[SA Chris]

New thread about the what is out there, waiting, rock and surf wise (preferrably close together).

220bpm you seem to be a man with good knowledge too.

The article about ferry fares for starters.

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/scotland/highlands_and_islands/7676715.stm

[andy_e]

I'd like to see if there are any good Lewisian Gneiss to boulder on in Lewis...

[GCW]

There's some decent problems in Dumfries and Galloway.  Coolboy and myself spent a fait bit of time at The Thirlstane and Sandyhills bay.  Coolboy did Marie's Massive Mangoes, 7a, which is ace, plus loads of other stuff. 
We also did a neat trio of problems at the Thirstane which have never been documented.  Traverses of the right wall:
1.  SDS traverse slopey break, then stay really low to the arete and up this font 6c+ (FA Coolboy).  A vid of Coolboy falling off it at 6:30 here:


2.  Same start but stay a little higher on crimps etc between the breaks, about 6c+.
3.  Same again but go up and only use the thin break for hands.   One of mine and prob 7a, but quite frustrating.

[lagerstarfish]

Good bouldering sport to be had doing daft eliminates on the bottom 20ft of the Etive Slabs. I spent a couple of days amusing myself there in the days before pads; should be a right laugh with modern landing gear.

[Johnny Brown]

I'd like to see if there are any good Lewisian Gneiss to boulder on in Lewis...

there is an amazing bunch of very tall, thin ones near callanish.

seriously though, there would be lots i'm sure, though a bit like welsh bouldering it would likely take a lot of development and require some blinkers.

[SA Chris]

I'd like to see if there are any good Lewisian Gneiss to boulder on in Lewis...

http://routes.scottishclimbs.com/viewcrag.php?area=5&crag=73

This is not the same Reiff as the other Reiff btw. Also at Europie in the north tip (possibly the beach with the biggest swell window in the UK?).

Also some good looking stuff around the NW ;Oldshoremore (with good surfing) and Sandwood Bay, which is a bit of a walk, but excellent surfing.

[SA Chris]

Good bouldering sport to be had doing daft eliminates on the bottom 20ft of the Etive Slabs. I spent a couple of days amusing myself there in the days before pads; should be a right laugh with modern landing gear.

There are also a couple of smaller actual boulders along the shore from the parking developed by Cubby.

[220bpm]

First off, I know hee haw about surfing, so I'll just stick to any coastal stuff that springs to mind 

Starting down Dumfries way, there is the Criffel boulder field here : http://www.streetmap.co.uk/newmap.srf?x=294500&y=559500&z=120&sv=294500,559500&st=4&ar=N&mapp=newmap.srf&searchp=newsearch.srf&lm=0

No guide exists (as far as I know) and your unlikely to find many chalked holds around. A venue for exploring new ground amongst the huge boulder field.

Arran, cor blimey me old cheesecake  A fookin delight that place. A smattering of roadside boulders round the perimeter road with the rare delight of HGV's and tour coaches as objective hazards should you need to bail  Good fun whilst investigating the island. There are a couple of other huge ass boulders 5 min from the road, much nicer. Best of all were the boulders we found whilst in Glen Sannox whilst on the way up to Cioch na h-Oighe for some trad. The razor sharp granite crystals shred fingers in no time. Glen Rosa is much the same.....



The Coire Lagan delights are fairly well documented, but personally, I'd find it too weird to head into one of the finest rock amphitheatres in the UK with a boulder mat  Theres a huge new boulder under the main cliff of The Storr after a significant rock fall a couple of years ago. Nasty landing though. Carn Liath was quite dirty and bad landings to boot. My mate pulled off a huge flake which only just missed his head as both parties followed the law of gravity. Good technical problems tho and a big big area to explore, only been the once and maybe we didn't see the best of it (mostly up near the main cliff face). Raasay might repay some exploration, been meaning to get across there for a while now 

Mull, brilliant and beyond, as per previous post here : http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10322.0.html

Rum - just go explore the coasts and high corries, you'll see what I mean

Back on the mainland still going north, we head past some better known areas such as Applecross, Torridon, Reiff in the Woods (small but excellent), Sandwood Bay (been but not bouldered, sounds good and the surf should have possibilities?)

Outer Hebrides - much to my shame, humiliation and embarrassment I've never actually got my shit together to head out that way. Definately high in the priority stakes though. Judging by various photos and reports from others who have been, there are a few areas which have been documented but serious exploration is likely to pay dividends.

I've also eyed up a few erratics in some seriously remote locations in the NW which I've not heard mentioned by anyone else. Fuck all good for the surfing right enough, but just thought I'd mention it 

What about Arisaig, Kintyre etc? I've not spent much time out those directions.

Look forward to hearing more from the UKB massive.

[Pantontino]

I grabbed a quick afternoon session in Coire Lagan last week (was up on Skye on a family holiday). Enjoyed it - Snake Attack is brilliant! First time I'd been into the Coire since 1984! Such a beautiful and atmospheric place, especially with the mountains all dusted with snow.



Checked out the sandstone crag at Elgol - a funky place, that would appeal to those who like Craig Dorys. Bonnie Prince Charlie's cave wasn't quite what I was expecting - no wonder he didn't hang around for long.



Elgol (looking towards the Cuillins - somewhere in the clouds across the water)



Elgol



Elgol



Elgol (Bonnie Prince Charlie cave area)



Knock Castle



Tarskavaig



Talisker

[andy_e]

Snake Attack is brilliant!

Hear hear.

Elgol

Our group collectively jizzed when we saw this erosion. Awesome. Don't suppose you saw any sunsets?

[lagerstarfish]

I've had a couple of good sessions bouldering on the tors on top of Ben Avon (Gorms). Long walk in, but you get the crag to yourself.

[SA Chris]

I believe that locally they are not tors, but barns?

They are nice, shame the rock is so variable.

[220bpm]

I've had a couple of good sessions bouldering on the tors on top of Ben Avon (Gorms). Long walk in, but you get the crag to yourself.

Impressive stomp for a boulder session 

I managed to proper scare myself on the ones atop Bynack More. Got up, just, in my walking boots but thought I was gonna have to call mountain rescue to get back down. Settled for some big air and hoped nothing snapped upon landing. Lucky lad.......

[SA Chris]

For a good stomp and boulder, the boulders at the foot of the Shelterstone (the Cairngorm one) are very impressive.

[granticus]

New thread about the what is out there, waiting, rock and surf wise (preferrably close together).

Word!  Nice work Chris...  I was just about to start this thread myself but been as I know sod all about Scotland, so I'm not much use.  However, I am super keen for an exploratory bouldering and surfing expedition.

I'd find it too weird to head into one of the finest rock amphitheatres in the UK with a boulder mat

220.... I'd have no quarms whatsoever! 

Outer Hebrides - much to my shame, humiliation and embarrassment I've never actually got my shit together to head out that way. Definately high in the priority stakes though. Judging by various photos and reports from others who have been, there are a few areas which have been documented but serious exploration is likely to pay dividends.

Outer Hebs- is definitely ticking all my boxes,  I'm feeling the remoteness, I'm feeling the potential for exploration and I know that if there's swell these islands are gonna fire up some delicious waves..

http://www.hebrideansurf.co.uk/Hebsurf/Left_Bowl.htm

So when we going then???

[Johnny Brown]

Hear hear.

Quote from: Pantontino on Today at 03:43:02 pm
Elgol



Our group collectively jizzed when we saw this erosion. Awesome. Don't suppose you saw any sunsets?

c'mon andi, that's weathering not erosion. nice place.

[andy_e]

Weathering, erosion, same difference, it's all unimportant in the grand scheme of things,it's all gonna be flowing out into the hebridean basin anyway...

[lagerstarfish]

I've had a couple of good sessions bouldering on the tors on top of Ben Avon (Gorms). Long walk in, but you get the crag to yourself.

Impressive stomp for a boulder session 

Had a top day where I took my snowboard and rock boots out with me. First lift up Cairngorm, short walk and board down to Loch Avon, looked at shelterstone boulders (too cold). Then walked up to the barns/tors on top of Ben Avon for a spot of bouldering. Walked and boarded down to the loch again, walked to top of Sneachta and boarded down the goat track. Ace.
Later on got very drunk and stoned and saw the Northern Lights 

*edit - it was end of March 1991*

[Mike Lee]

Some people seemed interested in Mull, here some pics from my trip there last year. Wasn't really a climbing trip though.

couple pieces of steepness near Loch Buie






Erraid DWS


Fidden

[richieb]

Nice Mike, Erriad seems all the rage at the moment. I reckon its gonna be mobbed next year....

From the stuff Ive seen so far, the big four in terms of sheer volume of boulders are Shelterstone, Carn Liath, Ben Alligin and Glencoe Lost Valley. Standard disclaimers about long walks and bad landings (mostly) apply.
None of which are near any surfing of course.

What we really need is a list of places that look really promising from a distance or on the map but in reality dont tick any of the required boxes.
A miniguide maybe? 'Places not worth walking in to check out in Scotland cos someone else has already been and theres nowt worth doing'   




 

[GCW]

I've bouldered at the Shelterstone boulders, oddly disappointing.
The Lost Valley has some good lines, but it's quite limited in number.  Some good steep stuff needing doing too.
Carn Liath is a great place to explore.

[lagerstarfish]

Mike, what are those slabs at Fidden like?

[SA Chris]

http://routes.scottishclimbs.com/routes.php

Some good info here, but sadly the SoC bullshit hasn't been weeded out. I'm sure the rock is there though.

[lagerstarfish]

http://routes.scottishclimbs.com/routes.php

Some good info here, but sadly the SoC bullshit hasn't been weeded out. I'm sure the rock is there though.

I like to think of SoC as "The OC" which, by chance, is the name of a soap opera with little in common with reality.

Ta fo' link.

[Mike Lee]

Mike, what are those slabs at Fidden like?

For what they are (ie slabs and vertical walls with no holds), they're amazing. Really great setting too.

[SA Chris]

What we really need is a list of places that look really promising from a distance or on the map but in reality dont tick any of the required boxes.
A miniguide maybe? 'Places not worth walking in to check out in Scotland cos someone else has already been and theres nowt worth doing'  

Has onyone ever tried setting up a personalised google map like drtopo do? http://www.drtopo.com/guidebooks/usa/California.

I would have a go myself but I am pretty crap at that sort of thing, and don't have a google account.

[andy_e]

I started setting one up for yorkshire but gave up after I realised there were 4 billion crags. I'd gladly set one up for the hebrides if someone sent me the knowledge and where stuff is etc.

[andy_e]

Right, I've started one to which anyone can add their knowledge. Perhaps using different colour markers for bouldering/surfing/routes/breweries would be a good idea?

[SA Chris]

Good work Andi, I had just figure out how to do similar on one. How do I add info to yours though, or edit (Sandwood Bay eg) do I need to a contributor or something?

[220bpm]

Right, I've started one to which anyone can add their knowledge. Perhaps using different colour markers for bouldering/surfing/routes/breweries would be a good idea?

Quality, I'm up for some contribution on this. Echoing Chris, how do I join in?

Sandford bay, Copire Lagan....good lord 

[andy_e]

watchoo on about fool, never been to copire lagan? 

To edit i think you need to have a googlemail account or similar, if you do then you can click on the "edit" link. There's also an "import" link so you can import other things from other maps.

[SA Chris]

Andi, when I open yours I don't have an edit option, but do on one that I have created. I think you need to click the "colaborate" button and invite us, ticking both the boxes.

I have PMed you my email address.

[andy_e]

Consider it Dunne. I've set it so that collaborators can invite people too. I've been going with blue for bouldering, red for surfing and yellow for other niceties.

[SA Chris]

Cool, that works! 220bpm , send an email address to me or andi. Richieb, I have yours.

[andy_e]

Pumped some with info and added a few bits of Skye accommodation data.

[SA Chris]

Stuck in some MTB trail centres too.

[granticus]

   Whoooaaaaaa!  Good work people! Waddage to one and all.  I am commencing plans for a spring trip to Scotland ASAP.

Perhaps this could become a UK wide project???

Any info. on reef breaks, points etc.. would also be most welcome...

[SA Chris]

All the break knowledge thus far is based on personal experience, hence the lack of gnarly reefs and points. That info can be extracted from alternative sources though.

It could go countrywide, but the further south you go, the more readily available the info becomes. Feel free to add stuff not documented elsewhere though, but don't give too much away!

[granticus]

I may be able to glean some info. from other sources regarding reef breaks in Scotland, the obvious famous ones are Thurso East, Brimms Ness and Baggies all around Thurso on the north coast.  Will have a dig and see what I can find out. Apparently there are some excellent breaks in the Orkneys, not sure on the bouldering potential though?

How do I contribute?

It could go countrywide, but the further south you go, the more readily available the info becomes. Feel free to add stuff not documented elsewhere though, but don't give too much away!

Yeah.  Plenty of info. as you come further South to a point and then things get all fuzzy again.  I would be happy to share info. on coastal bouldering locations around North Devon but perhaps not on surf spots, like you say don't give too much away....

[andy_e]

Send me or chris your e-mail address and we'll add you as a collaborator which means you can add your beta. This is starting to look good! I love the little bike symbols!

[SA Chris]

I may be able to glean some info. from other sources regarding reef breaks in Scotland, the obvious famous ones are Thurso East, Brimms Ness and Baggies all around Thurso on the north coast.  Will have a dig and see what I can find out. Apparently there are some excellent breaks in the Orkneys, not sure on the bouldering potential though?

All the N Coast surf stuff is pretty well documented in other publications. Info on Orkneys is a bit thin on the ground, but there's some nice looking stuff on the Shetlands

www.climbshetland.co.uk

[SA Chris]

220bpm, Mike Lee, granticus, pm me an email addrwess if you want to contribute. I'm fast reaching limits of my knowledge, short of regurgitating guidebooks.

[220bpm]

Hey Chris, I sent my details to andi_e who has added me to the list, and signed up for a google mail account last night. Guess I'll have to send the new e-mail addy so I can access it.

Nice work so far 

[Mike Lee]

http://www.davemacleod.com/articles/scottishclimbing.html

Good reads for anyone planning a trip.

[andy_e]

This has gone a bit dry recently- Chris has probably exhausted his due to the immense amounts of knowledge he's added, and I've been really busy of late, anyone else got anything to add? I could probably add a few more bits and bobs if I find the time.

[granticus]

I will be adding some reefs and such to the surfin info., that I have gleaned, when I have a spare moment.. However, I'm off to Tanzania and Kenya soon so may have to wait for my return.

[220bpm]

I've lobbed a few things on over the last week or so, and still got plenty more to add, but as Chris said how far it is reasonable to take it before it becomes a case of regurgitating guidebooks?

Pretty swamped with other incidental shit such as www.lfs.net/ Crimbo nights out, the W thing and inconsiderate bastard mates having babies and such like 

I'll pad out (pun intended  ) the central belt stuff some more, Arran and maybe a couple of my 'tip-top supersecret I'd tell ya but I'd have to kill ya' type project boulders I have in my wee black book. Might also add some extra narrative to the existing areas where no forwarding link is available.

Plenty to go at yet!

[SA Chris]

Good stuff. One mans backyard is another one's mission, so any info is good i reckon.

Don't give away anything you are keeping close, except to me . But it's purely up to you.

[andy_e]

Things are looking good now- as if a load of cyclists are trying to avoid a rain of pins...