[The Sausage]

I had a bit of a go on this yesterday... I was starting on the rail with my right heel on the good bit, rocking up with my right to the lower part of the press gaston (as a law-away, obviously), changing my right heel to a toe and locking up to the shitty under-cling with my left to join the stand up.

Does this sound about right? I can do the moves, but it seems awfully hard.

What about foot beta for Tsunami? Do you span up to the crimp then swing your heel up to the rail?

[(woz)]

I use a toe on the same hold, instead of a heel, for the move out left, then get left foot on a tiny edge, then slap LH to jug. I think the moon video demonstrates this quite well. For tsunami it depends on whether you are going for matching the sloper, or using the pocket. Either way, once both hands are at that level you can swing heel up, or use a toe edge lower down.

You should have set James and Stubbs on beta duty, and then casually stepped in for the flash. Still, you live and learn.

hope this helps...

[Andy Harris]

Hi Joe,
4 variants to Bigger splash direct.
1. stand up RH Press gaston, LH high undercut -7b/7b+
2. crouch from flat edge & pocket -7c
3. low right start from slot -hard 7c
4. low left from slot (Tsunami) -8a (easier if you use pocket and don't match sloper)

your foot sequence is right but for me when you have your right toe on the left foot position is crucial to make the move to the u'cut. Basically I flag under on one of 2 obvious edges with the left foot to stabilise the position. It is pully and hard of the move. Imagine if you had to do this after 10m of climbing (hmm, that gives me an idea. Maybe I could excavate downwards and create a bespoke hard route.

For the last bit you can use the original foot sequence on the tiny nubs or the newer holds on the rail as well.

I just read someone eliminating the u'cut. Matt Birch used to do this surely you gotta pull on that little u'cut. It's the essence of Rubicon

enjoy

[dave]

1. stand up RH Press gaston, LH high undercut -7b/7b+

for what its worth I think this is way harder than the press.

[nathan wind]

tried the low right version of this (from the slot) earlier this year and thought it was nails, did all the moves but couldn't link it.. seem to remember latching the rh layaway from the rail seemed to be a question of timing more than anything else, almost knacky... to get the lh sidepull I put my toe on the very edge of the foothold where you get the heel toe.. seemed to make a massive difference..    

[The Sausage]

Thanks all. It's a brilliant set of moves so I'm glad I was on the right track - it's awful when you work out a great sequence only to find it's totally defunct. I thought about the prospect of matching the press gaston and going straight up from there. Looks amazing.

[Kingy]

Tsunami is an amazing problem, I found that after matching the sloper (left foot backstepping the low pocket, RF on the tiny fin), I put my outside LF on a small nubbin higher up while my RF was still in contact with the fin. I then put my heel straight up on the good bit of the rail. Put it on the extreme left as it then 'rolls' rightwards into the best bit of the hold. Then get a heel toe cam, its really bomber, honest! Reach up to the sidepull with RH - make sure you get the best bit, fingers in the right dimples, as this makes a massive difference. Then put outside LF on one of the flagging edges that Andy mentions, I found this crucial. BTW I  could not do the move with the toe, i had to use the heel toe cam. Once in a stable position, reach undercut, LF on polished foothold used on standup. For last move, I found going for the flat rightmost bit of the ledge better than the 'jug' further left as it is easier to hang even when your feet cut loose as it does not slope leftwards. I had to really go for this last move...I think it is a little easier if you have your toe on.

Have the mats well placed to protect against the jagged rocks below, I twatted my elbow in a fall straight down off the last move and badly bruised the bone, OK now tho. Enjoy!

[Kingy]

One final point, try just leaving the heel toe cam in place for the last move, it pulls you in quite well and it may take too much energy to change it to a toe - u may as well just go for the jug straight away.

[nathan wind]

Have the mats well placed to protect against the jagged rocks below, I twatted my elbow in a fall straight down off the last move and badly bruised the bone, OK now tho. Enjoy!

I can second that, took an absolutely unexpected backslapping flyer off that final move once.. nearly ended up in the lake!! I think its something to do with a combination of all the energy you put into psyching for the final move and the shiny shiny holds...

Great problems though..

[The Sausage]

Nice one Ted... I didn't realise you'd done Tsunami. Did you try/do staminaband last year? will no doubt see you soon at some god-forsaken peak district crimp-hole.

...i've been spotting someone who's left hand blew out of the undercling going for the top move... he flew backwards horizontally and nearly knocked me into the lake.

[Kingy]

Cheers man made a huge difference doing it in baltic Febraury temps, it was a touch bleak at times tho. Was there yesterday afternoon in the full on sun and couldn't even begin to think about pulling on them crimps!!

Its a spicy move for sure that last one, have those A2 pulleys taped!! No joy on Staminaband yet, have been on it already this year tho, got to last move which is depressingly as hard as ever... Its more like a route that one I reckon!

[Andy B]

On the last move of Tsunami I moved my right foot in to the sloper, and rocked on to this to go for the jug with my right hand.

[nathan wind]

was back here last satdy, first time in ages and had another go at the low rh version of a bigger splash direct, if anything just to remember the moves..

the crux for me is sticking the rh layaway / sidepull.. would be interested to know how other people do this move? I have my left hand in the pocket, right hand in the part of the rail where the heel would go for tsunami etc... feet on small edges..  (have a photo somewhere which I'll try and post)... does this sound right? or would it be better to somehow try and get the heel / toe in? sticking the rh sidepull / layaway seems a bit random with the method I've been using..

[(woz)]

Keep going along the rail till LH sloper/RH pocket - then right heel up and you know the rest.

[Andy Harris]

Nathan, I reach the sidepull with my LH in the pocket as you said. It's quite agressive so I guess it comes down to if you like that move or can sacrifice it aginst more moves.

[nathan wind]

cheers guys! will have to try the new beta soon, or just pull harder!! seem to remember going for Andy's method as it meant I could latch the rh hold, stick my toe on the edge of the rail and then go straight for the left sidepull without messing about too much.. anyway, keen to get back! was hoping to get down there today but its pissing down here (huddersfield), so will hopefully get over in the week...

[(woz)]

Was mint conditions there all today...

[nathan wind]

arrrggghh! wish I'd known!! Dan (Kennard) and I were gonna come down but just thought it would be soaked! bit gutted really! just got back from my first visit to the wall in months!!

[Andy Harris]

Had a nice session bouldering at Rubicon the other night and thought I’d create a new graded list with some grade changes and link ups. Not included the knealing starts as they are all superceded by the low right variants which are better but don’t add to the grade.

Let’s here what you think + anything I’ve missed.

Name                                              Grade
Bigger Splash (jump start)                    7a+
Bigger Tail                                 7a+
Kudos easy                                 7b
Hotfun traverse                                 7b
Kudos hard                                 7b+
Bigger Splash direct (LH u’cut)       7b+
The Press                                 7b+
Hotfun hard (ss)                                 7c
Twin Pinches to jug                    7c
Low right Bigger Splash Direct       7c
Problem left of Kudos (stand start)       7c/7c+
Low right Press                                 7c+
Tsunami with pocket                    7c+
Tsunami sloper match                    8a
Low left Press                                 8a+

Link ups   
Press (or BSD) + reverse Hotfun trav + Kudos hard   7c+/8a
Low right Press + above                    8a+
Tsunami + above                                 8a+
Low left Press + above                    8a+/8b

[dave]

nice one andy. couple of questions:

Bigger Splash (jump start) - what is this? i don't get how a jumpstart would help on bigger splash.

Hotfun traverse - is this what everyone else calls kudos traverse?

Hotfun hard (ss) - is this the kudos sitter?

Isn't "Tsunami with pocket" just low left start to BSD without any rules, and Tsunami being an eliminate thereon? I know Tsunami started out just being the low left with a specific name, but these days people seem to get shirty about the pocket use, and the low left with no rules still looks a perfectly good logical problem which aught not to just be refered to as a cheating version of an eliminate, so treating them (and naming them) seperate might make sense. maybe?

[Stubbs]

If you weren't 6.5 foot tall you'd understand the jump start bit 

[dave]

I'm not, and I still don't. No-one i've ever seen do it has jumpstarted - what are you jumping to?

[Stubbs]

My bad, it's bigger tail that you have to jump for innit.

[Bonjoy]

I think Andy meant - A Bigger Tail (jump start)

[Andy Harris]

Your right Bonjoy I was getting my Splash's & Tail's mixed up.

Bigger tail (jump start to edges then direct up to jug via horrible pocket)

Bigger Splash is sidepulls on right.

Hotfun traverse / Kudos traverse same thing

Hotfun Hard (ss) is sit start to hotfun but finishing rock over way.

I will also add Original Hotfun (7c) which starts LH on 3 finger pocket, RH to gaston, rockover on poor smear left of jug rail (basically the jug rail didn't use to exist and this problem is a lot harder than using the jug).

See what you're getting at with Tsunami. A few bits of info
-the orignal point of this problem was making it hard not the easiest way up and is hence eliminate
-this is why we wanted to match sloper & do the u'cut move as opposed to going again to jug with LH     
-using the pocket does make that problem half a grade easier
-Tsunami is a cool name and in realty the problem had probably been done before this but we'll never know
-holds on this area of wall have morphed over the years (particulalry the square hold & sloper) making problems using them a bit easier and making the Tsunami heel toe possible where previously you had to traverse the rail and climb into it as per the low right start
- I think Tsunami should remain eliminate at 8a and the same problem using any holds / sequence should be "easy Tsunami" in the typical Peak nomenclature or maybe "King Wave" at 7c+