Yorkshire Open Projects

[dunnyg]

How much for that apple munching stunners number, will?

 

[SA Chris]

Black and White, crop square - will look like the album cover to his new LP - Yorkshire Open Projects

 

[Will Hunt]

Was mooching round Eavestone over Christmas and this caught my eye. Went back and spent a bit of time cleaning which mainly involved digging a load of mud off the top and scrubbing off lots of moss. Needs some more work after a dry spell or when it warms up a bit. Tree belays at the top to ab down.

This is the arete of the boathouse bluff which is the buttress to the left of the crevasse where the hard bouldering is. There's an E4 6c that does a hard pebble pull over on the left before shuffling along a little ledge to get to the arete. Then mantels the big rounded boss of the ledge (probably quite scary). There's also an E2 5c that hand traverses the low break and climbs the arete on its right side. I thought a direct might be a cool highball, but after a quick play decided to sack it off. It's there for anyone who fancies it.

James Turnbull did this recently and graded it 7B+. Climb the arête on the left before switching back right for the top mantel (as for the E2).

 

[SA Chris]

Who owns Eavestone, and what would it need to get some of the trees chopped down. I've been a couple of times and it's a stunning spot, but I found you climb what's dry / not green rather than doing what you would like.

 

[Will Hunt]

Not sure, but I suspect that different bits might be owned by different people. I'm not convinced that much tree clearance is necessary. In my experience the stuff that gets traffic does stay clean and the stuff that doesn't get done gets dirty - same as anywhere else.
A targeted clean up and an accompanying Vimeo video of the problems cleaned would sort it out. If you want to generate traffic on a problem you have to video it with an HD camera from several angles and put some shit music over the top. People don't climb problems that haven't been videoed recently and had shit music put over the top. It's simply not done.

I actually think the next step with guidebooks might be to make them a bit more like those cheesy musical birthday cards. When you open it at a page which covers some underloved boulder that needs traffic it starts to play some sik riddims from an onboard tinny monotone speaker.

 

[Fiend]

I'm psyched for Eavestone to get more attention. Not really near the area now but if it helps I can choose some shit music to accompany the videos??

 

[Will Hunt]

To be honest Fiend, you'd have the time of your life on a day at Eavestone. If trad between HVS and E3 is your bag then all the following stay clean (despite the hollow stars in the guide):

The Alamo - E2
Oubliette - E2
Hallmark - E3 (going on E1 if you find the kneebar on the crux)
Probably loads of other stuff on the front of the Fort (like Excalibur) up to E4.
Eavestone Wall - E3, and the easiest E3 6b in the world to onsight, despite it actually being a 6b move.
Crazy Paver - E2
Eavesdropper - HVS
Wedgewood - HVS
Fat Chance - E3

That's an awesome day out by anyone's yard stick.

 

[SA Chris]

The Wedge is an amazing looking bit of rock, quite spectacular, but looks like it gets climbed on once or twice a year.

A couple of felled trees (or even just carefully selected branches) would really help it get some light and air.

 

[Will Hunt]

The wall between the crack and arete at Amphitheatre Buttress, St Ives. The pocket near the bottom of the seam is good (accessible from a good hold down and left), and you can reach from there to get a good pocket near the right arete. You can get a kneebar in under the roof to reach the high "pocket" but this is nowhere near as good as it looks - actually just a shit sloper. Alternatively there's a little intermediate dish on the LHS which can be used to access the top "pocket". From there I suspect you'll have to match and throw for the top or use a pebble.

Looks piss but probably 7B+ or above. The undercut nature of the start makes it feel quite overhung. Might be worth a star when it gets done but I wouldn't say it's going to be stellar.

https://www.instagram.com/p/CLZS58XjmuM/

 

[Fiend]

To be honest Fiend, you'd have the time of your life on a day at Eavestone. If trad between HVS and E3 is your bag then all the following stay clean (despite the hollow stars in the guide):

The Alamo - E2
Oubliette - E2
Hallmark - E3 (going on E1 if you find the kneebar on the crux)
Probably loads of other stuff on the front of the Fort (like Excalibur) up to E4.
Eavestone Wall - E3, and the easiest E3 6b in the world to onsight, despite it actually being a 6b move.
Crazy Paver - E2
Eavesdropper - HVS
Wedgewood - HVS
Fat Chance - E3

That's an awesome day out by anyone's yard stick.

How bizarre that I missed this.
Alamo - did in 2019 after getting a friend to scrub it, varied and nice
Hallmark - did decades ago and was good fun, E2 without the kneebar.
Did the E2 on the right wall (King Of The Castle?) on the same day as Hallmark and thought the E1 bit low down was poky. Did the E1 6a further right on the same day as Alamo and that was fun.
Wedgewood - did decades ago.
Fat Chance - ditto, good line!
Last time I checked that area was getting pretty damn grubby. Maybe it's improved via regular monsoons, increase in jungle over time, lockdowns, and the death of trad climbing??

 

[YorkshireTea]

Good timing to see this thread, tried this wall at Bridestones recently and couldn't touch it. Maybe been done before(?) it's just next to Obscene Cleft. Diagonal striations make for some really cool but very slopey holds, out right is a very good heel toe but sadly the rock where it undercuts at the bottom is poor. Couldn't get past pulling on

 

[Will Hunt]

Just to the right of the eastern arete of Barrel Buttress at Attermire is a nice vertical flake-line. It's obviously been looked at before because the starting footholds have been brushed. It may even have been climbed but not recorded. It's probably mid-upper 6s. The landing isn't too bad but make sure you pad it properly and don't punt the finishing moves! A belay can be arranged at the top with an assortment of cams, wires and offsets.

 

[Will Hunt]

Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?

 

[haydn jones]

low right start to the prow at caley crag.

really nice holds. good starting hold. seems to lack one hold to get into the start of the normal prow. i would predict 8B minimum

 

[teestub]

Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?

This always struck me as a great bit of rock architecture, but maybe not one made for quality climbing?

 

[36chambers]

Seeing the recent exploits of the Aidanwad reminded me of that arch to the right of Cypher at Slipstones. It's so obvious that it must surely have been tried by absolutely everyone over the years. Does anybody know if anyone has got close to it or whether any of the current crop of wads have had a look at it?

This always struck me as a great bit of rock architecture, but maybe not one made for quality climbing?

agreed, looks good from afar and nasty up close.

More importantly, has anyone had a properly look at the Cypher sitter? From memory it looks almost too easy to be true.

 

[Will Hunt]

Really? I didn't think it looked that bad. The holds are small, but that's what you get on a hard boulder.