UKBouldering.com

Route cleaning swap thread - you brush mine, I'll brush yours... (Read 2900 times)

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13524
  • Karma: +687/-68
  • Whut
An idea inspired by something Goosejoy wrote to me, agreeing with the problem of routes falling into neglect and requiring cleaning - but one's aversion to spoiling the onsight journey by abbing down oneself.

The idea of course is simple: Post up routes and highballs you want cleaned, and post up those you have cleaned, and in particular if you clean something someone has asked for, hopefully they will return the favour. Or at least people will climb cleaned routes and keep them clean.

Here's a few I'm after for starters:

Churnet Valley:

Doina D'Jal / The Brazilian @ Stoney Dale Rock - brilliant arete, needs a real good scrub.

Brimham:

Whitewash - Good looking slab, needs a thorough scrub.

Senior Service - nice looking slab (a Nidderdale Boulderer route tick), needs a bit of a scrub.

Northumberland:

Any mid-grade classics @ Ravensheugh - all really green.

Any mid-grade classics @ Simonside - ditto.



Cleaned last summer:

Dance Of The Flies E2 5c **, Stoney Dale Quarry, Churnet - neat little face climb, returning to green a bit but still climbable.


Bonjoy

Offline
  • *****
  • Global Moderator
  • forum hero
  • Leafy gent
  • Posts: 9956
  • Karma: +563/-9
Requests:
Camel Hot, Slanted and Enchanted and Untoward - Black Rocks
Spanish Fly - Gardom's

Oli

Offline
  • ***
  • obsessive maniac
  • Posts: 359
  • Karma: +4/-1
Cleaned: Teddy Bear's Picnic, Paddington, Aira Boira - Rivelin Quarries

Request: Flex and the route to the righr - R. Quarries again.

Houdini

Offline
  • *****
  • forum hero
  • Posts: 6497
  • Karma: +233/-38
  • Heil Mary
(All of Drws Nodded, Ogwen, is desperate for cleaning.

Ghostrider is awesome but utterly filthy.  20 years filthy.  Shame, no-one climbs these welsh classics.) 

AndiT

Offline
  • ****
  • forum abuser
  • Posts: 666
  • Karma: +33/-3
I like the idea.

Fiend, The Brazillian/Doin Da J'al, this is always in the same state, it's still climbable in its state, honest. When we climbed it a few years ago it probably hadn't been climbed for ten years but was still fine. Probably worth cleaning off the top hold though as it gets soily. Go and do the boulder problem arete in the adjacent quarry first to assess the conditions and then go for it, it's well good.

Fiend

Offline
  • *
  • _
  • forum hero
  • Abominable sex magick practitioner and climbing heathen
  • Posts: 13524
  • Karma: +687/-68
  • Whut
Andi, I take it you're not volunteering for that one then ;).

I went down there for a look two weeks ago, and to my eyes it was unclimbably dirty - the lower arete was mossy and the upper arete very green. There's no way I could go near it in that state. But hey ho someone might do it or maybe I will eventually. Such a good line.

Bonjoy & Oli - duly noted.

napalm_life

Offline
  • *
  • newbie
  • Posts: 28
  • Karma: +0/-0
(All of Drws Nodded, Ogwen, is desperate for cleaning.

Ghostrider is awesome but utterly filthy.  20 years filthy.  Shame, no-one climbs these welsh classics.) 

Have you done this route, what sort of state is it in? It looks awesome in the guide, but if its really that dirty it may be a bit out of my league.

 

SimplePortal 2.3.7 © 2008-2024, SimplePortal