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Ben Moon Tweets about 9a! (Read 21816 times)


yorkshireman

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#1 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 12, 2012, 11:59:19 pm
so esentially people think its 9a because Ondra says it could be as he couldnt do it?didnt ben make a song and dance years ago that hubble was 8c+ and so was action direct and that other routes were being overgraded?

Paul B

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#2 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 12:21:03 am
so esentially people think its 9a because Ondra says it could be as he couldnt do it?didnt ben make a song and dance years ago that hubble was 8c+ and so was action direct and that other routes were being overgraded?

That was possibly Simpson.

I think in general, benchmark routes tend to be hard for the grade. Espeically in 'Old Skool' areas, even more so when said route is bouldery.

saltbeef

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#3 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 12:27:18 am
no it was Ben and he wrote an article in ote (47ish), and there were comments from people like huber etc.
interesting reading.

yorkshireman

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#4 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 12:36:33 am
thought so.i think its possible that its just not really ondra's style,despite him being a good boulderer as well as route climber plus most people have spent way longer on hubble before doing it.its like he says with 3 degrees of seperation,he didnt do the crux dyno once so basically its just a move that didnt suit him so think hubble is probably similar.

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#5 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 04:40:51 am
It's entirely possible but grades are generally a guideline I find anyway I guess it depends on the style of the climbing and if it suites you or not either way as ondra says strong Britons!

T_B

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#6 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 08:57:42 am
The article is here http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=39015&utm_source=dlvr.it&utm_medium=twitter

It was Jerry who said "A year is a long time in climbing". 22 years on and Hubble is still repelling the world's best climbers.
« Last Edit: January 13, 2012, 09:04:26 am by T_B »

Fultonius

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#7 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 09:16:19 am
New sig required \/

Grubes

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#8 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 09:51:09 am
so esentially people think its 9a because Ondra says it could be as he couldnt do it?
There are not many people more qualified to give route grades at that level than young Master Ondra ...

so if he says 9a I would suggest most people would agree ...

slackline

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#9 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 10:00:46 am
There are not many people more qualified to give route grades at that level than young Master Ondra ...

so if he says 9a I would suggest most people would agree ...

Don't some people make a lot of noise about not being  able to give a route a proper grade assessment if you haven't actually climbed it? :clown:

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#10 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 10:12:01 am
Maybe we can have a quick show of hands, everyone who's not done hubble, and what grade you think it is?

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#11 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 10:20:31 am

I've not done Hubble but I've also not done Action Directe and comparing the two I'd say there isn't much between them so 9a for both.

dobbin

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#12 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 10:49:54 am
I'm saving hubble for the flash, so haven't actually been on it, but I did hold Keith Bradberg's ropes for an hour once (45 minutes of this was stripping it), and he couldn't do a move - or hold a position. And as he's climbed font 8B (numerous) then it can only mean that Hubble is at least font 8C. Therefore route 9d. At least.

I've also belayed the triple champ on it, and he couldn't do it either. Thus corroborating the 9d grade. I also heard that Beyonce gave birth this week, so perhaps the champ will now be back on top in the booty stakes.

Apparently, Carlisle Slapper did some of the moves once, apparently. But this could be internet rumour and intrigue. Perhaps the whinnying and stamping of hooves that usually accompanies his appearance on the internet will confirm or deny (along with some random statements which noone understands).

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#13 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 11:26:00 am
I haven't done either route, but simple logic says that Action Directe must be harder as it's further away.

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#14 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 11:31:33 am
On the other hand, my mum hasn't done it but has seen a photo.  She said "it's not very high is it?".  She then asked  "how did you get your rope up there?" and "do you know that french man who climbs buildings?".  I put these opinions into Ben Moon's supercomputer (during rare downtime from complex crystallographic modelling for the next generation of "Moon Dust (TM)" chalk).  After gigaflops of number crunching, the verdict is that Hubble is harder than anything I've climbed, but easier than Canary Wharf and Scafell Pike. 

SA Chris

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#15 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 11:36:00 am

I've not done Hubble but I've also not done Action Directe and comparing the two I'd say there isn't much between them so 9a for both.

I've not done both either, but thought Hubble was harder. However I didn't do AD over a year ago, whereas I didn't do Hubble recently, I think it was only last week.

And you we all know what they say about a year in climbing.......

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#16 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 11:42:22 am
Ive been to Raven Tor, Ive also been to Germany but I didnt see action direct, but Ive seen photos of it.  Ive also travlled exstensively to other areas where there are hard routes and seen a few of them so i know what Im on about
Hubbles defo harder for sure.

rich d

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#17 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 11:53:34 am
I will be puntering about on 6's at burbage south tomorrow. As these are not routes, not hard, and not at the same venue as either AD or Hubble I feel qualified to say they're definitely 9a.

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#18 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 12:14:29 pm
Action Direct is loads steeper than Hubble, its got shit loads of monos and rubbish slopey first joint pockets on it... and a huge move (dyno?) Hubble has got a couple of undercuts and thats about it... But its named after something so awesome thats its not even allowed on our planet.
Given these points I put forward the grades of AD=9a and Hubble 8c+ and suggest that Ben and Adam pipe the F down.

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#19 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 12:24:19 pm
It's not even got an E grade, so it can't be that hard.  Neither's Action Direct got an E grade and it's in Germany, so it's got to be easier since all the best trad climbers are from the UK.  Or Scotland.

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#20 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 12:46:22 pm
I've seen Hubble and Action Direct and can confirm that AD is clearly a lot better which isn't hard

moose

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#21 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 01:01:35 pm
Bringing this back to fundamentals, Action Direct vs Hubble is a matter of Apfelstrudel vs Bakewell Pudding.... with possible complications due to whether or not accompanying custard or cream enter the equation.   

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#22 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 01:02:40 pm
I've not even seen Hubble but I recently managed a circuit that I saw Malc Smith fall off. My hardest route is 7a+ so therefore Hubble must be 7a tops and Me > Ondra. To be fair to Malc he was on his 16th lap and I was breathing out of my arse getting round it once but I feel the point is still valid.

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#23 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 01:17:05 pm
My opinion, for what it's worth:

From extensive google research I have established the following to be pretty much uncontestable fact.

Hubble is a telescope floating in earth orbit taking pretty pictures of celestial bodies, including a particularly colourful one of the Crab Nebula.

Action Directe is a french revolutionary group responsible for assassination and violent attacks, including machine gunning french trade unionists in their headquarters.

Although we're comparing apples and pears here, it seems safe to say that Action Directe is much harder.

 :shit:

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#24 Re: Ben Moon Tweets about 9a!
January 13, 2012, 01:18:05 pm
pain aux raisin

 

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