[highrepute]

I've done that, it's a bit shit. The description... start in pit and try not to dab ... gives it away.

[Will Hunt]

Fixed a few link errors and included the recommendations from the Palmstrong and 3T - with a hint of wariness as some of those problems look like minging crux topout things. I know you have to expect some rounded top out stuff in Font but problems that are one easy move into a grim elbow-splitting brawl through rounded shitness don't really appeal that much. Probably going on the wrong holiday.

Franchard Isatis
La Memel - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) - 7A+
El Poussah - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs - 7A/+

Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille - 6C/+

Franchard Sablons
Jokari - 7A/+

Cuisinière
Undertow - 7A

Cuisinière Crête Sud
Beatle Juice - 7A+
Excalibur - 7A/+


Petit Bois
L'Oeuf - 7B
La Baleine - 7A/+
Big Jim - 6C


Apremont
Onde de Choc - 7B
Egoiste - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil - 7A

Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Jeu du Toit - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A/6C+

Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A


Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C

Cuvier
Araignee - 7A
Joker - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme - 7A
Holey Moley - 7A
La Conque à Doigts - 7A


Mont Pivot
Pancras - 7A


Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises - 7A


95.2
Le Yaniro - 7A+
Indestructible - 7A+
Tentation - 7A
Retour aux Sources - 7A


Elephant
La Voie Michaud - 6C


Maunoury
Rababoum - 7A


Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait - 7A/+


Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit - 7A/+

[Will Hunt]

Even more incredible looking problem suggestions from 3T. Three new additions to Crete Sud. The 6C arête in particular looks brilliant.


Franchard Isatis
La Memel - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) - 7A+
El Poussah - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs - 7A/+

Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille - 6C/+

Franchard Sablons
Jokari - 7A/+

Cuisinière
Undertow - 7A

Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne - 7B
Beatle Juice - 7A+
Excalibur - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille - 6C/+


Petit Bois
L'Oeuf - 7B
La Baleine - 7A/+
Big Jim - 6C


Apremont
Onde de Choc - 7B
Egoiste - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil - 7A

Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Jeu du Toit - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A/6C+

Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A


Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C

Cuvier
Araignee - 7A
Joker - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme - 7A
Holey Moley - 7A
La Conque à Doigts - 7A


Mont Pivot
Pancras - 7A


Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises - 7A


95.2
Le Yaniro - 7A+
Indestructible - 7A+
Tentation - 7A
Retour aux Sources - 7A


Elephant
La Voie Michaud - 6C


Maunoury
Rababoum - 7A


Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait - 7A/+


Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit - 7A/+
[/quote]

[Coops_13]

If you're at isatis, this is really good. Not far from el poussah: https://bleau.info/isatis/9263.html


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[nai]

problems that are one easy move into a grim elbow-splitting brawl through rounded shitness don't really appeal that much

In which case don't bother with this, the top out is about as "font" as they come:

La Conque à Doigts - 7A

[Will Hunt]

problems that are one easy move into a grim elbow-splitting brawl through rounded shitness don't really appeal that much

In which case don't bother with this, the top out is about as "font" as they come:

La Conque à Doigts - 7A

Noted, thanks. It doesn't look like one of the best on the list.

If you're at isatis, this is really good. Not far from el poussah: https://bleau.info/isatis/9263.html


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Ta Ross. Does anybody know the rules on the left exit? Guys in the pics seem to eliminate the flat top part of that crack but people doing the left exit in the videos seem happy to use it.

[Coops_13]

If you're at isatis, this is really good. Not far from el poussah: https://bleau.info/isatis/9263.html


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Ta Ross. Does anybody know the rules on the left exit? Guys in the pics seem to eliminate the flat top part of that crack but people doing the left exit in the videos seem happy to use it.

I think we didn't use the flat top bit, I seem to remember us going for the vertical bit of that crack as a finger jammy gaston thing...


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[slackline]

Even more incredible looking problem suggestions from 3T. Three new additions to Crete Sud. The 6C arête in particular looks brilliant.

Editing the Wiki is not much more onerous than what you are already doing and avoids the duplication introduced by repeatedly quoting the existing list.

Because there are other grade ranges people might want recommendations for and to avoid the Font section of the France venues page being dwarfed by such lists I've started a new page on Recommended problems in Font and switched to a tabular format (copying over the bleau.info links for each problem at the same time).

Ideally I'd have organised recommendations into the broad number ranges but its not how the list started and I've finished my lunch and have to work now.

[Will Hunt]

Even more incredible looking problem suggestions from 3T. Three new additions to Crete Sud. The 6C arête in particular looks brilliant.

Editing the Wiki is not much more onerous than what you are already doing and avoids the duplication introduced by repeatedly quoting the existing list.

Because there are other grade ranges people might want recommendations for and to avoid the Font section of the France venues page being dwarfed by such lists I've started a new page on Recommended problems in Font and switched to a tabular format (copying over the bleau.info links for each problem at the same time).

Ideally I'd have organised recommendations into the broad number ranges but its not how the list started and I've finished my lunch and have to work now.

 

I've been waiting for you to grow tired of my laziness and do this 
Thanks Slacks

[slackline]

Its more that I don't wish the Venues pages to lose their focus which would have happened had fried's initial edit remained and been added to.

I won't be updating the list any further but the information is organised into a more useful structure for others to add to.

[fried]

Nice work It looked really strange tacked onto the end of the Font section, I was wondering how to make it look better.

[the_dom]

Even more incredible looking problem suggestions from 3T. Three new additions to Crete Sud. The 6C arête in particular looks brilliant.


Franchard Isatis
La Memel - 7A+/B
l'Angle Ben's - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) - 7A+
El Poussah - 7A/+
Boulder de Nerfs - 7A/+

Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille - 6C/+

Franchard Sablons
Jokari - 7A/+

Cuisinière
Undertow - 7A

Cuisinière Crête Sud
La Teigne - 7B
Beatle Juice - 7A+
Excalibur - 7A/+
Déraper sur la Tête de Chien - 6C+
De Fil en Aiguille - 6C/+


Petit Bois
L'Oeuf - 7B
La Baleine - 7A/+
Big Jim - 6C


Apremont
Onde de Choc - 7B
Egoiste - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil - 7A

Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Jeu du Toit - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A/6C+

Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A


Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C

Cuvier
Araignee - 7A
Joker - 7A
Vaudou-Systeme - 7A
Holey Moley - 7A
La Conque à Doigts - 7A


Mont Pivot
Pancras - 7A


Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises - 7A


95.2
Le Yaniro - 7A+
Indestructible - 7A+
Tentation - 7A
Retour aux Sources - 7A


Elephant
La Voie Michaud - 6C


Maunoury
Rababoum - 7A


Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait - 7A/+


Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit - 7A/+

[/quote]

El Poussah is strangely rough on the skin, as is Retour Aux Sources (although it was warm when I did it). Clin d'Oeil is shit, even if you're tall. I'll second Jeu du Toit at Roche aux Sabots.

I would add Ah Plus Facile (the left version of Lapin Ou Canard) at Hautes Plaines, Le Labyrinth des Hombres at Rocher Canon and Duel dans la Lune and Les Pieds dans la Lune at 95.2.

[Sidehaas]

Quality little vid sidehaas you could do a lot worse than ignoring all the other suggestions and just tick you way through that vid!
If that's you on controle 'a' and climbing most of the probs then I think it may be safe to assume that you've got the biggest negative ape I've seen

Cheers
That wasn't me on Controle A though, and Neil (who it was) does indeed have a big span

Having just come back from another trip I'd be tempted to suggest Ange Naif Droite at 95.2 - thought it was really good, and the crucial crimp is good enough that it doesn't feel too skin intensive.

[dave]

Having just come back from another trip I'd be tempted to suggest Ange Naif Droite at 95.2 - thought it was really good, and the crucial crimp is good enough that it doesn't feel too skin intensive.

That crimp split my tip wide open after three attempts on Ange Naif.

[a dense loner]

Was gonna say that! I found that crimp awful to hold as well, another split tip from here. Good problem but horrid crimp

[iwasmexican]

cant remember about skin friendly, but this is definitely one of, if not the best problems for the grade I have ever done

https://bleau.info/puiselet/9375.html

[Sidehaas]

Ok fair enough, ignore that then. I thought the edge was quite sharp but at least it was deep enough that you weren't boning right onto it...guess I muat have juat been a bit lucky.
No abrasiveness at least so if at the start of a trip it'd probably be ok.

[Scouse D]

Biotope at puiselet mont sarrasin is very good fun and skin for friendly.

[Will Hunt]

Bit of an emergency ask this. We have a copy of the 5+6 but our borrowed copy of the 7+8 hasn't materialised. It's out of stock everywhere so need an alternative (unless somebody is happy to lend me one in the Leeds region).

In another thread on this subject the Essential Font guide was recommended. Is this going to be useful for targeting climbs on this list or is there going to be a load of stuff that is difficult to find in a very selective guidebook? I'm likely to go again so don't mind getting something decent. I've never been too sold on the concept of 5+6 and 7+8 as it seems to me that the vast majority of visitors will need to buy two guidebooks and take both of them to the crag on the same day!

[a dense loner]

Why do you want a guidebook? You've got 4 pages of must do's!!!

[monkoffunk]

Why do you want a guidebook? You've got 4 pages of must do's!!!

Still have to find the problems!

Not always easy, spent three hours looking for Ironman last time I was there, like an idiot, only to find it soaking.

[a dense loner]

Not surprised, it always rains at trowbarrow!

[lagerstarfish]

our borrowed copy of the 7+8 hasn't materialised. It's out of stock everywhere so need an alternative (unless somebody is happy to lend me one in the Leeds region).

I've got a copy of the first 7&8 that I won't be using (no chance of me doing a 7 at the moment) - I could take it to Font with me and lend it to you

[fried]

Why not just mark the higher-grade problems on the 5+6 guide, a lot of them are marked anyway. That is if you have both volumes. These guides aren't for grockles anyway.

[205Chris]

The tabac in Barbizon had 7s & 8s in last week.