[duncan]

Long weekend in Font. coming up. I am heading for Yosemite in 3 weeks but recovering from an elbow tweak so aiming do lots of fairly gentle meterage, ideally in crack form. There are some chimney and offwidth suggestions here but all sizes welcome, hand cracks especially.

What are the team's suggestions?

[Scouse D]

Apremont Crack circuit is BRUTAL

[Tommy]

I spent quite a bit of time looking for cracks in Font and it was a fairly fruitless exercise. There are some but they're fairly spaced out - you kinda have to accept in each area you you might get 3 good problems?

I can't remember the names of any I'm afraid, but I basically just scoured the guides and photos. Most of the cracks that are proper cracks also turn out to be finger cracks rather than hand or offwidth. Jack Geldard found an offwidth roof unclimbed years ago that he sent a photo of.... but I haven't got a clue where it is or where that photo is! Was probably rubbish anyway.

The one that sounds cool is called something like "separate reality" or a french play on words on that, but it was utter turd. Don't bother looking for it.

[Tommy]

Sorry I've just realised the above reply might not be what you're looking for, with a dodgy elbow as I was only on look out for Font 7A crack above and that's not exactly rehab territory!

[finbarrr]

i have no love for cracks, but this one is on my wishlist:
http://bleau.info/gros/1539.html

[Stubbs]

Apremont Crack circuit is BRUTAL

Yep, Apremont Sky Blue circuit http://bleau.info/apremont/circuit21.html gnarly as fuck!

Am I just imagining there's a Beardown vid with some of them, or was it just photos?

[duncan]

Brutal...gnarly as fuck...highball 6c...

All things I wont be doing next weekend!

Anything a little more gentle please?

[SA Chris]

There's a fun hand crack at the back right hand corner of Diplodocus. Probably the most memorable problem there. only a minute or two off the path, worth doing if passing. It might be this
http://bleau.info/diplodocus/6175.html
But it might not. There's a pocket out right which seems to get used a lot, but it's fine to do it without.

[Tommy]

Brutal...gnarly as fuck...highball 6c...

That's a good route name for the next new E2 5c I do at Wimberry. Thanks 

[Stubbs]

Gnarly and nails for us boulderers, but a walk in the park for anyone with Yosemite aspirations I'm sure! You'll see form the link that most of them are in the Font 4-5 range, and the list will also allow you to avoid the ones that are high grades for the circuit.

[Scouse D]

No beardown vid but here's a link to a photo which sums it up nicely
http://www.daveparryphotography.co.uk/the-dreaded-crack-circuit-apremont

[Stubbs]

Nice one Scouse that's exactly the one I was thinking of!

[ghisino]

are suggestions over 7a accepted? there are indeed maybe 3 really good and specific crack problems in the 7a-7c range.
http://bleau.info/fondgorges/22164.html
http://bleau.info/apremontsully/9584.html
http://bleau.info/demoiselles/862.html (i might be there thursday)

anyway, some favourite moderates:

cuvier
-the blue just right of cortomaltese. doing it with jams only is a nice eliminate.
-tuyau morin (chimney in between angle incarné and hypothèse)
-the 3+ 10 meters left of marie rose. A less memorable fist jam crack on the opposite side of same boulder.
-fissure allain

cuvier est
-fissure wherlin. OW left of duroxmanie. first reported boulder problem in font.

rempart
-chimney left of immodium, yellow arrow.

gros sablons
-la fissure de la liberté. 6c highball. weird layback. 5 stars.

elephant
-a slab with two obvious laybackable flakes, part of the blue circuit, not far from le lepreux.

buthiers
-blue crack in between the big parking lot and the main boulders (misanthropie etc). short OW, maybe it is easier to layback it.


 
and finally if you want to do some gardening: "yosemite ou réalité" at videlles. Rumored to be the finest handjam crack in font, but it currently needs extreme measures to be accessed (machete, chainsaw...napalm?)

[SA Chris]

and finally if you want to do some gardening: "yosemite ou réalité" at videlles. Rumored to be the finest handjam crack in font, but it currently needs extreme measures to be accessed (machete, chainsaw...napalm?)

Is that the one Tommy refers to earlier as being utter turd?

[lagerstarfish]

La Grande Marche at Canche The Merciless is a crack which would probably be really hard if you tried to climb it with just jams

[ghisino]

and finally if you want to do some gardening: "yosemite ou réalité" at videlles. Rumored to be the finest handjam crack in font, but it currently needs extreme measures to be accessed (machete, chainsaw...napalm?)

Is that the one Tommy refers to earlier as being utter turd?

not sure.

actually when i went looking for it i quickly bailed...didn't really see the crack though i'm confident that i've been less than 50 meters away.
the problem is located on a quarried wall that might indeed have unfeatured, clean cracks...
but the area is so overgrown with thick spiky bushes that abseiling from the top (if you knew the exact location) might be easier than walking in.
It is very likely that 20 or 30 yrs ago when the crag was discovered, it had been cleaned up by a recent fire or something similar, now it's a complete mess...

Icing on the cake: it's on private property and the landowner does some apiculture...

[Hoseyb]

Not been to font for about 6 years due to the arrival of three lovely agents of chaos, so my memories a bit hazy...

However i was seeking out cracks then so bear with..

Isatis
Looking at the buerre marg or whatever, to the right is the next is a white circuit dyno off a porthole. To its left is a cool little sitter crack on flared jams.

Now the obscure... A little further in is a cluster of blocs with a small clearing in the middle. on the first bloc you approach is an overhanging font7 something arete a bit close to a tree, to its right as you go round are  red and blue circuit slab type affair (I remember 33?) and just beyond this is a wicked little A frame cave with a tasty offwidth roof crack starting off a fist F6Cish

Bas Cuvier
That classic slab (super prestat?) to its left is a black circuit hand to fist crack.

the obscure offering is... Find Marie rose, wander left to the narrow corridor of blocs, on the right is a flared runnel/crack that gave a real fight on a jamming eliminate stylee.

Make of that what you will...

[ghisino]

Isatis
Looking at the buerre marg or whatever, to the right is the next is a white circuit dyno off a porthole. To its left is a cool little sitter crack on flared jams.

this?

[Hoseyb]

Thats the puppy..

Laybacks eh?  Jamming was far more interesting...

[ghisino]

didn't think it was possible to jam it.

i'll try next time i pass by, so i can impress disgust my french buddies once more


ah bonus cracks.
OW to the left of this http://bleau.info/petitereine/1693-51529.html
Never been there, suggested by a friend.

http://bleau.info/envers/12164-36672.html

[fried]

Trivia question alert. There's an 'interesting' crack problem that is also the only problem in Font that isn't on sandstone. Where is it?

[SA Chris]

On the chateau somewhere? Or some other building?

[lagerstarfish]

standing by the side of the D607 wearing a very short skirt and excessive makeup?

[ghisino]

standing by the side of the D607 wearing a very short skirt and excessive makeup?

those are several problems, not just one...


the d607 made me think of the acqueduct. Is it somewhere on it?

[fried]

It's a marked circuit problem, if that helps.