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good,hard and safe route recomendations (Read 4003 times)

mark s

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good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 02:48:41 pm
anyone got any good but safe routes they recomend to try/do.especially on the east side.dont want anything we're going to die or bounce on,those days are gone.the sort of routes you dont mind throwing yourself at.
got a few from the west that are hard but safe.
stall,gib tor. one move jump from a rounded boss to a rail.very safe
northern comfort.long reachy boulder prob in the sky.safe fall out.
would say thumbillina to wind andi up but he has to hold my ropes.

dave

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#1 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 02:53:17 pm
childrens house, cratcliffe?
clock people, millstone?
lost world, carl wark?

slackline

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#2 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 02:55:49 pm
This may be of use, and if its not you can always update it with more accurate information after the event  :lol:

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#3 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 03:02:40 pm
There are loads surely....and more again in Yorkshire....just look for E5/6 6c/7as....

mark s

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#4 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 03:06:58 pm
childrens house, cratcliffe?

this is one we've mentioned.last time me and andi were at cratcliff we mused about gettin on genocide but it looked bloody hard and you are going be close to the ledge if you stuffed it up.

mark s

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#5 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 03:10:56 pm
There are loads surely....and more again in Yorkshire....just look for E5/6 6c/7as....
there is a lot of crap out there tho.plus you know how me and andi dont venture out of staffs,passports out of date
by e5 do you mean v6 or f7b+ or 5-12.d. also depends on what frame of mind you're in. ;D

grimer

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#6 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 03:38:53 pm
Genocide doesn't feel too scary as you get safely up to the last move and have lots of time to think about it and reverse to the ground. Childrens House felt impossible to me, and a bit shit. The two may be linked.

Moon Crack, Forbidden Planet?

andy popp

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#7 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 04:00:11 pm
I've fallen off Genocide loads, its fine. Forbidden Planet feels a bit pokey. How about Moonshine? Certainly fits the bill.

dave

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#8 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 04:13:35 pm
hey mark, hows about Elder Crap, i.e. the "solution" to the elder crack arete? should suit the tall gent if you've got 4 ropes.

mark s

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#9 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 04:17:36 pm
I've fallen off Genocide loads, its fine.
will try next time we're up there.

were you part of the f.a on sunday at chapel,looks fooking tough.

grimer

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#10 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 04:28:12 pm
Bat out of Hell, and while i haven't done them, the left and right aretes of the block should fit the bill perfect
Offspring
Lost World, as dave said
Perfect Day
Snug as a Thug on a Jug

Bonjoy

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#11 Re: good,hard and safe route recomendations
November 04, 2008, 04:37:34 pm
Mickey Fin - Gardoms - A bit reachy, very safe, soft E6 6b apparently. The nearby The Igloo is a very safe soft E5 6b
Pulsar Direct, Linkline and Block n Tackle - Higgar - All very safe burly E6
Camel Hot, Discombobulator - Black Rocks - The former is oft green, but supposed to be safe soft E6. The latter is a clean safe bouldery E5 6c
Monster Monster, Beyond the Forbidden Forest - eatswood - Two well safe E5 6b roofy things. Both my routes, they haven't had loads of traffic but stay totally clean and unscrittly anyway (as do most routes here.)
Moolah and New Mediterranean - Rivelin - The same set of good Rps and a Bomber friend 0 protect both routes.
Bad News For Slab Climbers - Bauston Tor - Brilliant hidden gem. An esoteric Strapadictomy but longer and tougher. Start is a bit spooky on an old peg but pretty easy, then its bomber gear to a slight runout at the end.

All these are on the new gritlist wiki (linked to earlier in thread), complete with gear beta. If people add their knowledge to it it could become really useful.  

 

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