[priscilla wimbush]

A quick search (Benchmark) has 'FS Ford Focus' as the most applicable thread, so I thought I'd quiz y'all instead of dredging the archives.
What problems are seen as the benchmark at the grade in all areas of the U.K? You can include Font as well since this is the home of our prefered grading system. I would expect that some areas will have a different baseline to others, yet I'm interested in the comparisons geographically.
Many problems could not be seen as benchmark if various methods, rules and morphology clouded the difficulty?

In context I'd like to draw upon this knowledge so as to classify my areas blocs in line with Font and the rest of the U.K. I reckon 2 or 3 problems per grade per area should help in this thankless task. What say you all?

[richdraws]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1892.0.html

that should get you started

[BenF]

Wow, that's certainly not a closed question.

 

[priscilla wimbush]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1892.0.html

that should get you started

Cheers Mr Draws - interesting thread there. I thought Percys comment is particularly apt. Maybe we could further split benchmarks into traverse/links and up problem status. One of each for each grade for each area?

[Jaspersharpe]

It's virtually impossible. Scrub that, it's impossible. Grades are so subjective and particularly so in bouldering where the tiniest difference in height / flexibilty / finger strengh / raw power etc can make one thing feel easy for one person and the living end for another. It's difficult enough getting people to agree 100% on the actual grade of most problems let alone getting agreement on what constitutes the benchmark at each grade. Sorry, this isn't helpful at all is it. It's just I can see how this thread might pan out! Good luck with it anyway. 

[priscilla wimbush]

It's virtually impossible. Scrub that, it's impossible. Grades are so subjective and particularly so in bouldering where the tiniest difference in height / flexibilty / finger strengh / raw power etc can make one thing feel easy for one person and the living end for another. It's difficult enough getting people to agree 100% on the actual grade of most problems let alone getting agreement on what constitutes the benchmark at each grade. Sorry, this isn't helpful at all is it. It's just I can see how this thread might pan out! Good luck with it anyway. 

  I like a challenge.
I appreciate that subjectivity is a large part of any grade decision making, yet we must be able to agree on a few benchmarks?
I'll give you some science thanks to YG - Remember that grades are/should be based on consensus.

Morrells wall - 6a (18/25 votes)
Flying arete - 6b (13/18 votes)
Dolphin belly slap - 7a (13/19 votes)
Demon wall roof - 7a+ (12/14 votes)
The Keel - 7c (10/13 votes)

I chose these at the cliff to highlight some consensus since they had good voting figures, and so the grade should be a better representation. I'm not trying to put them forward as benchmark though, just mooting a point.
Can't you think of any rough agreement on any problem grade in the Peak Jasper?

[Stubbs]

i'd agree with that list for good 'cliff benchmarks and they are some of the problems i usually think of when trying to grade other things (except the Keel  ).

however there are people that would tell you demon wall roof must be easier than 5+ as they failed on a slab that grade in font, but their massive hams made DWR rather easy     This is somewhat of an exageration, but it's these sort of personal strengths and weaknesses that make generic benchmarks difficult to agree on, unless the focus is tightened i.e 'benchmark 7a+ problem involving climbing out of a horizontal roof to crimps on the lip involving either a toe hook or a painful heel lock'.

[Kim]

Margaret? Margaret?!

[uptown]

Margaret? Margaret?!

[Jaspersharpe]

Do you have anything a bit more piratey?

[andy_e]

Flying arete - 6b (13/18 votes)


Benchmark 7b+, it took me longer to do than Underhand.

[Jaspersharpe]

That's using the 8a.nu grading system. Good work.

[richdraws]

Morrells wall is 7a atleast.
Dolphin Belly Slap is about 6c.

These are how they feel to me anyway.

[andy_e]

Hell no. Morrell's Wall is uk 5b and Dolphin Belly Slap feels much harder than DWR to me.

[Zods Beard]

Whereas to me Dolphin Belly Slap is much easier, oh the confusion.

[Jim]

dwr is very soft at 7a+, barely 7a in my book so not benchmark IMHO

[BenF]

In the task of grading three problems at Almscliff, I see we're approaching consensus then... 

I may add something useful if I get the chance later.  However, my local crag is Pex so don't listen to a word I say on grades there.

[Andy F]

We never listen to a word you say on anything Ben