[Duma]

Anyone want to share the beta? Any topos about online? Thinking of a trip up this way next week and have always lusted after pics of this place.

[Duncan campbell]

Parking and approach are simple enough. Drive to Trefiw then at the Fairy Falls pub turn (dependant on which way you came) left/right up the steep hill opposite the fairy falls. Keep driving up the road, passing a car park. You will eventually get to a gate. Once through this park sensibly on the left immediately.

To approach begin to walk along the path ahead of where you parked (dont follow the main path/dirtroad) but break away to your right to go over a couple of stiles (after c.100m) and walk down a hill to hit another path. Follow this, passing over another stile and aim for the big jumble of boulders ahead. The main boulder with special K, wonderwall etc is in the middle of the boulder field, it is fairly obvious once you get to it.

I don't have any topos though. Have fun 

[Duma]

Nice one, cheers! Could kind of work it out from Google, but didn't know if you could park at the gate.

[Duma]

Oh and do you reckon I'd be ok with 2 pads (one big, one small) or should I strap the third (medium) on too?

[Duncan campbell]

Although carrying 3 up to the boulders won't be fun - I don't think you'll regret it once you're up there.*

None of those main classics are very high but they have those typical boulder field landings where it feels a bit wiggy. Its a good place to have a spotter though I'm sure you'd be fine without.

*I can't exactly remember how many pads we used. Both the times I have been have been with a few people and the first time I was too shit to do anything and the second time I was recovering from spannering my arm and was too shit to do anything.

I'm sure someone else will come along to give more info

[highrepute]

If your big pad is the large moon one size then I think you'd be ok with two but more would be better. We carried 4 up between 2. Walk-in isn't especially hard so doubt you;ll regret carrying more.

There's basically 2 blocks with the problems on. One with Grasswind and the other with Wonderwall, Special K and Cruella. Was all pretty obvious from the info on North Wales Bouldering .com.

[cofe]

How's Crafnant in summer/warm temps?

[monkey boy]

I would say not ideal. Special K maybe ok as the rock is smoother and I think it's in the shade for most of the day. Might get quite midgy I would imagine.

[cofe]

Ta

[highrepute]

I went last weekend in May. Arrived fairly late (6pm-ish) boulders were well in the shade (so guess they are shaded from mid-afternoon, maybe not in height of summer) but a bit warm from being in sun all day, but cooled down as the evening drew in. Midges were fine until around 9pm when they became unbearable - certainly they'll be worse as the summer goes on. Approach is very soggy so water-proof shoes/wellies advisable.

It was really good btw.

[Duma]

What a place! One of the best settings I've ever climbed in I think. Cheers for all the beta gents, as has been said it's fairly self explanatory really. FWIW I only took the 2 pads up (big one is a snap wrap though, so really big) and that was fine, a spot would have been more use than a third pad. Great nick on the day, cloud cover and plenty of wind, so no midge issues either. Skin (and arms) were pretty fucked as was 6th day on by then, so restricted myself to the Wonderwall boulder, all three I did were classic though! Had a look at Grasswind too, but lack of spotter (and beans) put me off. Will be back though! (oh and MOPI looks outrageous (and can def be started with yr arse on the floor  ))

[Duma]

Edit: delete double post idiocy.
Also any chance a mod could correct my typo in the crag name in the thread title to aid future searches please? Ta.

[Duncan campbell]

Glad you had a good one!! IMO the crafnant valley is one of NW's best hidden gems. Such a beautiful valley and pretty quiet too. If you like trad climbing I wholeheartedly recommend Clogwyn Yr Eryr.