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Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+ (Read 47115 times)

Will Hunt

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#25 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 07:00:57 pm
Driving on the 19th and there for the week. Et tu?

lagerstarfish

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#26 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 07:49:57 pm
I flashed Egoiste  :smartass:
It was the first problem we tried after a rest day and it was in the morning shade. That about sums up the importance of pacing and tactics for me!

best get the sitter done then

lagerstarfish

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#27 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 07:54:50 pm
Driving on the 19th and there for the week. Et tu?

19th, two weeks

fuck yeah  :dance1:

(somewhat lower grade range than you)

Will Hunt

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#28 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 08:25:59 pm
You lucky lad. Say hi if you see me!

lagerstarfish

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#29 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 08:34:11 pm
you're the one with the mushroom shaped head, right?

I look like me only a bit rounder and older

Mike Tyson

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#30 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 08:37:14 pm
Ah, never mind. Me and TC are off there next month for a week.

Will Hunt

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#31 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 08:53:58 pm
you're the one with the mushroom shaped head, right?

I look like me only a bit rounder and older

Nice one. I'm pretty easy to dislike so feel free to tell me to fuck right off.

lagerstarfish

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#32 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 09:11:22 pm
cool

is it OK if I get the kids to kick sand in your face?

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#33 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 10:13:23 pm
random list around 7a without sharpness


la conque à doigts
la joker (one fingery move but the hold insn't sharp)
retour au sources
beetle juice
zen
undertow
le nain vert sait
holey moley
gargantoit (may be damp in this season, more of a warm climate problem)


Will Hunt

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#34 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 10:32:27 pm
cool

is it OK if I get the kids to kick sand in your face?

Please, I insist.

dunnyg

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#35 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 02, 2016, 10:40:54 pm
Can i film it?

Paul B

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#36 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 12:19:07 pm
Garagantoit (as mentioned)
El poosah depending on how you go about it / how many goes you go about it for.

Helipcotre and Abbatoir are ruined these days IMO (as is Cortomaltese).

Zen, I thought this was poor (lowball and not amazing rock) likewise for Holey Moley (sequence just feels rubbish) and Biceps Mou (slapping into an awkward dish). These aren't the quality I personally go looking for in Font.

SA Chris

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#37 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 01:17:13 pm
Cortomaltese

One of those percentage problems mentioned earlier that you can slap away at for a day and have nothing to show for it but aching elbows and no skin.

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#38 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 01:30:58 pm
He looks to be about 7ft tall though so I can't imagine it troubling him. Skin loss on such problems are about approach (i.e. not contracting Saltbeef-itis) and just walking away if it isn't happening.

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#39 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 01:31:37 pm
If you're around Isatis, have a look at Iceberg if it's not in the sun. Just round the corner from Poussah / Poussif.

https://bleau.info/isatis/941.html

I don't remember it being harsh on the skin. Quite friendly slopers. More likely to wear out the rubber on your right heel.

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#40 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 01:33:31 pm
Cortomaltese - Since will is 10ft tall he'll piss it. It's got a lot sofetr over time (chipping or erosion)

Iceberg - I found this proper hard.

Richie Crouch

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#41 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 02:28:23 pm
Definitely gargantoit, it's amazing.

Also forgot about satan m'habite, good holds, steep and soft!

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#42 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 02:45:24 pm
To add to those mentioned from memory L'Oblique was good and skin friendly, Ca Pelle Au Logis was a lot of fun on finger friendly holds.

Will Hunt

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#43 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 02:52:18 pm
I would really like to do Gargantoit at some point but this trip is probably not the time. There are 8 people going and dunnyg and I are the drivers. Of the 6 others I think 5 of them are probably going to be operating in the low 6s? My memory of Gargantoit is that it is really the only great problem in the area.

Last time we went to Gargantoit on the last day before leaving for the ferry and Ben did it. I sat and drank beer because my elbows were on fire! In fairness, Ben's were also on fire. Each attempt at l'Aerodynamite the day before had been followed by screams of pain and 5 minutes of face down whimpering on the pad. It was kind of disgusting to watch because it was like some sort of grim S&M scene, but also hilariously funny. I just made a decision to not push further into injury.

the_dom

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#44 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 03:03:50 pm
Duel dans la Lune and Les Pieds dans la Lune at 95.2?

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#45 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 03:06:33 pm
For my trip in April I've been compiling a list of steep problems on big holds that should be fairly skin friendly, though I've also been including slopery slappy problems and mostly ones I haven't tried before so not entirely sure. Here are some that I think haven't been mentioned already:

pensees cachees,, cuisiniere.
le jeu du toit. sabots.
divine decadence isatis
crazy horse apremont
belle gueule, mont pivot
l'egoiste, apremont
l'hyper plomb, apremont
le mouton a 5 pattes cuisiniere.
plastikman isatis
surplomb feuillete isatis
equivogue elephant
lapin ou canard franchard hautes plaines
le flippeur sabots.
ju jitsu apremont
knees. apremont
le flippeur ss 91.1
musclor. buthiers

SA Chris

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#46 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 03:18:02 pm
Cortomaltese - Since will is 10ft tall he'll piss it. It's got a lot sofetr over time (chipping or erosion)

I'm Will's height (6ft 2) and left a fair amount of skin behind. Will weights about the same as my leg though, so might well piss it. I think it's pretty connies dependant. That's my other excuse.

Will Hunt

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#47 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 03:21:43 pm
Cortomaltese - Since will is 10ft tall he'll piss it. It's got a lot sofetr over time (chipping or erosion)

I'm Will's height (6ft 2) and left a fair amount of skin behind. Will weights about the same as my leg though, so might well piss it. I think it's pretty connies dependant. That's my other excuse.

Not sure where you got that figure from Chris. I was actually 12ft 9in last time I measured but I've had a bit of a growth spurt since then.

(I'm 5ft fucking 11)

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#48 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 03:27:09 pm
Fucking giants

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#49 Re: Skin Friendly Font - 6C to 7A+
March 03, 2016, 03:31:12 pm

(I'm 5ft fucking 11)

Are you fuck. I'm 6ft...  :ang:

 

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