[shark]

11.4-5

M.

T. Evening. Weighted deadhangs - full crimp and drag. Similar scores to sunday. Bit disappointed

W. Evening. Wave. Hot and sweaty New level 2s. Did the tricky yellow on steep section (now made easier). Mainly tried green and black spots again. Flashed the other much easier level 2's on steep section

T. 7 hours of driving then a brutal late afternoon session with Louise mainly working on left shoulder

F. Eve Intended training but went for a piss up at a brewery instead

S. PM Foundry Wave. Deserted. Got fed up of green and black spots. Tried yellow and black level 3 on right side of steep section. Got close on the flash. Few more goes to get it in the bag. eve Impromptu and rare pub session with John Barton and Keith.

S. Lunch Weighted deadhangs. Disappointing scores. PM Foundry autobelay. The reset routes on the line 45 in the Furnace were even more hopeless as training routes than usual featuring slopers, pockets and are cruxy.  The angle of this line could provide perfect training routes for lapping. I've mentioned it enough times on their FB page and the lines this time are so bad that I'm beginning to think the cunts are doing it to wind me up. If it wasn't for the Wave I'd be going elsewhere 

Was hoping to go to High Tor with Nick this week but he was too busy and had no takers for Malham. Climbing better than ever on Wave but my fingerboard scores are well down on February. Im sure the connies are a factor but still cant understand why I'm not doing better on the fingerboard. Barrows suggested switching to try the Anderson hangs. If someone could tell me what they are that would be useful. Also going to book a pilates sess in the near future to see if I can get my partially corrected body to operate better.   

[duncan]

STG: Font. 6c in Fontainebleau.  Don't get injured.
MTG: E5 by end of August.
LTG: 7b+RP, LH&F tbc.

M -
T - Westway, routes to 6b+. Good session.
W -
T -
F - High Tor with HG. Warmed-up on the right wing sport routes including Scoobs (6c, unpolished, and worth a star in anyone’s money). On to the main event, Supersonic. Rack was a little light as I'd forgotten to replenish the gear I'd used on Zeppelin last weekend, so only had 1.5 sets of wires. Since the first crux is on pegs and I'd done Flaky recently I thought I'd be alright. Managed the section up to Flaky first go, a bit nervous, got pumped, but all in control. Climbed up and down the groove several times, fiddling in gear, regretting the wires I'd placed in the crack below and my inadequate rack. Expended too much energy but eventually found two fairly good wires and a cam on two lobes out right. Reversed, rested again, then up I went. All steady to a move below the peg, then BOTH WIRES FELL OUT! In an earlier life I'd have just gone for it but, with one crappy cam and a rock 1 between me and the starting ledges, I beat a hasty retreat. I tried to compose myself wondering if I could summon the energy for another go. Then it started raining. I bailed. After the rain stopped, HG dispatched Tales... and retrieved my gear. Felt exhausted on the drive back to London and had to stop for a nap and restorative cuppa.
S - Glyndebourne. Don Pasquale, jolly nice.
S - Westway, routes to 6b+. Tired and not that effective.

Supersonic was a little disappointing but I gave it my all and I know I can get up these routes so it's a confidence boost for the future. A good failure. The ground up is still on!

Next week: 6 days in Font. en famille. Forecast dry, sunny, but not ludicrously hot. Can't wait. 

[shark]

Good effort giving it a go Duncan.

[TobyD]

  Don't get injured.
MTG: E5 by end of August.

I'm on for it. Team tick of these two final week of August! Anyone care to elaborate on soft Cornish E5s? Do they exist?

[tomtom]

Great story Duncan - quite a day.

Shark - your FB scores are lower but climbing better - because you're going out climbing more!!! Now Isnt the overall point (Nibs - close your eyes) of fingerboarding to improve your climbing???

[nai]

Mon - opted against rushing back to Two Tier, decided to wait til Thursday when connies looked very good. 
So - Tor, Prow top pitch - warm, scary and unsuccesful.  Couldn't really suss the final moves over the roof.

Tue 40 mins yoga and some stretching

Wed - did a 15 minute warm up to about 60%, felt great.

Thu - woke up feeling fresh and weighed in lightest for 20 years.  Forecast had worked out; cool, fresh and breezy.

Both partners bailed before I'd fnished breakfast

Warmed up at home while searching for a partner, felt great.  Ended up at the Tor working Chimes and sulking.  Mostly sulking to be fair but actually made an impression on Chimes for the first time.

Fri nowt (ok, still sulking)

Sat - 45 minutes in garage - warmup, did a few quality attempts at a problem, warm down.  Right middle PIP joint not happy.

Sun - nowt

Disappointing week, just had to cancel todays attempts at Aberration to protect the finger from too much fiddly crimping. Off for a road trip on Thursday with six days available to climb so want to ensure I can do something.

[Wood FT]

Cheers Shark.

Duncan - I share your feeling on a good failure, the Dunkirk spirit..

STG:Cider Soak, 7b+ dws
MTG:8a+ (Pat Pence?) E5 os 7c dws
LTG:8b

M-
T-
W- shambles weather drove around looking at wet rock, didn't want to fingerboard in a busy house.
T-
F-
S- Rain everywhere so went to Torbryan which was surprisingly bone dry near enough. Warmed up on Barney Rubble 7a, Thread Flinstone first go 7a+/b (failed to flash it last year) then Little White Lie 7b first go putting the clips in (failed onsight a month ago). Finally did the crux on Threadbare 7c+ but really don't like it. Tried to RP the LH start but lost it at the top, I think the LH start is the better route at 7b+/c. Finished on Mayday 6c. Knackered. Always like introducing this crag to people, it's a bit of a shock when you walk through the soaking forest up to a little slice of Spain

S- Last minute change of genre/location from Brean to Lower Sharpnose. First non-easy trad for 1+ years so walked in feeling nervous excited knowing I was much fitter than the last time I came here in 2014. Partner climbed Break on Through E4 and I seconded slowly to try and tempt out the pump. Annoyingly sat on my nut key and slash my palm, small panic as it looked deep but stuffed it with chalk and seemed ok. Felt good climbing wise so set off on Pacemaker E5, a bit rusty on gear selection but confident and moving well. I climbed up through the crux and to a reasonable rest on a slightly hollow flake, started to feel shaky and harassed here (tapping it did not help my mind) until I found a good wire above me and could relax. Moved up via a big gaston move and a clipped a reasonable looking peg, shook out and tried to get enough back for the last few moves, eyed up a big undercut above me with the chalk of passing hands, took this with my right, ran my feet up to the quartz vein and I'm off into mid air having peeled away a chunk of the crag. Gutted, had a small internal tantrum. Climbed second go as a fun 6c and really enjoyed it.



Family wedding next weekend so no climbing for a bit, glad to have a trad day to savour.

[Murph]

Cheers Shark.

66kg
M-
T-spent 1/2hr at Rubicon remembering how lime feels. It feels great. This might have been my first climb on rock since 1st May. Did some laps of Miller's Tale. Felt ok after not feeling ok. Hello Matt and Tom 
Eve - first fingerboard in months. 10s max hangs up to 40kg on 19mm and up to 16kgs on 14mm.
6k@6:00/k
W-10k@6:00/k
T-10k@5:45/k.
Eve-works 25 yellows (4+/5?).
F-realised I'd done something to my Achilles, not sure how. Too much running or sudden reaction to putting my tight lime shoes on. Or both. Looks like I've got Haglund's deformity, which may or may not be the cause of pain. Great, another tendon issue for the list.
S-max hangs 40kg on 19mm and 24kg on 14mm.
S-

Unless this ankle suddenly gets better it looks like running and kettlebells are off the menu for a while. Just when I thought it was safe to go back in....

[Coops_13]

STG: Train for the Lakes
MTG: 7C

M: HIIT workout, legs and core
T: Arch, took a mate from home there so lower intensity that I would have liked
W:
T:
F: Watching cricket and drinking beer. In bed at 0130, up at 0630 
S: Peak Lime. Fell off the end of Weedkiller Traverse 7A+ again repeatedly. Failed on a number of other things at Griff's and Blackwell. Pulled one out of the bag by ticking Jerry's Traverse 7A+ 3rd or 4th go. Fingers screaming towards the end of that.
S: The Cliff, a bit warm... Made good progress on Underhand 7B+ (first proper session). Came close but no cigar, should go next time. Did Black Wall Dyno 7A+ at end, lovely pop.


Off to the Lakes for a week of bouldering in two weeks, so final prep for that.

[tomtom]

My week:
M:
Tu: Rubicon
We:
Th: Rubicon
Fr:
Sa: Rubicon
Su: Depot - took TTjnr to 'Rock Tots' for his first experience of climbing. As he cant walk - his experience was a bit limited but he sat quite happily on the mats and watched his dad raz up and down a few blacks on the comp wall in his trainers... He found me climbing very very funny (hmm....)

This pretty much sums up my week at the crag... and contains footage of the Rubicon cat...



Good session on Tuesday - bumped into Measles for the first time - and Murph turned up at the end. Unfortunately made some progress on Kudos which means I'll have to try it again and again and again.. A Bigger Splash Direct still eludes me -despite getting my hands around the jug but not holding on... Bah.

[Nibile]

Power Club

Mon - some one arm hangs, Lattice and San Power edge: terrible waste of time. Rounded edges and 27 degress don't go along well.
Tue - rest.
Wed - back on the 1 cm edge after years. So beautiful. Not bad at all, with some good skin and good conditions things could get interesting. Front3 + 28 kg; back3 + 20 kg; normal half crimp + 40 kg. A final 35" hang at bodyweight. All pure max hangs, around 1,5/2". Very happy because apart from the back3 I felt quite good and I could have done a bit more surely in term of hang times, but I didn't want to come off out of control with some iron plates at the waist. Happy. Cleans x 5  + snatch pulls x 5, x 5 46 kg. Shoulder raises x 6, bicep curls x 10, x 2. Brilliant session.
Thu - pull ups with 4" pause at 90 degrees + 10 kg 5 x 6. Overhead carry 30" x 5, shoulder carry, 30" x 5, 46 kg.
Fri - rest.
Sat - low PE 1/1 fell at 30" of 4th set. EMOM sets cleans 5 x 10 46 kg. Dumbbell complex 1/1 x 4. Exhausting.
Sun - ab wheel + 8 kg, tired. EMOM set pull ups 4 x 10 + 10 kg. Cleans 10 x 5 41 kg. Dumbbell complex 1/1 x 4.

Happy about the week, lots of stress for work but managed to put the sessions in. The 1 cm edge session was a mental and physical task and I fucking loved it.
Could be going to the Dolomites this coming weekend, will taper a bit.

[Duma]

Goals:
Fix shoulder
More 8A's
8b

Body Audit: Left Shoulder definitely more painful, but in a better way (yeah I know that doesn't make sense) seems more muscular than impinged now.
Sleep: OK.
71kg.

M: Nothing (~8hrs, 1dk)
T: Nothing, shoulder rehab. (7hrs, 0dk)
W: Nothing.(~7hrs, 0dk)
T: TCA, shoulder rehab and low 6's (~7hrs, 0dk)
F: Nothing. (~8hrs, 7dk)
S: Nothing, shoulder rehab. (~8hrs, 9dk)
S: TCA, shoulder rehab and hungover bimble on the warmups (~6hrs, 0dk)

[csl]

STG - end of August

7B
Do 2 board projects. 1/2

MTG - end of Year

Something off the lifetime list

Monday

nothing

Tuesday

Arch B1

Shit session, felt tweaky and tired. Just flitted about on various things.

Wednesday

nothing

Thursday

Arch B1

A few problems up to Red's. Tried some Greens and White, not feeling strong.

Friday

nowt

Saturday

drove to Portland late in the evening, was hoping to arrive in time for an evening session but left it a bit late. Fantastic bivvy overlooking the sea.

Sunday

Woke up with the sunrise at Cuttings Boulderfield, first time out in nearly 2 months(!)

Flashed Lost Decade 7A, probably needs a downgrade: 6B+/6C in my opinion.
Did Lightning Strike 7A+, got close in a few goes but was feeling tired so walked back out to Easton to grab some breakfast and coffee. Caffeine was obviously the key as it felt easy on my return.
Sadly my skin was screaming by this point so didn't get anything else done, but briefly tried Relativity, Petty Theif and Southern Soul (ouch).
Went to look at Ope in Hell as a possible 7C project, great looking line! Will go back and try when fresh.

[Murph]

I forgot to add - my fingerboard sessions were motivated entirely by Nibile yelling in my ear calling me a motherfucker. Thanks Nibs!

TT - keep at it! That hold is a jug it's all in the mind.

[cheque]

Good effort Duncan.

Thu - woke up feeling fresh and weighed in lightest for 20 years.  Forecast had worked out; cool, fresh and breezy.

Both partners bailed before I'd fnished breakfast

Gutted for you Nai.

had no takers for Malham.

I'm well keen if weather comes good on a weekend- can't take any days off work 'til the start of September now. 

[shark]

Shark - your FB scores are lower but climbing better - because you're going out climbing more!!!

That would be a point well made if were it true

Now Isnt the overall point (Nibs - close your eyes) of fingerboarding to improve your climbing???]Now Isnt the overall point (Nibs - close your eyes) of fingerboarding to improve your climbing???

Yes of course. Looking back at diary maybe I was climbing better in March than I realised when my fingerboard scores were better. Definitely a priority to get the finger strength back up to at least February levels and hopefully much better before the Autumn Malham season.   

[shark]

had no takers for Malham.

I'm well keen if weather comes good on a weekend- can't take any days off work 'til the start of September now. 

Apparently we are due some autumnal type weather. Potentially free this coming weekend but away with family the two weekends after

[tommytwotone]

Goals: Font7anything


Short update from me, didn't get to climb, had my 39th birthday on Tues and a big night out in town on Fri, but despite all that still managed to do min 100 reps of something (normally bodyweight stuff at home). Getting to Sunday means a solid month.


Definitely feel better for it - wish I'd taken a "before" pic to contrast it but I was adamant I wasn't doing it "got the 'gram" so I didn't. Debating whether to try and make it 100 days in a row now.  It's definitely taught me that on the days where I thought I was too tired and/or didn't have time to do some exercise, I actually wasn't and I did.

[psborland]

 Barrows suggested switching to try the Anderson hangs. If someone could tell me what they are that would be useful.

Shark, is Mr Barrows referring to the Anderson brothers AKA Rock climbers training manual protocol ? which is the 7 on 3 off x 6reps ?  more hypertrophy oriented...
 it's basically the 4th one on this page http://zlagboardusa.com/training-app/4-hangboard-training-protocols-that-work/.
I've got a copy of their book at home I can scan the relevant pages over if it helps.

[36chambers]

M:
T: Cliff. Poor connies, split a tip (again) on Matt's Roof 7B+.
W:
T:
F: GF's mum up for the weekend :|
S: Free pass to Anston stones! Climbed Resonate 7C, which is excellent. Quick play on Ebola 7C which seems way easier than I had been lead to believe. Thought I climbed Overlooked 7B+ but it looks like I may have climbed an eliminated version of the 6B next to it... Brief cursory punt on Dark Art 8A, making minuscule progress with the heel placement, should probably try it before trashing myself on other problems.   
S: Long walk around Malham and Gordale.

Next weekend we are entertaining 4 of the GF's friends from London, who are non-climbers :|. One couple just married, the other just engaged. Having been to 6 weddings in the past year, I now get so unbelievably bored of wedding talk. I'm such a selfish bastard.

[36chambers]

Short update from me, didn't get to climb, had my 39th birthday on Tues and a big night out in town on Fri, but despite all that still managed to do min 100 reps of something (normally bodyweight stuff at home). Getting to Sunday means a solid month.

Happy birthday

and good effort on the training front.

[tommytwotone]

Short update from me, didn't get to climb, had my 39th birthday on Tues and a big night out in town on Fri, but despite all that still managed to do min 100 reps of something (normally bodyweight stuff at home). Getting to Sunday means a solid month.

Happy birthday

and good effort on the training front.

Cheers - big one next year, already trying to work out what to do next year for it!


The 100 reps thing has resulted in some interesting improvisation, including squats / pressups in the shower room at work, and walking lunges up and down my mate's garden while holding his (pretty hefty) baby son.

[Will Hunt]

Having been to 6 weddings in the past year, I now get so unbelievably bored of wedding talk. I'm such a selfish bastard.

It'll be Ben next 

[T_B]

M - Max hangs. 2 x 25kg half crimp, 3 x 30kg half crimp, 1 x middle two no weight, 4 x middle two 5kg. A couple of routes. Hot.
T - Lunch run.
W - Wave. Best sess since 31/5. Managed repeats of black and white/black spots.
T - Max hangs. 1 x 20kg, 4 x 30kg (only just). Bailed on middle two - tired.
F - Lunch run.
S -
S - Holme Moss FR.

Busy (life) wk pre-summer hols, but quite pleased with short block of Max hangs which definitely translated into better performance ont Wave.
Off tomorrow to Europe for 5 weeks (Font and Targassonne) : ) : )

[shark]

 Barrows suggested switching to try the Anderson hangs. If someone could tell me what they are that would be useful.

Shark, is Mr Barrows referring to the Anderson brothers AKA Rock climbers training manual protocol ? which is the 7 on 3 off x 6reps ?  more hypertrophy oriented...
 it's basically the 4th one on this page http://zlagboardusa.com/training-app/4-hangboard-training-protocols-that-work/.
I've got a copy of their book at home I can scan the relevant pages over if it helps.

That's it. Thanks.

[Nibile]

I forgot to add - my fingerboard sessions were motivated entirely by Nibile yelling in my ear calling me a motherfucker. Thanks Nibs!

No problem Murph!
Should you be interested, I can send you an audio file with the real deal, just for 4 FuckAlls.

[TobyD]

Monday yoga early, 35km bike ride, repeaters pm
Tuesday trail run early 5km, repeaters pm
Wednesday road run early 5.5km, bouldering on wave evening
Thursday turbo trainer early,  wave session
Friday turbo trainer early, run evening
Saturday turbo trainer early, wave session, 3 goes at 7a+
Sunday turbo trainer early, cornice: 6 or 7 routes to 7b feeling pretty tired and getting pumped easily

Decent week again, as Keith reassured me on Sunday shouldn't be too disappointed with one rest to lead a 7a+ at the cornice last route of the day....

[SA Chris]

2 weeks in the heat of Lanzarote, but managed a bit of exercise at least.

S - evening run - 5.5 k
M - snorkelling and open water swim
T - SUP session - 2.6 k - struggle - bit windy and choppy. Run / hike up volcanco. Had to walk top half of ascent, but run along ridge at the top was amazing. Descent was like kitty litter, would have been a fun scree run with boots on.
W - surf session Famara - good waves, onshore, but some nice faces.
T - snorkelling, bit disappointing, tide too low.
F - surf at Famara - bit disappointing, but still nice to enjoy warm water.

S - 6.5 k run along walkway at Playa Blanca
S - Snorkelling. Amazing
M - Open water swim - 400m, 2 k run in evening to Playa Mujeres beach and back
T - nothing
W - 5 km SUP to Playa Mujeres and back. Hard work, but a great trip. Should have taken some water was knackered afterwards and crashed out.
T - Snorkelling / Swim at Paya Dorada, circa 350m. 2 k run to Mujeres and back again.
F -  Fat Bike along the coast - 10.5 km. OK fun, but wouldn't buy one.
S - travelled home.
S - knackered.

Also swam in pool with and without kids most days, only put on 6 lbs in the 2 weeks in spite of eating too much and drinking more than usual. Back to climbing again tonight.

[fried]

Seem to have missed a couple of weeks...

Week 1 - BM session, went to isatis, warmed up, started pouring, went home. Went back at the weekend did some easy stuff and repeated L'incommode. Hot hot hot.

Week 2 - Too much work, went to Gorge aux chat and unsurprisingly got anwhere with the humid conditions, but no worse the before. Sunday at Canche aux merciers...climbed well until the top out and backed off far too much.

This week nothing...just cooking for my bday. Targassonne next week.

[tomtom]

I forgot to add - my fingerboard sessions were motivated entirely by Nibile yelling in my ear calling me a motherfucker. Thanks Nibs!

No problem Murph!
Should you be interested, I can send you an audio file with the real deal, just for 4 FuckAlls.

Where is your training vid Nibs - where you say grab the hold and pull fucking hard - or something like that?

[Nibile]

 
I closed my Vimeo account, will put something on Youtube!

[T_B]

Anyone care to elaborate on soft Cornish E5s? Do they exist?

Evil Eye has been upgraded. It's safe at least from what I can remember. Don't get on it in the sun!

[TobyD]

Anyone care to elaborate on soft Cornish E5s? Do they exist?

Evil Eye has been upgraded. It's safe at least from what I can remember. Don't get on it in the sun!

cheers Tom! Got any beta? Any other Cornish recommendations E1-5? Safe is what I like to hear! I did Kafloozalem in the baking sun about 10 years ago, and can still remember how greasy it was...

[duncan]

  Don't get injured.
MTG: E5 by end of August.

I'm on for it. Team tick of these two final week of August! Anyone care to elaborate on soft Cornish E5s? Do they exist?

Assuming upgraded E4s like Evil Eye are better bets...West Face has a well-protected hard section, habrich has done it and seemed to think it a possibility. Burning Gold at Carn Les Boel, sounds like it needs dry conditions and Littlejohn's forearms.

Otherwise...not much is there?

[hstmoore]

Although it's not E5 I highly recommend a trip to Carn Les Boel, as Duncan suggested, to do Interspace E4. The route is excellent, steady but pumpy, and blasts right up a very impressive face in a lovely situation. When we abseiled down there we were greeted by 2 seals swimming around in the turquoise water. If sea cliff climbing was featured in an American movie, it would look like this.

[shark]

Not done it and doesnt seem popular on UKC logbooks but High Street Blues at Sennen looks very do-able.

Anyone done it?

[andy popp]

I thought Dog Town at Carn Barra was good and fair at the grade (though not a soft touch necessarily).

[psborland]

M. BBC did new  V3-V5 circuit . Weighted pull ups 5@+25kg 5@+30; 3@+35kg.
T.
We.
Th. Ancap home board. Some improvement added 2 reps to the last set.
F. In-laws arrived for weekend.
Sa.  core routine b1 1.5 rounds before anyone woke up.
Su. Hangboard max hangs, improvement, added weight to all 3 grips. Possibly because it was one of the few times I've been completely fresh & 3 days since last trained ?

Next week (w/c 31st) I'm off work if anybody's looking for a sport partner weekdays.