief Extension v10
The funk v10

The Randoms
Neon Handshake v12
Poppy's Move V12

[cowboyhat]

I thought Close of Business was Bens Traverse into Danny's Problem? Evidently not.

Steve did that too though right? What is it called?