Two new problems I did at Caley back in October of 2023, both on the Smooth Wall boulder, on the left hand side if you're facing Smooth Wall looking up the hill.
Big Brain - 6Cish - To the left of Smooth Arete is a line of crimps and edges underneath a sloping lip. From a sitting start work your way up the crimps to a small edge for the left hand and a good edge for the right hand, from here pass the roof and mantel the top.
Smooth Brain - f6B+ - The stand start of Big Brain, go's from the LH edge and good RH. Grades are a guess, don't think anyone has repeated either since they've been done. Likely to be (much) harder for the short.
Vid of the 6C here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5HnL3uwDJ0
There is a much much harder unclimbed line to the left of these problems which I had a look at but didn't get done.
UKC links for both below
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caley_crags-540/big_brain-707944
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caley_crags-540/smooth_brain-707945
Big Brain - 6Cish - To the left of Smooth Arete is a line of crimps and edges underneath a sloping lip. From a sitting start work your way up the crimps to a small edge for the left hand and a good edge for the right hand, from here pass the roof and mantel the top.
Smooth Brain - f6B+ - The stand start of Big Brain, go's from the LH edge and good RH. Grades are a guess, don't think anyone has repeated either since they've been done. Likely to be (much) harder for the short.
Vid of the 6C here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l5HnL3uwDJ0
There is a much much harder unclimbed line to the left of these problems which I had a look at but didn't get done.
UKC links for both below
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caley_crags-540/big_brain-707944
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/caley_crags-540/smooth_brain-707945