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New Mills Tor Topos (Read 4312 times)

joswald

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New Mills Tor Topos
October 04, 2008, 06:46:57 pm
Any one got any topos for New Mills Tor bouldering?

Zods Beard

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#1 Re: New Mills Tor Topos
October 04, 2008, 07:29:12 pm
I've got one, but I currently use it as toilet paper.

dave k

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#2 Re: New Mills Tor Topos
October 05, 2008, 06:24:00 pm
I don`t think there is one- i guess in reality there is not that much there. Having said that i have spent alot of time over the years there and there are many eliminates. Here are the main problems that spring to mind. It is a good wet weather venue, but Wrights Rock is MUCH better!!

Starting from the Bionics wall end

1) Low traverse under bionics - v6 (either direction)
2) Up RHS of bionics block using side pull- with RH - v6
3) 2- eliminate- go straight from side pull to highest RH end of ramp- v8
4) Project- pull on two shit holds over lip - to ramp - v8/9 ish
5) Bionics wall direct start - v5 - v6 from sitting, (same just using LH on main hold-eliminate)
6) Up wall left of bionics direct start - v5 (eliminate)
7) 3 variants starts to Honcho- v4-5 ish- LH, middle, RH
8) Various starts to Viaduct wall- v3-v6
9) Problem between Viaduct wall and Viaduct crack- eliminate- no foot on ledge- uses thin pinch with RH (v5)
10) Dyno finish to problem 9 - up to half height ledge-commiting v7

Grim Reaper area

1) Traverse across - v5 - either direction
2) Direct start to Grimreaper (sit start)- dyno or balancy pop -v8 (last hold is often dirty)
3) LH end of grim reaper block- left of where traverse rises- v6ish problem- thin/sandy pull
4) Project -blank wall left of brick wall (right of grimreaper) - v10 ish - without using left arete very thin pulling and little for feet
5) Above with sandy left arete poor v4

6) Wall right of The Arete - has a few low start prolems - v2-6 - one dyno to thin holds at about v6

Alcove Crack area

1) Traverse across Piggy's wall- v2
2) Double dyno - back wall - low start to two holds on traverse across- v8
3) Traverse across back wall - v2
4) Project (v9ish)- back wall low start - up wall just right of alcove crack- very thin pulls and crucial heal - it will go

Then of course there is the whole traverse -

1) RH end to LH end - finishing as far left as you can go - v6
2) There and back - without having a picnic/cup of tea on the wall half way - v7
3) Including staying low under bionics wall - one way - about v7
                                                     - there and on return- v8 ish (but no resting)

Of course other strange eliminates have been done too.

 

 

 


 

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