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Peak District Slabs (Read 15201 times)

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#25 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 27, 2016, 06:16:44 pm
That's what I thought. 7C slabs should feel the living end (for me anyway). Going back to slabs has anyone done that thing left of clever skin at baldstones!? Gets 7C i think? 😮

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#26 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 27, 2016, 06:19:17 pm
Fiedler's wall.....

dave k

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#27 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 27, 2016, 06:36:10 pm
Fielder's Wall. Gets 7B, but have not met anyone who has done it. Would not really class it as a slab. Someone on here did say they had done it and that it was ok.

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#28 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 27, 2016, 06:51:54 pm
I've done fielders wall, as has Kanye (for those who know him). It doesn't climb like a slab though, and is harder than it used to be after I broke the pebble you used to use with your left hand for the crux.

Slabotomy definitely has two different starts, but they are close to each other.

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#29 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 27, 2016, 06:56:29 pm
Fielder's Wall. Gets 7B, but have not met anyone who has done it. Would not really class it as a slab. Someone on here did say they had done it and that it was ok.

They're always ok when you've done em.

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#30 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 27, 2016, 09:50:47 pm
I've done Fielders. I thought it was fine for 7b but it was ages ago so probs pre-AndyB the pebble destroyer. Agree with Andy its not really a slab, more powerful undercutting and a big rockover. Or something.

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#31 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 07:18:35 am
Thanks, I'll have to get back there and try it again. I remember waving my left hand around in scrittle. I can't think of that many slab boulder problems on peak grit. Lots of great routes though.

JamieG

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#32 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 02:02:16 pm
Thought of another.

Miles Slab/Directissima - Wimberry 7b+

dave

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#33 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 02:09:35 pm
Couple more:

Pig Heart Boy at Froggatt.
Famous Grouse at Bbg West - it's basically a slab/arete, albeit a hanging one.
There's a decent slab at naughty crag Y too

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#34 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 05:23:07 pm
Couple more:
Famous Grouse at Bbg West - it's basically a slab/arete, albeit a hanging one.

I take your point, but the "hanging" bit is the crux and is not a slab! If it feels like a slab you're too strong Dave. Did you burn Megos off on this too?

Steve R

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#35 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 05:27:35 pm
Don't think Sean's Arete at Curbar has been mentioned yet.  Needs a bit of tension to be put through the feet but not a strenuous problem so ticks all the boxes and is an amazing set of moves.   

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#36 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 05:51:33 pm
Again what you say is true, but the crux is battling a shit pinch to do a dyno in a position of definitive over-the-verticalness. I think you and Dave need to go on a slab awareness course together  ;)

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#37 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 09:26:53 pm
Slab awareness course?! Where do they run this?

mrjonathanr

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#38 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 09:41:56 pm
La Pedriza.

Nicotine Stain is well worthwhile, but won't pass the height-cum-headtorch test, so save it for another day.

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#39 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 09:54:00 pm
I generally take advantage of my grade 2 Slab Avoidance ticket, but...
 Winsome, Wimberry, 7a+ - Good front pointing on pebbles
 Diamond Slab/Scoop Centre, RHS, 6c+ - Slightly wiggy padding
 Deamboat Direct, Froggatt, 7a - Worth seeking out after a dry spell. High but a perfect landing
 Cherub's Bit, Turning Stone, 7a - Esoteric pure padding

 

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#40 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 28, 2016, 10:06:52 pm
Slab awareness course?! Where do they run this?
Gaskins Home Wall, He'll show you how to pull on a few quarks then introduce you to the God Particle

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#41 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 29, 2016, 08:16:37 am
Again what you say is true, but the crux is battling a shit pinch to do a dyno in a position of definitive over-the-verticalness. I think you and Dave need to go on a slab awareness course together  ;)

Dave just needs to start climbing less on steep overhanging boards and climb slower ;)

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#42 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 29, 2016, 09:15:36 pm
Went to have a look at Cherub's bit a couple of years ago. As BJ says its pure slab, but it was green. Might be able to clean it up now I have a bit more time
I'm not sure Sean's arete is a slab TBH. You need to pull hard at the start and at the end -  you're obviously just too strong Steve :)
Dave please can you give me a clue or send me a PM re naughty crag y ?. If its the same one I'm thinking off I've done a couple of problems there over the last 2 years which I was saving the write up for a later date

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#43 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 29, 2016, 09:41:00 pm
Slab awareness course?! Where do they run this?
Gaskins Home Wall, He'll show you how to pull on a few quarks then introduce you to the God Particle

Quark-pulling ability is definitely useful.





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#44 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 29, 2016, 10:05:04 pm
Dave please can you give me a clue or send me a PM re naughty crag y ?. If its the same one I'm thinking off I've done a couple of problems there over the last 2 years which I was saving the write up for a later date

Naughty crag y is in the current Froggatt book as Stanton-in-the-woods.

Dolly

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#45 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 30, 2016, 04:57:25 pm
OK cheers

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#46 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 30, 2016, 08:16:42 pm
Some great stuff here, this will keep me going for absolutely ages. That thing at Turning Stone Edge looks great. Keep em comin!

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#47 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 30, 2016, 09:28:49 pm
I think maybe The Stride ones mentioned are the most accessible on Southern Grit.

Cherubs Bit is a good looking piece of rock but I was there a couple of weeks ago and it will need a re-clean and the rhododendrons pruning back to get it back to its former glory. I'm keen to do this so post up it does get cleaned up. :)

On a similar note I think this is the harder slab at Stanton Woods/Y that Dave means?
Chip of the Same Block 7b  - http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,21233.0.html
Another good chunk of esoteric slab.  Again this needs a clean as does the whole slab -the easier lines to the right are superb when in good nick.

Possibly Fat Girl Rodeo 7b at Black Rocks should be on the list? Goes  left across the slab from The Runnel and finishes up Runnel Rib.  Not done it myself but is an acceptable venue for lanterns.
Not sure if Bonjoy's Invasion of the Cider Women Direct 7a at Cratcliffe also might fit the bill as a slab?  Maybe too steep? He might advise.
Angel Falls 6c at Seagull/Illegal Tor is very good but access is not allowed in the day and definitely not in the dark.
Phoenix Nights at Hillcar Wood also has some classic slab moves but pretty highball and maybe not one for the dark!






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#48 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 31, 2016, 10:42:24 am
I'd echo what others have said about the stuff at Crag Y/Stanton in the Woods. Some  excellent slabs, mostly below 6C but damn good nonetheless. Bolehill's one up the middle of the Chip Off slab is IMO the best 6A/B slab in the Peak (when not covered in moss!).
Fat Girl Rodeo is a good slab move but quite highball for a lamp session.
Cider Women Direct is a good call for a steep slab.

dave

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#49 Re: Peak District Slabs
October 31, 2016, 10:52:59 am
I'd echo what others have said about the stuff at Crag Y/Stanton in the Woods. Some  excellent slabs, mostly below 6C but damn good nonetheless. Bolehill's one up the middle of the Chip Off slab is IMO the best 6A/B slab in the Peak (when not covered in moss!).
Fat Girl Rodeo is a good slab move but quite highball for a lamp session.
Cider Women Direct is a good call for a steep slab.

I forget the names but pretty sure Cofe got some good lower grade slabs on this vid:


 

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