[shark]

11.7

M. Day. Weighted deadhangs - disappointing. Considered taking a break from it. Eve Strength/ Power 1 in Shed and on Foundry campus board
T.
W.Day weighted deadhangs - another shit session  . Shed + Foundry Strength/Power 2
T,
F. AM Weighted deadhanging - rubbish again. Did some lock-off on systems board. PM Found myself psyched and went in Shed and did a single 10 sec deadhang with 40kg which was 7.5kg better than my PB  . Also held it for 3 secs at 45kg. Eve Shed + Foundry Strength/Power 3
S. 5hrs Pressure washing and brushing patio and driveway
S. Tor. Felt strong on Weedkiller and fell off the last move. Intended doing some bolting but too busy. Eve. 1hour pressure washing etc

First week doing Zippy's campus based workouts with some trepidation. Despite some worrying elbow area pains during the sessions have been OK following day. Phew!

 

[cheque]

STG: 7A boulder and E2 trad on grit this season.

Back from the USA! Won't do a day-by-day list but suffice to say it was ace. It took me 30 seconds to find cool partners for the entire trip and I made psyched friends from all over the US.  The Red is an amazing area and I'll definitely be going back next October, particularly as I left so many unfinished projects!

New PBs over there- .11c onsight and .11a onsight as a warmup. Didn't manage my target of .12a redpoint: although I felt as if 12b or even higher was feasible on the first couple of days I then tweaked my hip (seriously underestimated how front-on you're forced to climb there) and was limited to 4-5 pitches a day to keep it under control. To 'git endoornce' there you really need to be doing 8 steep pitches a day minimum so I never reached the level where I could climb cruxes well after pumpy climbing. Although I had a few .12a projects I reckoned were goers in the last three days, I took a huge inverted fall straight after warming up on the first of these which wrecked my head and made climbing anything pushy feel totally unenjoyable (anyone who follows my posts on here might remember that I had another big 'flipper whipper' on trad in August that I'd only just got myself together after) so actually ended the trip climbing 10s- easier than what I was doing when I first got there! 

Anyway, onwards and upwards. I'll just do today for this week's powerclub entry.

S- First visit to Nottingham Depot. Seriously cool to have proper training facilities in Nottingham- warmed up on some nice problems (definitely have more power since US trip) then got stuck into the circuit board for the solid pump I now seem to be addicted to. With facilities like this it's basically now down to how I apply myself as to how strong (or injured...) I get. 

[duncan]

STG - 7b
MTG - E5
LTG - various ambitious LH+F

M - The Arch - bouldering with corniceman - good to catch up with the (even older) fellow.
T -
W - Deadhangs: Micro-session.
T - 1km run
F - The Arch farewell party.  Attended to pay my respects and did a little desultory bouldering amongst the crowds
S - 1.5km run
S - The Biscuit - easy bouldering

Gentle week after last Saturday's exertions.  Probably not going to get onto real rock for several more weeks due to various social obligations so I think I can kiss my trad. ambitions goodbye for this year.  Time to attempt to get a bit stronger.     

[TobyD]

M rowing 2 x 2000m weights, core, few repeaters on rock rings.
T light weights & core, not much else
W rowing 2 x 2000m weights, core
T rowing 2 x 2000m, weights, core
F rowing 2 x 2000m, weights, core. Dead hangs and repeaters on rock rings
S rowing 2 x 2000m, weights, core
S rowing 2000m, free weights, lock offs, general shoulder strengthening, 15 min bike, a shit load of crutching....

The highlight of my training week was realizing that it's pretty easy to read whilst on a bike in the gym. Gyms are ok, but still sh*t compared to even a lame climbing session / running or biking outside.  How do 'normal' people to it? I'd rather just be fat.

[csl]

Mon - rest
Tue - fingerboard
Wed - KK - some progress on V9 on the 45. Campussing
thu-
fri-
Sat - tried to run - left leg is fucked since HM - achilles, hamstring and calf all painful.
Sun

nice one cheque on .11c onsight! The red river gorge looks wicked!

[Muenchener]

WEEK ENDING 21st OCTOBER

STG (this year): Steep pumpy 6b onsight, 7a redpoint.
MTG (2013):Continue to build alpine rock experience by ticking one or more long (> 20 pitches) routes and one or more big classic VI's.
   (2013):Nostalgic trip back home - Welsh trad E2
   (????): Place in top half of the field in a local boulder comp.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M.
T.
W. Wall, Thalkirchen. Token routes session in an otherwise bouldering-focused month. 5b 5c 6b 6a 6b 5c 6b+
T.
F. Wall, Boulderwelt. Comp training: working projects on steep board for power/recruitment then a dozen onsight-limit-ish problems for stamina
S. 
S. Multi-pitch alpine sport, Karwendel: taking advantage of freak autumn heatwave for what might the last chance of the year to get into the mountains without a snowboard.

[tomtom]

I think I may start my own thread called log-club... It's been one of those weeks...

Too busy with work all week to have much energy left over - and a slow to shift cold are grinding me down...

Friday, ok 90min at Stockport wall
sun Helsby. Spent 30 min faffing and drinking tea. Nearly flashed the hard traverse, then lost energy etc.. Went home.

Sleeping badly most nights too onwards and upwards....

[andy_e]

Stiff upper lip TomTom, it's just a psyche/energy lull and things will be back soon.

STG: Heel-toe locks with left foot
MTG: 7C again
LTG: 7C+

M: Almscliff with a knobbled ankle. Fine to climb on unless I had to put weight through my toes when they're flagged against the wall, or pressing up against a roof. Managed a few classics on the circuit though and had a very brief go on Stu's Roof which might be on.
T: Went to CityBloc but didn't climb. Wandered around, ankle swelling reduced.
W: Nothing, swelling reduced further.
T: Nothing, reduction in swelling.
F: Nothing, less swollen.
S: Nothing, almost no swelling.
S: Burbage North, on a warm Sunday afternoon. Mistake. Punters everywhere (including me). Greased off that 6B+ on Remergence wall a million times, then worked out I was doing it wrong. Didn't even try Remergence, it looks crap and the start hold was minging. Moved on to Higgar Tor. Far cooler, great conditions, but my skin was rinsed and my ankle hurt. Did some nice easier problems, then tried Hanging Arete quickly and saw the mist rolling on so moved on to try Piss quickly. Tired and cold, I gave up but spotted Ru as he made some very good links on Shit. The mist was rolling in by this point and it was very atmospheric and eerie. Went to the Kelham Island Tavern afterwards. Fantastic beers, even more fantastic prices.

Ankle feeling better, but nowhere near full mobility on it and still have to be careful on it in various positions.

[rich d]

Goal peak font 7a before xmas
Sun nada was supposed to be working beachball but due to a wife's family crisis didn't.
Mon work nada
Tues fingerboard sess tried to work through the beastmaker 6a ap session no chance
Wed nada
Thur nada
Frid went to depot notts for first time - class although I ran out of steam fairly quickly
Sat drinking
Sun recovering
This week's goals
3 fingerboard sessions (finger strength is my main weakness)
Good session indoors at glasgow on wed night when away with work
No alcohol during week
Stretching and core exercises each day.
Get out on sunday weather dependant.

[Duncan Disorderly]

Goals: F7c+, F8a, Brown F7c circuit @ The Works and some nice grit problems up to 7B this winter.

M: Board - Steady.
T: Works - Fell off last move on brown - literally had it in me hand and slipped off just before moving down onto starting holds - 
W: Rest
T: Works - Rinsed brown first go... YYFY  (been a while since I said that!)
F-Sun - Wiring van in preparation for Font at half term.....

Finally got that brown monkey off my back! - hardly a worthwhile summer project by usual standards but given the apalling summer I'll take it... Good to benchmark my fitness in preparation for a winter of training for Ceuse and Peak lime in the summer. Will keep on keeping on and do a bit of grit when the conditions are right. Looking forward to Font but skeptical about the weather.....

This week: Work out a plan, finish the van!

:D

[Nibile]

Good week!
Mon - Beast. One arm max. 2 sets + 2 sets. Very strong on front 3 and back 3.
Tue - rest. Work all day.
Wed - weights. Snatch, deadlift, press. Very strong. Vol 8/9. Int 9.
Thu - bouldering! Very strong!
Fri - bouldering! OK but a bit tired.
Sat - bouldering! OK but tired, too much volume, skin issues. Vol 7/8. Int 7+.
Sun - bouldering! Strong but too warm. Vol 10. Int 9.

So, an intense week made easier by visiting friends from Sheffield and from the world (Keenus and Caroline)! Bouldering on rock, having fun despite being on the same problems, all is good. On vacation this new week, hopefully I'll manage to go somewhere new!
Keep the faith.

[fried]

Second week running where I manage 3 sessions. Nothing has sprained/ strained or snapped yet.

Touch wood.

Monday - 3rd session in 5 days. Tired, not great.
Tuesday - rest
Wednesday - Indoor. Better.
Thursday/Friday - Nothing
Saturday - Indoor. O.K.
Sunday - it finally stops raining. Can I go to the forest? No, I have to help the sis-in-law with moving house. Put things in boxes. Did manage to snaffle 7 pairs of jeans.

I'm finding 3 days a week tiring but I think I need to plan my meals better. Especially as I never have breakfast

All session consist of warm up + 1h bouldering + 1h back/ hamstring stretches+ core. 45 minutes or until exhausted boulder. Probably not an ideal regime especially as I'm mixing some deadhangs/ repeaters into the core section.

Weight - 75.6kg

Happy to be doing so many session without too much pain. Also nice to be getting back into a routine since the summer's relapse.

I'd really like it to not rain when I'm free to go outside.

[nai]

goals - Call Of Nature then boulderisation

M - should have been resting but poor forecast for Tue & Wed forced me into a fifth day on.  Got all moves on CoN, now just need to get the "easy" finish absolutely wired then start Redpointing

t - work finished unexpectedly an hour early and the glorious evening sunshine was too tempting. Another struggle with DWLH, no cigar but a nice evening enjoying the wildlife.

w - No rain! Family due back today so out to Stanage Right to mop up a few problems I'd not done. Unfortunately wet tops means there's still a few to go back for.
t
F - Felt a bit grotty but headed out for a short easy day. Soon became apparwent that teh Ultimate Gritstone Exp wasn't going to be dry so faffed around in the GW pit for a while before sense got the better of me.  Started to do Slackers' survey but got too tired after a few pullups and sacked it.

ss - nowt/grotty

Should be happy with 4 days out but would have preferred 2 sessions at the Tor, the clock's ticking on CoN, been let down again this morning (although admittedly the Tor was in workable nick not redpoiting nick which is the stage my mate's at on his route).

[iain]

Took it easy this week in anticipation of getting back on Infinite Gravity.

W: Recruitment session, one arm work
F: Short recruitment session
S: IG was gopping, top traverse was unclimbable, (at least by us). Refined sequence for the rest of the route with some short links and found the last knee bar rest which is painful and will benefit from a pad.
S: After Sat's conditions sacked off to Winspit. Couldn't be bothered working anything so had a mileage day.

Despite the conditions Saturday was really positive. Felt good on all the moves and confident that with decent conditions I could have a good go. However, it's 3 weeks before I can get back and I'm fairly sure that's it for the season. Beta has been written down and filed for next year.

Have non-climbing things to focus on for a while, so not that I train properly anyway but I'm going to take a break.

[i_a_coops]

missed a week due to incompetence.
T - Forest Rock. I love this place! Did some really cool easy stuff, did almost all the moves on Enchantress. Will return.
W - Westway routes. Nice to see the stamina improving a bit, onsighting 7as. Attempted some aerocap climbing up and down 6bs repeatedly, unstructured.
T - Biscuit. 20 move grey circuit x 6 with 4 min rest in between, then did another few laps of an juggier 20 move circuit. I hear 20 moves is actually somewhere between ancap and aeropow so will try and adjust.
F-S
S - Infinite Gravity with Iain  . Amazing route! Think it might be possible this year but only just, and only if conditions allow.... Many thanks to Iain for putting the clips in and incredible hospitality, duly wadded.
S IG again. Refined sequence, some good rests. holes in skin
M-T core
W Westway. Fell off last move of a 7b+ on the comp wall. Unstructured aerocap + route 4x4s on steep jugs.
T-F still got holes in skin. core
S Promenade. Everything wet apart from a merely damp 7b+, did that.
S Winspit. Souls of Mischief 3rd tie in with abysmal climbing technique, nearly flashed a 7b+ but punted it. Arse.
Will have to add Enchantress and Infinte Gravity to my ever-expanding list of projects, and hope the weather improves.

[Duma]

STG - be fixed enough for font by end Nov
MTG - multiple 7C's this winter, 7C+
LTG - 8A, 68kg

M -
T - TCA eve, medium session with LukeH, wrist holding up well, shoulder not improving. Tidied up a few greens, got moves sorted on one that feels like it'll be hardish.
W - run, 6m, 48:53. pleased with improvement.
T -  beer
F - help friend move house - shoulder does not like this. more  beer
S - walk up sugarloaf with hangover, then back to bris for more beer
S -

70kg all week

started well, deliberately not climbing after tues to give shoulder a rest, but moving on fri seems to have cancelled any recovery. the three boozy nights in a row haven't helped the weight either I'd imagine. Shoulder still sore now (tues eve) so prob going to avoid the wall till fri.

[Fiend]

How do 'normal' people to it? I'd rather just be fat.

MP3 player and a lot of drum and bass, the harder and nastier the better. And not having any choice in the matter. And no, you wouldn't rather be fat.