Biscuit - Session on the comp wall, they all feel really hard for the grade? Did about 10 of the problems, up to 6b+. Tried 3 of the 7a's and a 6c+ a lot. Tue - Biscuit - So busy! Got closer than monday on a couple of 7a's on the comp wall. Still felt nails. Then did lots of the red circuit, v3-5
Outdoor sport day - Brean/Portland/Swanage - Any londoners on here want to get out?
A great week, amazed to get six days given the forecast. Blazed a trail of unfinished problems across the North but optimistic that all the problems will go next visit with more pads/balls and/or better skin/attitude.
@ Luke - Sounds like a great week. Have you done much climbing on sandstone slopers? It's a technique that takes quite a bit of time to learn and adapt to. It's such a different type of strength, and a style that rarely "feels" strong IMO. I've never come back from a day of sandstone slopers saying "wow I felt strong". I've had days where I climbed GREAT, but still didn't "feel" strong....
@Luke, like Sasquatch says Font takes some getting used to. Also by the sounds of things your tries on more challenging stuff was time limited, I find it always takes a bit of patience to figure things out there. I take it the family will want to go back?
One lesson this year has been that my fingers are not a weakness, at least relative to several people who much more successful climbers, so there's probably little point in thrashing away at a fingerboard for anything more than maintaining my current level. But considering some routes I would like to project next year, it does feel like I need more "burl" for steeper stuff. Medium-term I am going to revive my ambitions for a solid front lever, which I abandoned in 2011 when I developed shoulder issues. Also going to force myself to attempt boulder problems indoors that don't suit me: typically ~45 degree overhanging and big moves.
My partner is very keen to go back, she's a bit funny with the weather so may try and go abit earlier in the year (She rarely likes climbing if the sun isn't out). Would give us longer days too.The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.
The little one will also be 2 next time we go so logistically may be easier (or harder??) haha.
Yeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".
Quote from: habrich on November 05, 2013, 04:13:46 pmYeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite. To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....
Quote from: Sasquatch on November 05, 2013, 05:55:34 pmMaybe I just need to get on harder stuff that takes a more specific strength. Hmmm ... you do know false modesty is a bannable offence on this site?
Maybe I just need to get on harder stuff that takes a more specific strength.
Quote from: Sasquatch on November 05, 2013, 05:33:48 pmQuote from: habrich on November 05, 2013, 04:13:46 pmYeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite. To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!
Quote from: tomtom on November 05, 2013, 05:42:29 pmQuote from: Sasquatch on November 05, 2013, 05:33:48 pmQuote from: habrich on November 05, 2013, 04:13:46 pmYeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite. To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem. Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.
Quote from: webbo on November 06, 2013, 08:53:35 amQuote from: tomtom on November 05, 2013, 05:42:29 pmQuote from: Sasquatch on November 05, 2013, 05:33:48 pmQuote from: habrich on November 05, 2013, 04:13:46 pmYeah I sort of know that but winter is long and I find it hard to really focus on more than one thing at a time. I'll do some regular sessions on the normal range of BM grips for the next 2-3 months then probably step it up as the climbing season gets closer again. My other observation on this sort of topic is that it feels better to take the training need from a specific route project than a more abstract concept like "my open hand back 3 are weak".The bolded part fascinates me as I view it completely opposite. To me, training is done to increase my overall baseline strength and fitness, where as strength for specific routes is done on the route in question.....I certainly train for certain problem weaknesses.. for the Keel this was lateral core strength and LH lock off capability.. (means side planks and wide arm pull ups/holds). But I (as a rule) dislike training - so if I HAVE to do some it tends to be specific The best training for a problem of course is working the problem though!Have you not just contradicted yourself. If you need to do different training away from the problem in order to do the problem, then clearly the best training is not training on the problem. Didn't Godskins usually build a harder model of the project he was trying, rather than just working the project.Yes, but no, but yes, but no.... What I meant - is that there were times when I could not get to the problem and to train for it I would practice specific exercises when I could not be near to it...
yeah but 10 minutes of planks three times a week, you'd have done Keel second session and saved yourself a dozen trips to the cliff (of course, I know you'd have gone anyway but just have been sat in a different place)