Yorkshire Grit tomorrow - Wharfdale - Recommendations.

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SamT

SamT

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Joined
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Location
Sheffield..Westside
So, to my eternal shame, I've not really climbed on yorkshire grit much and have the opportunity tomorrow.

Dropping son off at Timble, north of Otley at 10.30 and have to collect him at 3.00. (Orienteering event)

Forecast looks to be mint.

In the past, I've bouldered at Caley which is the only place I'm vaguely familiar with and climbed very briefly at Almscliffe but not bouldered there.

May well be on my own if a mate can't make it, but ideally would love to do a bucket load of 3 star 6s and play on a couple of low grade 7 giveaways.. :lol:

Reckon Caley will be green/damp non? so looking for recommendations, Dont fancy hacking across boggy land to find green/scrittly esoterica

Partners/extra pads/local guides welcomed.
 
Brimham? Wee bit of a trek but working along from Pommel to Murky Rib to Anniversary Arete to Black Chipper Arete should give a good circuit of most likely "in condition" problems, and by problems I mean aretes.

Almscliff will be in good nick as always but also horrible as always.
 
From Otley, Snowden is nearby, has a short walk-in and is pretty compact.

Not exactly mainstream, can be a bit scrittly, so potentially a bit esoteric for you but there are some bangers there (Skull Wall, Naked Yoga, Rainbow, Pot Of Gold)...
 
It was pretty damp this morning in Leeds, so I would avoid Caley.

If you do end up at almscliff, some of my favorites that fulfill your criteria(ish)

Flying arete (6B) Ace line
The right wing (6B) Variation on above
Morells Wall (6A) Uber classic
Dolphin belly slap (7A) Steady with beta
Crucifix (5+) Cool moves
Matterhorn ridge (4+ highball) L i n e
The Gypsy (6A to break, E3 if you top out...)
Virgin Traverse (6 something...) Ace if you like steep juggy traverses. Maybe one for towards the end of the session though
Crucifix traverse (7A) cranking on a 2 finger pocket
Si's arete (7A) Slopey slapping
Demon wall roof (7A+)if there is someone to sort you out with beta)
Pebble wall (6C+) Rock over techers
Little greeny (7A) Techy wall(?)
Pipping arete (6C+) Slightly overhanging arete
Sloper patrol (6C) bum drag
Syretts roof (7A) feels high but good
pork chop slab (5?) Cool slab
below the decks (6C+/6A) Climb up a stegasaurus prow thing. Often overlooked but good!

Brimham probably has more good 6s to offer, but may be a longer drive.

If Earl is dry, then there are loads of good things to do there, I've mainly sat under harder stuff, but there are easily enough quality 6s for a day. Again might be a bit of a trek though, possibly better for (hard) low 7s.



Unforunately down in the peak, otherwise I would have been keen!
 
Cliff.

Looks like a great forecast for it. DunnyG has a great line up of suggestions there. I normally start at the bottom (pork chop/ flying arête area) then work my way accross and up to finish by Demon Wall roof etc.. crucifix traverse is nearly as soft as the belly slap at 7A and has some great moves in it.
 
Brimham, good shout.

I'd vaguely discounted it as I thought it was much further away. (showing my severe lack of yorkshire topography knowledge)

19 mins away from Timble according to Google maps. :2thumbsup:

I noticed Snowden was very close, but the scrittle/esoteric alarm was ringing. Good to know that it might actually be worth heading over there. Might do a two venue day!!
 
dunnyg said:
It was pretty damp this morning in Leeds, so I would avoid Caley.

If you do end up at almscliff, some of my favorites that fulfill your criteria(ish)

Flying arete (6B) Ace line
The right wing (6B) Variation on above
Morells Wall (6A) Uber classic
Dolphin belly slap (7A) Steady with beta
Crucifix (5+) Cool moves
Matterhorn ridge (4+ highball) L i n e
The Gypsy (6A to break, E3 if you top out...)
Virgin Traverse (6 something...) Ace if you like steep juggy traverses. Maybe one for towards the end of the session though
Crucifix traverse (7A) cranking on a 2 finger pocket
Si's arete (7A) Slopey slapping
Demon wall roof (7A+)if there is someone to sort you out with beta)
Pebble wall (6C+) Rock over techers
Little greeny (7A) Techy wall(?)
Pipping arete (6C+) Slightly overhanging arete
Sloper patrol (6C) bum drag
Syretts roof (7A) feels high but good
pork chop slab (5?) Cool slab
below the decks (6C+/6A) Climb up a stegasaurus prow thing. Often overlooked but good!

Brimham probably has more good 6s to offer, but may be a longer drive.

If Earl is dry, then there are loads of good things to do there, I've mainly sat under harder stuff, but there are easily enough quality 6s for a day. Again might be a bit of a trek though, possibly better for (hard) low 7s.



Unforunately down in the peak, otherwise I would have been keen!
Click to expand...

As above. Almscliff might be crawling with people tomorrow but then again that means more pads. If you want solitude I would go to Earl; one the most underrated crags I've been to. Loads of ticking to do there and a short walk in which will offset the drive. Might be cold as it gets little sun so take a jacket. If you do go there there is a brilliant set of 5s and low 6s just where you walk in on perfect rock. John Dunne Slap is a good 6b as is Australia Roof. Also Power Drop at about 6b. All the problems on the solitary block are good. Basically its a great crag. I need to go back but sadly not in Yorkshire this weekend or would also be keen! Edit: good low 7s include Grape Nut, Desert Island Arete among others.
 
If you're a visitor to the area, looking for Classik Tix, and want a high volume of 6s, AND have never bouldered at Almscliff, then to be perfectly honest I would go there.

It will be busy, but it's popular for a reason. Fiend is right: Brimham is nearby and would probably also fit the bill, but I think the bouldering comes into its own there in the 7s. There are of course some good 6s around the Car Park Boulders (The Pommel, Bellyflop, Fright Arete, etc etc etc) but the quality at Brimham is spread out over a large woodland area and it is difficulty to navigate if you haven't got a good guide (you can get a free, definitive bouldering guide from Unknown Stones under The Brimham Project).

If you're not fussed about crowds I think you'd be mad not to go to Almscliff. Ticklist as follows:

Matterhorn Arete (4+/5)
Hanging Rib (6A)
The Crucifix (5) and Crucifix Arete (6A+)
The Gypsy (E3 to top out/6A+ to drop off)
Morrel's Wall (6A+)
Flying Arete (6B)
If you're fit then the Virgin Traverse is 6B+ (more like a french 7b or something)
Silver Trout with the block toe-hook (6C)
Pebble Wall (6C)
Below The Decks (6C/+)
Syrett's Roof (high but above a very good landing, 6C+)
Dolphin Belly Slap (7A)
Patta's Arete (7A)
Crucifix Traverse Low (7A)
The Real Boom Bap (7A, dyno - you need to like dynos for this to be on the ticklist, but if you like dynos then don't miss it. You start hands and feet on the block that the Virgin Traverse starts from and then dyno to the break. Needs a few pads but there will be loads under that general area anyway)
Si's Arete (7A+ - might be a giveaway in boss connies)
Demon Wall Roof (7A+ - the most sought after problem at the Cliff, but not a giveaway by any stretch)



Edit: got there too late. Dunnyg is clearly a man of great wit and taste.
 
I agree that Earl is incredibly under-rated and the 6s there are some of the best out there. But. Given that you've a limited time window I think you'd be insane to drive all the way there if you haven't bouldered at Almscliff.

Also. Given that you don't want scrittle and want Classic Tix, I implore that you don't go to Snowden. It's fine, but it's not what you're looking for I don't think.
 
Also currently pissing down here so Earl ( and I would assume Brimham and Caley) v likely to be damp tomorrow.
 
Fiend said:
Brimham?
Click to expand...

I was at Brimham on Wednesday. Despite extremely strong winds and sun almost everything was damp to a greater or lesser degree. The rock seems to have soaked up a great deal of rain, unsurprising given its porous nature, and the whole place felt like it needs a good solid dry spell to be climbable again (I.e. on current forecast it should be okay on Sunday, better on Monday).

I'd go to Almscliff if I were you Sam, as others have said.
 
:2thumbsup:

Thanks for all the replies. :bow:

Seems like almscliff then!

(just noticed it has no e on the end, not sure why I thought it did, but apologies if the miss-spelling niggled the locals :lol:)
 
SamT said:
:2thumbsup:

Thanks for all the replies. :bow:

Seems like almscliff then!

(just noticed it has no e on the end, not sure why I thought it did, but apologies if the miss-spelling niggled the locals :lol:)
Click to expand...

I think its either or tbh
 
Will Hunt said:
If you're a visitor to the area, looking for Classik Tix, and want a high volume of 6s, AND have never bouldered at Almscliff, then to be perfectly honest I would go there.

It will be busy, but it's popular for a reason. Fiend is right: Brimham is nearby and would probably also fit the bill, but I think the bouldering comes into its own there in the 7s. There are of course some good 6s around the Car Park Boulders (The Pommel, Bellyflop, Fright Arete, etc etc etc) but the quality at Brimham is spread out over a large woodland area and it is difficulty to navigate if you haven't got a good guide (you can get a free, definitive bouldering guide from Unknown Stones under The Brimham Project).

If you're not fussed about crowds I think you'd be mad not to go to Almscliff. Ticklist as follows:

Matterhorn Arete (4+/5)
Hanging Rib (6A)
The Crucifix (5) and Crucifix Arete (6A+)
The Gypsy (E3 to top out/6A+ to drop off)
Morrel's Wall (6A+)
Flying Arete (6B)
If you're fit then the Virgin Traverse is 6B+ (more like a french 7b or something)
Silver Trout with the block toe-hook (6C)
Pebble Wall (6C)
Below The Decks (6C/+)
Syrett's Roof (high but above a very good landing, 6C+)
Dolphin Belly Slap (7A)
Patta's Arete (7A)
Crucifix Traverse Low (7A)
The Real Boom Bap (7A, dyno - you need to like dynos for this to be on the ticklist, but if you like dynos then don't miss it. You start hands and feet on the block that the Virgin Traverse starts from and then dyno to the break. Needs a few pads but there will be loads under that general area anyway)
Si's Arete (7A+ - might be a giveaway in boss connies)
Demon Wall Roof (7A+ - the most sought after problem at the Cliff, but not a giveaway by any stretch)



Edit: got there too late. Dunnyg is clearly a man of great wit and taste.
Click to expand...

Upset that you haven't decided all the above are "6b at the hardest"
 
DBS is well worth 7A. Not soft at all in my opinion.
It's quite a bunched start if you've a lot of leg to squeeze in at the start.
 
teestub said:
Also currently pissing down here so Earl ( and I would assume Brimham and Caley) v likely to be damp tomorrow.
Click to expand...

Was planning on heading to Earl tomorrow so thanks for the intel. Will probably give it a miss tomorrow then but likely to be ok by Sunday or Monday? (keen to try all the low sevens primarily)
Sorry diverting thread a bit but sort of related.
Was also intending to try Tender Homecoming on Monday. Was expecting to have to ab and brush but don't know what rock quality is like on this. Likely to be ok by Monday or scrittly damp disaster best left for a drier spell? Was at Brimham a couple of weeks ago and came to same general conclusion as Bradders but some stuff (on the harder rock) was fine.
Final question, any predictions for Heaven in your hands condition for tomorrow?
cheers
 

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