Author Topic: Stanage Challenge  (Read 978 times)

Offline will_h

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Stanage Challenge
« on: June 23, 2014, 10:26:54 am »
As part of next weekend's BMC Stanage Festival a points-based climbing challenge has been devised by Offwidth. It's similar in nature to the Cragsmen event that has proven popular in the Chew Valley, with extra points for visiting obscure routes across the whole crag.

Details here: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/stanage-challenge-BMC-Festival-Climbing

Happy planning.

Offline Sloper

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #1 on: June 23, 2014, 11:31:27 am »
+1 point for top roping, bloody nonsense.  It should be +100 for every top rop you cut.
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Offline Offwidth

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #2 on: June 23, 2014, 01:44:14 pm »
Trust you to spot that. It was to comparatively discourage solos on straight route points. Those of a lawyerly solo bent can explit rule loopholes (like incorporating an especially clever solo theme to woo the judges....maybe one entertainingly related to top rope cutting, since you are such a fearless advocate - rather than an armchair critic - prepared to face the wrath of the law for your ethics) or lead by trailing a rope and put two runners in at the very bottom or very top. Leads get +1 (like tr) and onsights (even solos) an extra +1.
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Offline Snoops

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #3 on: June 23, 2014, 02:12:28 pm »
As part of next weekend's BMC Stanage Festival a points-based climbing challenge has been devised by Offwidth. It's similar in nature to the Cragsmen event that has proven popular in the Chew Valley, with extra points for visiting obscure routes across the whole crag.

Details here: https://www.thebmc.co.uk/stanage-challenge-BMC-Festival-Climbing

Happy planning.

Mmmmh, because stanage isn't already busy/overused especially in June

Offline slackline

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #4 on: June 23, 2014, 02:16:45 pm »
Mmmmh, because stanage isn't already busy/overused especially in June


Already under discussion here with comments from some who are helping organise it.
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Offline Offwidth

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #5 on: June 23, 2014, 02:32:26 pm »
Thanks slackers...just to be clear I think some here forget many if not most of the summer hordes are not aware there is an access issue at Stanage, let alone one as potentially serious as we have. The festival will try and help to educate these folk. The festival challenge encourages spreading of any traffic, especially on routes with no stars (and pure boulder problems are not even included).
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Offline tc

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #6 on: June 23, 2014, 02:55:28 pm »
Makes you wonder how we ever managed without climbing festivals.

Offline Sloper

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #7 on: June 23, 2014, 03:42:40 pm »
Trust you to spot that. It was to comparatively discourage solos on straight route points. Those of a lawyerly solo bent can explit rule loopholes (like incorporating an especially clever solo theme to woo the judges....maybe one entertainingly related to top rope cutting, since you are such a fearless advocate - rather than an armchair critic - prepared to face the wrath of the law for your ethics) or lead by trailing a rope and put two runners in at the very bottom or very top. Leads get +1 (like tr) and onsights (even solos) an extra +1.

I've officially retired from soloing.

But for the BMC to be equating leading with top roping is a serious error of Judgment.

As for the general theme, I'm all for the BMC promoting climbing and once argued for an international punters meet, but this just comes across as a summer intern's idea of what a climbing meet should be, fancy dress FFS, there should be beer, beards and casual sexism / latent homeoerotic banter.  What is the world coming to?

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Offline tregiffian

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #8 on: June 23, 2014, 04:20:29 pm »
There is a concept "Top rope Leading" where the pupil/client has ropes above and behind and places gear on the latter as he ascends.

Offline tc

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #9 on: June 23, 2014, 04:59:42 pm »
There is a concept "Top rope Leading" where the pupil/client has ropes above and behind and places gear on the latter as he ascends.

Oh, FFS!

Offline lagerstarfish

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #10 on: June 23, 2014, 05:10:43 pm »
I like the idea of a no-star climbing festival


Should you meet me at the crag - I'm pretty crap at face to face social interaction - what might seem like me being aloof is actually me trying to control moderate social anxiety - alcohol helps, but I don't take it to the crag

Offline psychomansam

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #11 on: June 23, 2014, 05:52:16 pm »
There is a concept "Top rope Leading" where the pupil/client has ropes above and behind and places gear on the latter as he ascends.

Oh, FFS!

Don't know what's so upsetting about that? Simulated leading is a pretty sensible way of helping people learn to lead, especially those who struggle with the fear or who have less outside experience. If the safety of it is upsetting you, you can always solo up behind them, pulling their gear out and talking about how shit it is (Although I tend to let them freak about remembering how to build a belay first, and then pop up over the edge just as they get in position).
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Offline will_h

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #12 on: June 23, 2014, 05:54:23 pm »
The festival will have all of the usual tried and tested ingredients: BBQ, beer, lectures etc... Offwidth has designed this challenge to add some extra entertainment, and hopefully to encourage people to explore some of the great climbing that isn't at the Popular End or on the Plantation boulders, and it looks like it will do that whether people lead, solo or do whatever they feel like on the day. 

Offline lagerstarfish

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #13 on: June 23, 2014, 06:43:56 pm »
will there be minus points for each square inch of polished rock on a route?
Should you meet me at the crag - I'm pretty crap at face to face social interaction - what might seem like me being aloof is actually me trying to control moderate social anxiety - alcohol helps, but I don't take it to the crag

Offline Sloper

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #14 on: June 23, 2014, 07:28:08 pm »
There is a concept "Top rope Leading" where the pupil/client has ropes above and behind and places gear on the latter as he ascends.

Oh, FFS!

Don't know what's so upsetting about that? Simulated leading is a pretty sensible way of helping people learn to lead, especially those who struggle with the fear or who have less outside experience. If the safety of it is upsetting you, you can always solo up behind them, pulling their gear out and talking about how shit it is (Although I tend to let them freak about remembering how to build a belay first, and then pop up over the edge just as they get in position).

Bollocks, you learn leading by seconding, then a bit more seconding, then leading easy stuff well below your grade.  Top roping doesn't teach people to lead, it doesn't teach them to climb, in fact it teaches them fuck all.

In fact I seem to remember writing an article on the very subject for Summit in 2002 or thereabouts.
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Offline Sloper

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #15 on: June 23, 2014, 07:34:37 pm »
What about the following?

-25 for parking like a twat on the road rather than a parking space
-50 for not putting a few quid in the parking machin3 despite owning a new Audi A4 (or similar)
-20 points for having 'all the gear and no idea'.
-1000 points for shouting 'allez' or 'send it bro'
-1000 for having a Rockfax guide.

+50 points for a proper ground fall (although - 20 if you call out mountain rescue)
+25 for wearing a flat cap, unless you're a hipster in which case you should be tied to a stake and fed to the midges.
+100 for loudly proclaiming, 'come on, it's an easy route for a lass stop being a poof'. (double points if Airlee Anderson / Geraldine Taylor are in earshot)
+1000000 points for ignoring the whole contrived twattery of the competition.

Steve, you're a good sort, but sort it out mate.
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Offline Offwidth

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #16 on: June 23, 2014, 09:23:00 pm »
 :sorry:

No I'm not a good sort, as I now realise I might help cause the death of Stanage, sorry I couldnt follow your consistently heroic lead, I guess we all need to understand when we are much younger; do you do kids parties?
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Offline mrconners

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #17 on: June 24, 2014, 06:19:30 am »
It's all for the good of the sport.
Isn't it?
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Offline psychomansam

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #18 on: June 24, 2014, 06:29:58 am »
There is a concept "Top rope Leading" where the pupil/client has ropes above and behind and places gear on the latter as he ascends.

Oh, FFS!

Don't know what's so upsetting about that? Simulated leading is a pretty sensible way of helping people learn to lead, especially those who struggle with the fear or who have less outside experience. If the safety of it is upsetting you, you can always solo up behind them, pulling their gear out and talking about how shit it is (Although I tend to let them freak about remembering how to build a belay first, and then pop up over the edge just as they get in position).

Bollocks, you learn leading by seconding, then a bit more seconding, then leading easy stuff well below your grade.  Top roping doesn't teach people to lead, it doesn't teach them to climb, in fact it teaches them fuck all.

In fact I seem to remember writing an article on the very subject for Summit in 2002 or thereabouts.

Oh look. You're bigoted on this too. Surprise. I learnt to lead by just going for it and it was great, but some people prefer a gentler start. Simulated leading lets you practice placing gear, which can then be checked, and get used to the idea of being belayed from below. You can slacken off the toprope and let them feel more in control of their own safety.
Perhaps if you could come to understand that not everyone is you and not everyone is like you and that's alright - then you might not be such a political bigot either.
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Offline lagerstarfish

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Re: Stanage Challenge
« Reply #19 on: June 24, 2014, 08:02:06 am »
The challenge must be a pretty good idea - it got me thinking about whether I could have a go and I haven't led anything for years
Should you meet me at the crag - I'm pretty crap at face to face social interaction - what might seem like me being aloof is actually me trying to control moderate social anxiety - alcohol helps, but I don't take it to the crag