[Three Nine]

I've been there quite a lot since it opened and thought i would offer some constructive criticism about what i feel prevents it from being a good training facility (something which is much needed in Bristol), just in case any TCA bods read this. It looks like they're doing very well and so i wouldnt expect anyone to care about what i think, it just seems such a shame that it isn't the facility it could be. What do people think?

Problems:

No training board (despite lots of space). A 40 degree board with a ton of small holds would make people there to train happy and be very easy for them to set up.

No screw-ons, and so big footholds.

The most skin-intensive holds it is possible to have. I have not yet finished a session due to muscle fatigue, its always my skin that goes. This is not the case for me even at most other commercial walls.

An obsession with 'technical' problems. Not very good for training rock technique as doesn't really translate to rock. Would it hurt to have a few more 'basic' things to get you strong?

Its much much too hot and sweaty and its only April. I am told they have some ventilation system, but it seems they dont think its hot enough to switch on.

These are of course only negative points. It has many good points too! What do people think?

[account_inactive]

I think it would have been better to just talk to the guys who run the wall rather than spraying shit on here

[St Hubbins]

I'd agree the problems were 'samey', but i think thats because the majority seemed to be Holdz medium set. They need more whorish slopers and nazi crimps.
No point me telling managment that, doubtful i'll be working down that way for another couple of years

On a brighter note, there were some hot ass ladies in there.

[Three Nine]

I think it would have been better to just talk to the guys who run the wall rather than spraying shit on here

I'm not 'spraying shit'? I spoke to Paul about this some time ago, but nothing has changed. The idea of posting here is that if other people have felt the same then there is more chance of things changing.

[account_inactive]

So you spoke to Paul and he's not changed the holds quick enough for you?  From what I gather these guys have made a HUGE investment to bring Bristol a bouldering centre.  Holds cost money and it's not surprised that it might take a little longer than you expect. 

That's genius. You puntered me twice hahahaha. 

[Will Hunt]

Dylan your remonstration is way overblown. He isn't "spraying shit". I'm sure the management of any such establishment is open to a little criticism so that they know what needs changing and what needs to stay the same. Perhaps you could also talk about some of the good points, Three Nine?

[butters]

It seems to me that having a single place to offer up suggestions and constructive criticism (and that is what I see Three Nine's OP as) where the owners of the said wall can address any suggestions for all to see without having to repeat themselves ad nauseum is a positive thing. The ClimbingWorks doesn't seem to have fared too badly from having a thread of a similar nature on here and it would seem that certain things such as the training board have come about as a result of it.

bluebrad

[Rabies]

I think its important to get the right balance of problems at any serious training facility.  Happened to check out the climbing academy website last night as I may be working in this neck of the woods come the end of the year and it does have a lot of potential. 

If its just you telling the management what you think could be improved, chances are that they might not take much notice.  If you can get some other people to give their advice maybe you can start to get the ball rolling a little bit.  Maybe they just haven't got the cash yet to be spending on new holds?  The training board shouldn't really be an issue at all as there are a few suitable panels that could be used for this purpose but they just need more holds on.  Were all the problems set by one setter or a combination of setters?

If they do buy new holds though, get them to buy some core and bleaustone holds, they're awesome!

[St Hubbins]

and bleaustone holds, they're awesome!

Amen to that. The big font slopers are sexual chocolate!

[Fiend]

It seems to me that having a single place to offer up suggestions and constructive criticism (and that is what I see Three Nine's OP as) where the owners of the said wall can address any suggestions for all to see without having to repeat themselves ad nauseum is a positive thing. The ClimbingWorks doesn't seem to have fared too badly from having a thread of a similar nature on here and it would seem that certain things such as the training board have come about as a result of it.

Spot on. Dylan you're out of line here, it is a fair topic, climbing walls are not sacred, there is room for improvement and fair and polite criticism is part of that.

[a dense loner]

it does look like dylan got out the wrong side of the bed yesterday. out with cowboyhat the night before, you do the math

[Simon S]

The most skin-intensive holds it is possible to have. I have not yet finished a session due to muscle fatigue, its always my skin that goes. This is not the case for me even at most other commercial walls.

A criticism of HOLDZ rather than the climbing academy? Besides they are getting plenty of the new Core holds on the circuits which are brilliant

We must bear in mind that the academy has only been open for a matter of 4 months, and so its a bit early to get all hot and bothered over. After all, they have raised the bar in terms of the facilities that are offered so there is no real reason to doubt that they will endeavour to cater for as many of their customers as possible. Unfortunately it must be appreciated that a hardcore training facility is really only required for the select few and not the masses. From a business perspective it is advantageous to keep the majority happy rather than appeasing the few.

I do however agree that a steep board with lots of small holds would be welcome, but then again I have my own board at home for that

All I can say is, be patient and give them a chance.

[Ged]

I'm with you on the training board, but not sure where it would go.  Maybe stick loads more holds on the circuit board? that would make it easy to make up training problems.  With you on the temperature thing too, it gets pretty hot in there.

Apart from that, it's brilliant.  I think there's plenty of thuggy problems, as well as the technical ones.  A few more big volumes would be good.

And the ginger flapjack is like crack

[jern]

  With you on the temperature thing too, it gets pretty hot in there.

I reckon it's got a LOT better since they worked on the ventilation. I was there on Wedneday and despite it being warm and humid out it seemed fine inside.

 

A few more big volumes would be good.

Half agree with this - they need to be wisely used otherwise whole sections of wall can be fucked up (albeit temporarily) - the UCR cellar boards used to be (still are?) regularly ruined by novelty comp problems. The huge ball shaped things being especially log!

At the end of the day it's a fucking good facility and is evolving.