[csl]

Goals - Climb regularly indoors or out
1.40 half marathon - done - 1:38.41

Mon- am 8.5km run - first since injuring achilles pm fingerboard - testing max's and stuff. Set up pulley for assisted one arm hangs and pull-ups.
tue- cycling - 40km at 30km an hour. 
wed- fingerboard - not very strong - need to keep this up
thur-
fri- tried some stuff at burbage no new ticks
sat- nothing
sun- Great Eastern Run - half marathon in 1.38 - happyish but could have been so much better had i not got injured a few weeks ago and had been able to train properly. Not enough miles in my legs really. Feeling painful from about 6 miles, lots of blisters popping at 10 miles, feet were bleeding nicely by the finish. Had to really grit my teeth just to get through it. Some better fitting trainers needed for sure.

[nai]

goals 8a (specifically now, Call Of Nature) & more E4s

M - car tricked me into going to Stanage where it felt much warmer than the 8 degrees it was reading. Bouldered but didn't achieve much (take it you only get the tick for Mounting Frustration if you top out)
t
w
T - Dashed out for an hour in the morning before the rain-that-never-arrived to try Diamond White LH, found it hard, no cigar but have a sequence to go back with

F - Tor, opening salvo on Call Of Nature, couldn't do one move but was nursing skin, confident I'll get it with beta and a bit of effort

S - Malham, had a whizz up Raindogs, got all the moves after a fashion but no chance of linking them this side of winter so moved on.  OS go at Something Stupid to 4th clip, didn't bother with RP, holds too rough. OS go at Frankenstein to last move, couldn't sort feet & fell off.  Got it easy on RP

S Wharncliffe, did some easy highballs then led Autumn Wall, soft I understand but my first E4.

Five days out climbing in a week, makes me feel young again.

[Duma]

Many weeks later...

STG - be fixed enough for font by end Nov
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+
LTG - 8A, 68kg

PC weeks 134 through 137:
Go to the wall once a week, gradually get stronger
Go to the Physio once a week, gradually feel I need this less and less
Sloper hangs, gradually get slightly less shit at them.

PC week 138:
M
T - TCA, still improving, no tweaks from wrist, sloper routine actually felt ok
W
T - TCA, new mothership set gave the arms a proper workout, good fun and tried hard, wrist still pain free, sloper routine ok
F
S - Portland, Blacknor N - 2nd day on a rope on several years, but wrist held up , flashed a couple of 7a's and had a couple of good burns on Popeye Doyle (7c) after sorting the moves, no tick but fun climbing, steeper than your average portland route. Utterly failed on Twangy Pearl (7b)at end of the day though, felt like I'd emptied the tank.
S - knackered.

PC week 139:
M
T - TCA, session on the new mothership again, good intensity, feeling like I'm back to somewhere in the vicinity of a year ago, did tweak wrist on one problem, but seems to have had no lingering ill effects.
W, T, F, S - Apart from a run on Friday (6m, 52min), deliberate few days off for recovery after 4 sessions in 8 days, plus paranoia re wrist tweak on Tues. Wrist seems fine, annoyingly R shoulder appears to be objecting to all the steep stuff on tues, think I've prob worsened it by sleeping funny 
S - TCA, New green (6B-7B) circuit set so played on those. Feeling pretty sluggish but got up a fair few, and wrist seemed to have suffered no lasting setback from tues.

70kg all week  (hence I got off my arse and went for a run on Fri)
Pretty good couple of weeks, seem to be able to take a few more sessions a week, wrist is holding up with no physio for the last fortnight, and form feels not too far off. I'm still grumpy today though as had planned on a day raid to the grit but after a crappy nights sleep couldn't face a 3 hr drive when the alarm went off at 0623. Then got up at 8 to perfect conditions and hated my laziness!

[Nibile]

Mixed week, easier on the training front, not so easy in general.
Mon - rest, finished the bike, went out to show off.
Tue - rest, work all day.
Wed - board. Short links, one PB. Very very tired before starting. Very dry skin. Vol 2/3. Int 7+.
Thu - board. Good links on projects, one PB. Very strong on lock offs. Vol 1/2. Int 6/7.
Fri - board. Good links. One PB. Vol 2. Int 7+.
Sat - board. Good links. Vol 1. Int 7. I trained just to test my mental will.
Sun - board. Good links on various projects. One armers, strong. Bouldering +6 kg, quite strong. Good core. Very dry skin.

So, happy to have trained this week. At school many students are ill with flu or colds, or sore throats, so I'm fighting hard to stay sane. Last week with afternoon teaching - hopefully - for a while. Need some time off.
Getting close to some vacation. Keep the faith.

[Muenchener]

WEEK ENDING 14th OCTOBER

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
Build alpine experience on routes that are [shorter / easier / harder but bolted] than LTG routes by ticking several classics in the V/V+ range in the Dolomites.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M. Visit GP re leg/hip pain. Diagnosis: not sciatica yyfy. Horse tranquilisers Muscle relaxants. Sleep.
T. Beastmaker, core, piriformis stretches
W. Wall, Boulderwelt. Comp training: a dozen easy problems to warm up. Recruitment/power trying moves on hard problems on steep board. Stamina: a dozen problems at around my onsight limit.
T.
F. Wall, Boulderwelt. Comp training: a dozen easy problems to warm up. Recruitment/power: ticked one of my steep board projects. Stamina/mental training: worked half a dozen problems on the comp board, involving committing moves / falling off above my comfort ceiling. Good.
S. Didn't go to UK/US expat meetup in Frankenjura due to dodgy leg & dodgy weather forecast. Both turned out fine. Drat.
S. Wall, Boulderwelt. Not fully recovered from Friday, which is probably good from a training point of view. And managed to (briefly but multiple reps) hang the Beastmaker 45s yyfy.

[andy popp]

Sat - fly to Stockholm
Sun - lovely train journey across Sweden
Mon - work
Tues - work
Wed - work, train to Goteborg, gentle night out, couple of beers
Thurs - return to Jonkoping, work. Walk to local wall, someone tells me it will take 30 mins, it takes nearly an hour. Get there and the girl on the desk says I can't come in because I don't have a 'green card' (I'd emailed ahead, no-one mentioned this) Asks if I've been climbing before. I must look pathetic as she relents. Pay £20 (!!!) to get in. Find a wall that we'd have considered shit in the 80s. And its boiling hot. Do dispiriting 1.5 hours. This all very nearly went in NNFN. If you ever find yourself here don't bother going to the wall.
Fri - work, drink wine
Sat - day off, three and a half hour walk in the afternoon. Realize I'm v unfit.
Sun - work, two hour walk.

[tomtom]

Thought about getting a cheapie bike (folding?) for while you're out there Andy? Might help with exploring and fitness!

[Duma]

Sat - fly to Stockholm
Sun - lovely train journey across Sweden

Hooray for train journeys across Sweden! Me and the missus went canoeing for a few days in Torsby years ago, involved a wonderfully scenic train from Stockholm to Karlstad, then an even more scenic branch line up to Torsby.

[duncan]

STG - SW enchainment TICK!
STG - 7b
MTG - E5
LTG - various highly ambitious LH+F

M - The Arch: Aerobic Endurance (6 x 5 mins)
T -
W -
T -
F -
S - SW Hard Rock routes: Suicide Wall, Bow Wall, Bishop's Rib, Moonraker, Coronation Street, Malbogies
S - Malbogies continued...

The SW Hard Rock routes make a satisfying 24 hour challenge. There is fair bit of driving but no really long stretches. Because of the Cheddar season and Berry Head bird-ban, this only goes in Autumn or Winter with consequently limited daylight. The plan had us finishing Coronation Street in the light but delays in Torquay due to roadworks meant we did the last couple of pitches (and all Malbogies) by head-torch.  Completing all in the light (you have about 7 hours climbing time) would be impressive! 

[andy popp]

Nice one Duncan, that enchainment sounds great.

[fried]

The rain looks like it's never going to stop.

Monday - Indoor, Look around my crappy old wall but can't find anything I want to do. Just do some easy stuff I've done a million time. Lots of back exercises. 3 more months left on my contract before I can change wall. Missus tells me that if I look that miserable for the next 3 months then to just start another contract elsewhere.

Tuesday - work
Wednesday -New wall (blocbuster) excellent session.
Thusday - Friday - work
Saturday - Another good indoor session
Sunday - Tired.

Weight 75.0kg

[tomtom]

m:
t: Wall
w:
th
f: wall
s:
su:

[tommytwotone]

LTG: Font 7b

M: Depot, getting back into climbing a bit harder
T: nowt
W: Depot, campus session
T: Cellar board
F: Nowt
S: Nowt - away in Northumberland but no climbing
S: Nowt - back to Yorkshire but no climbing

[TobyD]

M gym, weights + 20 minute cardio / warm down on a bike
T nowt, other than crutching a couple of miles and signing for a new flat.
W gym  weights / core + 20 minute cardio / warm down on a bike
T  gym, weights / core + 20 minute cardio / warm down on a bike
F gym 3000m row + weights + 2000m row
S 5K row + weights / core
S 5K row + easy weights + 10 min bike. The stunning quality of the Murray tennis final made the gym much more bearable - inspiring. (I am normally not really into tennis, but this was amazing)

Weights usually pyramids of  8/6/4/6/8/ reps with a one increment weight increase with descending rep number, ideally failing on the final rep or two of the last 8 set. Christ, I'm glad I usually go climbing, or running on the moors. The gym has a certain mindless appeal I suppose...   

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: F7c+, 8a...Brown F7c@ the works, some good grit problems over the winter. Not spanner meself.
M: Board - Hard!
T: Works - Not quite so hard, good circuit of problems - did brown to previous highpoint.
W: Houndkirk Tor with Fnid... Good circuit up to 6c.
T: Rest
F: Rest
S: Works - Easy circuit then on the brown - exceeded previous highpoint (basically felll off the very last move!!!) Frustrating but positive - think the whole wall heard my expletives
S: Reggae in London...

Did a fair bit - Brown's going down! Psyched to train and climb grit....

This week: More, more, more......

:D

[shark]

11.6-7

M. Eve. Foundry with Ben. Good session on new problems
T. Eve. Foundry with Poppy. Rubbish on Wave so stopped
W. Weighted deadhangs-disappointing session
T.
F.Weighted deadhangs-disappointing session
S. Full-on day of garden clearance
S. Went to tor for bolting workshop but didn't climb or bolt even

Last week's Deadhang PB's appear to have been a peak - the 3 sessions since have been poor by comparison though still consolidated at a higher level than where I started from. Not sure whether to take a break from it or keep plugging on with the cycle.

Climbing syke is at a low ebb. Going to focus on strength/power training until xmas. Getting settled in the new gaff. 

[andy_e]

STG: See Sunday
MTG: Seven Seas
LTG: Seven sea plus.

M: Nothing
T: Rocky Valley night session. Great fun, threw laps on Energetic Follow Through. Tried Sweet Dreams stand but the light died too soon. Tried First Arete beforehand and remembered the beta too late. It's still 7D though.
W: was going to go indoors but felt ill so didn't.
T: ClimbNE. Did purple circuit to warm up, nearly finished the pink circuit then moved on to polishing off some reds.
F: nothing
S: Nottingham beer festival. Drank at least 9 pints of various different ales.
S: Earl Crag. Had a good warm up in the usual spot then did Handy Andy's in a few goes. Tried the Flakes briefly but then moved on to the Gimp with the others. Got close but slapped the wrong but of the arete, fell off and the mat I landed on slipped down the hill, taking my foot but not me with it. Cue horrendous cracking noise and lots of swearing. Manage to hobble around a bit and rotate it so it's not broken, but it still hurts. NNFN. Ibuprofen and ale help. Thankfully I can still climb on it but it hurts in some positions.

[iain]

STG - SW enchainment TICK!

M: BM recruitment, one arm work
T: 3x5 min repeater sets, half crimp, 5kg assist. Failed later than last week
W: BM recruitment, one arm work. Poorer session
T: Repeater sets but wasn't feeling good. 1x5min and 2x4min, all at lower intensity than previously. Maybe should have stopped but wanted to get the time on the fingers.
F: Rest
S: Mostly physical house stuff 7.30 till 6 to get it done. Knackered.
S: Great to meet Ian Day 1 on IG. Perfect conditions. Put the clips in feeling ok and then made a rookie error with the way I came down to land on dry rock and totally stuffed myself. 2nd go was useless.
M: Day 2. Crux approach missing the waves then 1 decent go. Feeling powered down so concentrated on refining sequences and rest options. Have now realised I didn't look at the last hand's off rest when it's most needed, doh!

I was quite disappointed with how I got on as in many ways I felt weaker/less fit than I did 5/6 weeks ago. However, after thinking about the week it was really busy, getting the training in was hard work and lots of poor sleep so maybe not a surprise.
Got a lot of useful beta watching Ian bounce up it and once I've checked out the last rest properly I'll try for links. Hopefully back this weekend.