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New E8 For Yorkshire (Read 7591 times)

Adam Lincoln

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New E8 For Yorkshire
November 01, 2008, 07:49:28 pm
Today Jordan Buys made the first ascent of 'The French Duke' at Earl Crag. It's one of the last great's in Yorkshire, and takes the arete to the right of Mind Bomb. It's taken him a while and needs top conditions. If the gear holds it should be pretty safe, but it's dubious. Climbing comes down to a few moves of about font 7c/+. Jordan thought E8 7a would be a suitable grade. It was well photographed and video was had, which should be up on Posing Productions website in a few days.....
« Last Edit: November 01, 2008, 07:57:45 pm by Adam Lincoln »

SA Chris

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#1 Re: New E8 For North Yorks
November 01, 2008, 07:55:12 pm
Excellent news, good effort, plum line.

(Is it North Yorks though?)

Adam Lincoln

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#2 Re: New E8 For North Yorks
November 01, 2008, 07:58:18 pm
Excellent news, good effort, plum line.

(Is it North Yorks though?)

Who knows! (Changed to Yorkshire.)

Will Hunt

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#3 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 01, 2008, 08:03:59 pm
Really don't know how these wads can climb so hard when its so cold. Sure, you don't sweat but I was at Earl today and got a touch of the hot aches after seconding a friend on Tiger's Wall. Then fell off Sour Grapes cos I couldn't feel what I was pulling on which was a bit rubbish really as I think with more feeling I might have got it.
Well done, Jordan.

uptown

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#4 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 01, 2008, 08:54:04 pm
Effort! Plum line and one of yorks lgp's falls.

nik at work

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#5 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 01, 2008, 09:02:26 pm
Effort.
Is the wall right of this a goer?

Adam Lincoln

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#6 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 01, 2008, 11:29:27 pm
Effort.
Is the wall right of this a goer?

Yes, very hard and very bold.... Being tall will help.

Bonjoy

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#7 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 03, 2008, 11:23:47 am
Effort!
Gib will be gutted (or relieved)!

Shy Yorkshireman

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#8 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 03, 2008, 01:41:32 pm
Both!

Shy Yorkshireman

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#9 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 03, 2008, 01:56:32 pm
Nice One Jordan. I always knew this day would come! Really hard route to get conditions on. I can say of my 20 plus trips to earl over the last 5 years, of half it was unclimbable.  i only managed it in a oner a few times and never got it wired enough, manly cos i'm shit. But also it kind of never felt the same twice. Did he climb it on the left or the right? I was dynoing round the arete and finishing on the right! I thought E9 7a if you must know! depends how he finshed. Look forward to seeing the video. Some you win some you lose!

Adam Lincoln

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#10 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 03, 2008, 07:15:02 pm
Did he climb it on the left or the right? I was dynoing round the arete and finishing on the right! I thought E9 7a if you must know! depends how he finshed. Look forward to seeing the video. Some you win some you lose!

He got to good jugs, then left hand up to sidepull sloper, via a pebble, feet up, and up to pinch with right hand, adjusted feet, then up to pinch, turn to gupy, heals on(both) then up to a bad pinch with left hand, pop right right then up to jug. Done.

Adam Lincoln

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#11 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 05, 2008, 01:41:58 pm
Jordan has changed his mind, and in hindsight, has opted to grade it E9 7a.

andy popp

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#12 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 05, 2008, 02:26:46 pm
Jordan has changed his mind, and in hindsight, has opted to grade it E9 7a.

It never sounded very E8. Am keen to see some pictures, haven't been to Earl very much and I can't visualize the line.

uptown

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#13 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 06, 2008, 01:43:29 pm
video was had, which should be up on Posing Productions website in a few days.....

Up now on the site. Looks very good.

https://www.posingproductions.com/video.php?form_action=play&video_id=145

cofe

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#14 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 06, 2008, 02:00:16 pm
looks excellent. nice one jordan.

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#15 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 06, 2008, 02:01:22 pm
Good video. That gear looks distinctly un-bomber. Boy needs to get some ballnuts.

<<< download link.

Bonjoy

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#16 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 06, 2008, 02:06:28 pm
It does look like you might get a decent ballnut in there.

SA Chris

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#17 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 06, 2008, 02:29:28 pm
You've got to love the "nest of gear" and the adrenalin fuelled gush. Great stuff.

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#18 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 06, 2008, 07:53:15 pm

Paul B

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#19 Re: New E8 For Yorkshire
November 14, 2008, 06:14:41 pm
Has anyone else seen "Hanging Tough - top free climber and Maximuscle user Aid Baxter on how to get peak fitness..."

Maximuscle Advert.... :great:

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#20 Re: New E8 For North Yorks
November 21, 2008, 07:43:55 pm
Excellent news, good effort, plum line.

(Is it North Yorks though?)

Excelent line, good effort.

Chris, yep Earl is in North Yorkshire.

 

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