[Will Hunt]

I'm 6ft... 

That's what your mum tells you.

[SA Chris]

Fucking giants

Speak up sonny? Can't hear you over the wind.

[Will Hunt]

Ok, so I've put the suggestions into a graded list by area. So many incredible looking problems!

Franchard Isatis
l'Angle Ben's - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) - 7A+
El Poussah - 7A/+

Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille - 6C/+

Cuisinière
Undertow - 7A

Cuisinière Crête Sud
Beatle Juice - 7A+
Excalibur - 7A/+


Petit Bois
L'Oeuf - 7B
La Baleine - 7A/+
Big Jim - 6C


Apremont
Onde de Choc - 7B
Egoiste - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil - 7A

Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Jeu du Toit - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A/6C+

Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A


Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C

Cuvier
Araignee - 7A
Joker - 7A
Holey Moley - 7A
La Conque à Doigts - 7A


Mont Pivot
Pancras - 7A


Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises - 7A


95.2
Le Yaniro - 7A+
Tentation - 7A
Retour aux Sources - 7A


Elephant
La Voie Michaud - 6C


Maunoury
Rababoum - 7A


Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait - 7A/+


Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit - 7A/+

[Sidehaas]

Suggest Le Yaniro at 95.2 and Big Jim at Petit Bois

[nai]

Sorry Will, misunderstanding, Jus D'Orange and Achille Talon shouldn't be on there, I was trying to say that they will chew you up so avoid them.

This next door to Graviton is ok though

https://bleau.info/sabots/764.html

[dunnyg]

Good research will. I like your tactics.

[Will Hunt]

Nice one sidehaas and nai. I've modified the list.

I did Big Jim last year and can't believe its only just been mentioned. Fits the bill perfectly. Petit Bois was such a beautiful crag, really hope we go back this year.

[nai]

And your link to Tentation takes you to Rocher Canon
Here it is:

https://bleau.info/95.2/1747.html

Tried this last year until the sun beat me (get there in the morning), think it's ok on skin.

https://bleau.info/95.2/8456.html


Getting quite very psyched by this thread.  With my Spain trip having fallen through and so many folk out there I'm considering going to visit the areas the family won't go and try problems that need more than a couple of pads.

[Will Hunt]

Fixed

Franchard Isatis
l'Angle Ben's - 7A+
El Poussif (Dune) - 7A+
El Poussah - 7A/+

Franchard Hautes Plaines
Lapin Ou Canard - 7A
Le Surplomb de la Coquille - 6C/+

Cuisinière
Undertow - 7A

Cuisinière Crête Sud
Beatle Juice - 7A+
Excalibur - 7A/+


Petit Bois
L'Oeuf - 7B
La Baleine - 7A/+
Big Jim - 6C


Apremont
Onde de Choc - 7B
Egoiste - 7A
Clin de l'Oeil - 7A

Roche aux Sabots
Le Bond de l'Hippopotame - 7A
Graviton - 7A
Jeu du Toit - 7A
Élucubration / Le Quark - 7A
L'Oblique - 7A/6C+

Roche aux Sabots Sud
Zen

Cul de Chien
Le Toit du Cul de Chien - 7A


Cuvier Est
Festin De Pierre - 7A
Duroxmanie - 6C

Cuvier
Araignee - 7A
Joker - 7A
Holey Moley - 7A
La Conque à Doigts - 7A


Mont Pivot
Pancras - 7A


Rocher Canon
Chasseur de Prises - 7A


95.2
Le Yaniro - 7A+
Indestructible - 7A+
Tentation - 7A
Retour aux Sources - 7A


Elephant
La Voie Michaud - 6C


Maunoury
Rababoum - 7A


Rocher Fin
Le Nain Vert Sait - 7A/+


Gorges du Houx
Gargantoit - 7A/+

[rossydoodle61]

For my trip in April I've been compiling a list of steep problems on big holds that should be fairly skin friendly, though I've also been including slopery slappy problems and mostly ones I haven't tried before so not entirely sure. Here are some that I think haven't been mentioned already:

pensees cachees,, cuisiniere.
le jeu du toit. sabots.
divine decadence isatis
crazy horse apremont
belle gueule, mont pivot
l'egoiste, apremont
l'hyper plomb, apremont
le mouton a 5 pattes cuisiniere.
plastikman isatis
surplomb feuillete isatis
equivogue elephant
lapin ou canard franchard hautes plaines
le flippeur sabots.
ju jitsu apremont
knees. apremont
le flippeur ss 91.1
musclor. buthiers

Jeu du Toit is a good shout. I thought Knees felt pretty hard, but it is just a few moves on big holds.

I wouldn't call Musclor skin friendly though. It's a really fun problem, but the first few moves before the burly, slappy fun were off a horrible, sharp pocket that I think I had to tape my finger up for to take the pain. Could've been low on skin though..

[rossydoodle61]

If you're at Lapin ou Canard, then the left hand exit is worth an addition. I don't remember any nasty holds.

https://bleau.info/plaines/1416.html

[nai]

Just so you know, Roche aux Sabot Sud is barely 50m from the main area so no need to plan a different visit. Well named problem, total solitude just a stone's throw from the circus that is Sabot.

And re Cul De Chien, it's a long walk for a classic but chipped problem with little else there. Could probably use your time a better.

[SA Chris]

Plus there always seems to be a small circus around that problem.

[spid3rz]

Great list, just in time for our easter trip as well! :D

[a dense loner]

I'd take Le yaniro off that list, rearrange the words desperate fucking absolutely.

[Sidehaas]

I did Yaniro in about 5 goes and I'm weak. Felt softish for the grade using a figure 4 (and I'd never used one before!)

[ghisino]

the one just left of yaniro is nice as well.


oh, one skin friendly slab: le nombriliste. may be easier for the very tall.

[a dense loner]

Are you tall sidehaus? I've been there with quite a few people, possibly 20 over the years and no ones done it. All of whom climb 7a+ in 2 goes or less, at least 3 climb 8b. Climbing is certainly bizarre 

[Sidehaas]

Nope, 5ft11 with negative ape.
Key beta was to 'get your leg over' as far as you can - frlt like whole leg rather just your knee.

3min50 here, sorry about the music...

[a dense loner]

Quality little vid sidehaas you could do a lot worse than ignoring all the other suggestions and just tick you way through that vid!
If that's you on controle 'a' and climbing most of the probs then I think it may be safe to assume that you've got the biggest negative ape I've seen

[tommytwotone]

Looking back at some historic ticklists I've found on my computer, in addition to your list above I'd go with:


Franchard Isatis: Boule De Nerfs 7a+  (highball-ish crack to rounded topout, easier for the tall)


https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html


Franchard Sablons: Jokari 7a+ (undercut reach move to arete then a heel-on mantle)


https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html


Also, what about the stuff at Buthiers Piscine - Lady Big Claques, Attention Chef etc?

[Will Hunt]

Looking back at some historic ticklists I've found on my computer, in addition to your list above I'd go with:


Franchard Isatis: Boule De Nerfs 7a+  (highball-ish crack to rounded topout, easier for the tall)


https://bleau.info/isatis/1234.html


Franchard Sablons: Jokari 7a+ (undercut reach move to arete then a heel-on mantle)


https://bleau.info/sablons/615.html


Also, what about the stuff at Buthiers Piscine - Lady Big Claques, Attention Chef etc?

A reach move followed by a heel move, you say?
 

[tommytwotone]

Hey, there's 50% of that problem I'll find easier but I'm betting it won't be the same bit as you...at least you'll have a fighting chance of being able to get as far as the mantle!

[tim palmer]

the crimp on angle ben's is a bit brutal, I thought. 

Le memel at isatis is ace and not too bad on the skin. 

Vaudou-systeme at cuvier is easy on the skin and fun if you are at cuvier and are tall.

[tommytwotone]

Been shopping around on bleau.info I stumbled over this, apparently near to L'angle Ben's:


https://bleau.info/isatis/1516.html


Looks good, not crimpy etc. Usual disclaimer from watching videos of Font bouldering online - that guy could be (and probably is from experience) about 7 feet tall.