Hey Krank,
Sorry for the short change answer on UKC, a bit blasé.
I don't have the mental energy to two-finger-type about training, especially after training.
After 15 years of near daily climbing my recovery rate is now pretty good.
Pair this with the fact that lately I only have time to get down the wall 2-3 times a week.
If I do go to failure at the mo' I'm fully recovered by next session.
Lots of other good threads on here relevant to training intensity.
Just rest and eat and go to the wall, drink lots of coffee, say no to drugs etc etc......
Sorry this has descended into another blasé answer.....
