[cheque]

Good Effort John.

The big archy break doesn't take a cam. Up left there's a slot for a 4 or 5 rock and it's quite steep up there. Between the dish and the break is pretty steady, you can climb back down as it all positive holds.

Good knowledge. I thought that might be the case- bit of commitment needed after the crux then.

Nice to know the dish- crux bit is OK. It is exactly the sort of thing I'm prone to puntering about on and screwing flash attempts up on though!

[kelvin]

Nice one on Fisheye John! Just been chatting to Ally on the other channel - hoping he ticks it in short time too.

[fried]

M - Rest
T - Hard session, back on my indoor project (6C+), didn't make any further moves, but found a way of making the last move I can do a 50% move instead of a 5% move, which was really pleasing, the solution was simple; don't look at the hold you're going for, but move parallel to it until in balance. Not a great session, bit tired.

W- Rest
Th- BM session - 3 sets 45mins
F - Easy session at Arkose, lots of volume, and fun on the free-standing boulder, topping out.
S - More crap weather, so buy some favours by shipping the missus and mother-in-law around Ikea etc.

Su - Sunny, but too much rain in recent days for a shot outside. BM session with new BM app, the set workouts are untouchable, I can do at best 3 finger deep pockets. But did 2 longer sets of 6 hangs. Tough. Had a 2h break and planned to do another 2 sets, but barely made the first. I'm trying to do 2 finger pocket, and int 4 finger pockets at the bottom by taking some weight off using my tiny skirting boards in my socks to get used to the holds.

[Sasquatch]

  I finally clip the chain with much joy and relief and lower off into the tree at the bottom with Ally having to climb the first 3 m of the route to get down on an 80m rope!  YYFY!

I am really happy to have finished this route and glad all the training has paid off.  I looked back at my Power Club entries from last year and it made me realize the amount of mistakes I made in my preparation so it has definitely been a good learning experience. 

Way to go!!!!

[nik at work]

Monster performance on Fish Eye

STG - Trad projects
MTG - 8c, age related targets.
LTG - 9a??
BHAG - Bruderliebe

M - nothing, wasted from weekend climbing.
T - BM session, can't remember exactly what I did, which suggests it was probably pretty standard performance wise.
W - BM session, much the same as Tuesday...
T - nowt
F - nowt
S - Full afternoon out, great conditions. Working trad project, made decent progress. Climbed from ground to crux two moves. Hit hold of first crux moves but didn't hang it (and repeat several times). Didn't do second move, it's just a short right hand bump move, probably the smallest move on the route, but it's freakin' desperate. Then did sequence from post crux to the mid height "rest" (it's not) in a couple of overlapping stages, but crucially did them at full weight, previously had a couple of stones worth of weight taken by the rope. Then did moves from rest to top in three or four sections. If feels like it's possible but very hard, it genuinely feels short powerful 8c-ish territory. And pretty spicy at the start to boot. Then I had a go on one of Dougs projects, we reckon it's about 8b but safe. Had some good links and got a decent crux sequence going but I was wasted. A long but excellent day.
S - Beasted squared.

SYKED by projects, want to get Dougs done after he's got them done and also see if my line can be unlocked, and then go to Margalef and crush it to dust. Last year was checking out what 8c feels like, this year is monstering them (hopefully...). Also, tried my new boots on Saturday, Scarpa Boostics, and they are brilliant on the steep stuff, so good that when I got home I immediately ordered another pair.

Positive vibes to everyone

[csl]

Good effort on Fisheye John!

Last week i managed one session at the Westway. Attempted routes up to 7b+ - success up to 7a+.

Time to say goodbye to Power Club though - i'm off to Spain for at least 6 months on Saturday. Cheers for the motivation!

Adios.

[the_dom]

Time to say goodbye to Power Club though - i'm off to Spain for at least 6 months on Saturday. Cheers for the motivation!

Adios.

Epic. Enjoy it.

[Schnell]

STG: get fit for font at easter, don't get injured. 7B in the forest is the aim
MTG. progress, focus on shoulder stability and core/back strength

M. short session while feeling fatigued despite rest day on sun, FB and campussing usual routine plus core and a bit of bouldering
T. rest, decided to lay off shoulder stability stuff for a week after feeling a funny tweak
W. nothing, just usual stretching and 2 hr commute on the bike
T. indoor session, similar to monday, improvements in campussing
F. rest, usual stretching and cycle
S. got out for a decent day's bouldering despite initially unpromising weather, which then actually turned into rail, snow hail combo. before the bad weather rolled in I got a bit done, including a tricky 6C+ mantel and tickled the finishing jug on a 7B ss to a 7A I've done before. Would have had it but for the rain but it will get ticked next week.
S. rest, stretching and couch action

Good week despite feeling very fatigued to begin with. I'm focusing on trying to increase training capacity and ability to take volume but decided to skip a session on tuesday which was definitely a good idea. There's a prospect of a trip to fair head this weekend if the weather holds out so I'm getting a good bit of outdoor stuff in too. Also going to switch to a power phase for the last few weeks before font.

[Dolly]

M Shed and a smart new problem
T loong day in London
W Foundry at lunchtime. I was weak
T Shed again - another even better variation on my new favourite problem
F
S Quick core sess at the Gym
S Beastmaker then lots of weights adn a bit of Bulgarian bag action (known as the dead badger bad in our house)

[kelvin]

Time to say goodbye to Power Club though - i'm off to Spain for at least 6 months on Saturday. Cheers for the motivation!

Adios.

Brilliant - can't wait myself. Here's to Spanish travels :-)