[Adam Lincoln]

Stone circles article made them look amazing and some good pics on Yorkshire grit. Anyone been lately, is it likely to be ok tomorrow or green? Any other tips or stuff would be cool.

[andy_e]

Conditions would be ok, not to green as it's quite exposed at the hunter stone, X wall might be quite green though.
As for other tips, go and do every problem, even the easy ones are awesome!

[Adam Lincoln]

Went today, not to keen on easier stuff but Hunters roof is one of the best problems in Yorkshire, amazing! Footage to follow....

Pic from Yorkshiregrit.com

[Adam Lincoln]

...

[Adam Lincoln]

Another pic of one of the best problems in Yorkshire

[Steve R]

nice pic.  I know it's near almsliff in stainburn forest, is it obvious where to park?  any more info online other than yorks'grit site?  keen to check it out tmrw.

[Adam Lincoln]

nice pic.  I know it's near almsliff in stainburn forest, is it obvious where to park?  any more info online other than yorks'grit site?  keen to check it out tmrw.

From Otley, follow signs out North towards Pately Bridge. Keep going till you pass a resevoir, then keep going up the hill till you get trees on both sides of you. Then at the top of a hill, a forestry gate is on your right, park there. Walk up to the Pilon, then head towards the boulder with the monument on top of it. Thats the main stuff. The stuff in the woods, just go to V10 nose, then follow path to woods. Follow it down, along the wall and through the trees, when you get to a clearing with a small boulder, in the trees is the hard Xcaliber block. 

Anything else you need to know? Hope you have plenty if skin, it's savage!

Its also in Stone circles, climber magazine, around April this year i think.

[Steve R]

Thanks alot for the directions

Anything else you need to know?

not for now but will probably be asking for beta on the roof when I get shut down by it

Hope you have plenty if skin, it's savage!

hmmm, skin's ~60% right now so might hang on a bit at that rate!

[Adam Lincoln]

Thanks alot for the directions

Anything else you need to know?

not for now but will probably be asking for beta on the roof when I get shut down by it

Hope you have plenty if skin, it's savage!

hmmm, skin's ~60% right now so might hang on a bit at that rate!

Ill be uploading a video tomorrow of how NOT to do the last move  Instead, tearing a big flapper.....

[TomP]

I'm so pleased you enjoyed it Adam . I have to agree that Hunter's Roof is a top quaility problem. There are two finishes to the roof....the best is to finish in the crack but there is the shorter (and not as good) version heading up the left side of the nose. Most of the good probelms are in the higher grades: The roof, Shothole wall, Lockdown, X-Calibre SDS in particular but there are some really good easier classics like this:

The photo probably doesn't do it justice.
Mnemonic ans sohcahtoa are good ones too.

As it getting a bit oof traffic a lot of the problems are settling down nicely. Believe me, when I first went there it was pretty dirty, sharp and gritty!

How did you get on with the X Block. I saw Stubbs who said it was pretty green over the weekend and it can be hard to see the holds on some problems. Let me know if you want me to give you some beta on anything. There's still a few problems which are un-repeated.

[Adam Lincoln]

How did you get on with the X Block. I saw Stubbs who said it was pretty green over the weekend and it can be hard to see the holds on some problems. Let me know if you want me to give you some beta on anything. There's still a few problems which are un-repeated.

Hi Tom, me and Jordan both fell going to jug at end of problem, tired, and no skin by the time we had worked out what to do! I also did xcalibre stand, which is probably 7b+ not 7c like in stone circles. Jordan also did the 7a arete. Was all getting a bit dark by then so footage didnt come out. Did get loads on the roof an other stuff though, which ill put up soon. Prob go back next week to finish roof.....

[TomP]

I'd be keen to see your footage. I was up there with El Mocho once and his friend got some good footage of him doing the roof in excellent static style too. His friend also managed to capture the FA of X-Calibre SDS RH (dyno version), which I reckon is 8b. I'll try to get hold of both vids.

X-Calibre stand-up is a wierd one. I first did it jumping with LH to the X then a big cross over with RH to the holds left, the reason being this is what you have to do for the SDS. It's also a very satisfying cross through! However, it is easier going with your RH first and matching the X hold. Which method did you use?

Haven't been there for ages so you're welcome to PM when you're thinking of going and I could meet you there.

[TomP]

Just found footage of the first time I did X-Calibe RH (dyno version) stand-up. Can I upload Quicktime vids.....if not, how do I upload it? Cheers

[SA Chris]

http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,9976.msg165875.html#msg165875

Can you put it here?

[TomP]

Gave it a go but it won't let me upload .mov files. Tried changing it to mp3 but I need to download the codec which I cannot do a t work. Any other suggestions? If not, I'll get a mate to sort it out - I'm shit a stuff like this anyway!

[SA Chris]

I'm shit too, clueless with that stuff, sorry.

[TomP]

No worries Chris. I have uploaded it to MSN Skydrive thingy but the file has to be downloaded unfortunately:

[slackline]

Gave it a go but it won't let me upload .mov files. Tried changing it to mp3 but I need to download the codec which I cannot do a t work. Any other suggestions? If not, I'll get a mate to sort it out - I'm shit a stuff like this anyway!

Converting to mp3 wouldn't work since a .mov is a movie format whilst .mp3 is a music format.  You might have meant .mp4 which is video.

Check out the Vimeo :UKBouldering.  Their help should explain everything you need to know to get your video uploaded.

[TomP]

Yeah ment mp4. I'll have another look and see if I can sort it cheers. Hope the vid is worth it, unfortunaletly it's not the SDS version but have that somewhere too.

[Adam Lincoln]

I'd be keen to see your footage. I was up there with El Mocho once and his friend got some good footage of him doing the roof in excellent static style too. His friend also managed to capture the FA of X-Calibre SDS RH (dyno version), which I reckon is 8b. I'll try to get hold of both vids.

X-Calibre stand-up is a wierd one. I first did it jumping with LH to the X then a big cross over with RH to the holds left, the reason being this is what you have to do for the SDS. It's also a very satisfying cross through! However, it is easier going with your RH first and matching the X hold. Which method did you use?

Haven't been there for ages so you're welcome to PM when you're thinking of going and I could meet you there.

Yeah they time i fell off end i was so tired i was campusing the last 3 moves!

As for X-calibre it was pop with the right hand, i didnt match and went all the way through to edges at top.

Ill let you know when we are going again, and ill try get video edited soon!

[TomP]

As for X-calibre it was pop with the right hand, i didnt match and went all the way through to edges at top.

That method is 7b+ for X-Calibre. It's prob around 7c for the LH way.....there's an awesome cross through to the small edge and then a pop for the big flatty.

Have uploaded the vid of X-Calibre Direct to Vimeo not great quality I'm afraid. Uploaded it to UKB group but promptly deleted it by accident so it's on my profile:


There's a vid of the SDS to this which the camera guy has but I can't get hold of him. It's up there with the hardest climbing I have done

[TomP]

After a recent visit here it's great to see that it's getting traffic. I'm not sure if it's the nature of the rock or over enthusiastic brushing but some problems are getting damaged. The trig boulder is quite gritty but has settled pretty well so I'd imaging damange here is just from climbing. However, I went to the X block and there are some holds on the 7a+ arete (By Hook or by Crook) and an 8a wall (Lockdown) that have appeared from nowhere, evidently from over-brushing.
I'm really pleased that this venue is receiving attention (although all of the hard probs on the X-Block are still unrepeated) but please be careful not to damage the rock.

[TomP]

Has anyone tried the sitter to X-Calibre, X-Calibre Direct or Lockdown (all on X-block wall)?

These are all unrepeated and I was hoping some wads may be interested in getting them done. I'm pretty confident on the grades now....X-Calibre, 8a+; X-Calibre Direct 8b and Lockdown, 8a (although one hold has improved with brushing). Hunter's is a lovely crag with plenty of decent hard lines. If you go for Hunter's roof alone it's more than worth it.

I'm hoping that this rain will stop and someone will use good conditions and leathery skin get the second ascents. I just think that some people may not consider these a problems to go at. I know the prospect of crimpy 8's doesn't sound too attractive to most but there must be a few potential ascentionists out there. I'm looking at you Woz for one of the potential candidates but I'm sure there are more out there!