Will Bosi has repeated Burden of Dreams

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Christ. I was just going to comment that it hadn't taken long for someone on UKC to mention Shadowplay.

The shadow of the G is long indeed.
 
Fantastic effort Will. Between him and Aiden, it feels like climbing is coming home.

andy moles said:
The shadow of the G is long indeed.

It has to be for us all to live in it.
 
Bradders said:
gme said:
Bradders said:
gme said:
alphane will get down graded

I really don't get where this comes from at all. If anything, it's the one with the strongest consensus; four ascents all agreeing with 9A.

Will seemed reluctant to say 9A and suggested two 8C+s seemed harder. Lorenzi suggested it was easier than SS which has been suggested at 8C+ by one of the three ascensionists.

He's literally just said it's soft 9A.

I think it's harder than Alphane but not much harder. I could see both being the same grade but Burden being solid and Alphane being soft.

Lorenzi said Alphane and Soudain Seul are both 9A:

My second of the grade

I was talking about alphane not burden.
 
I mean seriously, the hardest, most famous boulder on the fucking planet is repeated by a bearded Scotsman and you lot are whinging about other 9A's.
It's fucking Burden of Dreams. The bouldering equivalent of repeating Silence. Fuck me, what an achievement. By Nalle and Will.
 
Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special. How hard will 9A+ be?
 
Andy F said:
Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special. How hard will 9A+ be?

Maybe it Is 9A+?! With so many guys now bouldering at the highest level, and them teaming up I think bouldering is gonna go forward quickly.
 
Andy F said:
Thinking about this, 24 days is less than half of what it took Mark Leech to climb Cry Freedom. A quarter of what it took Ste Mac to climb Rainman. And a fuckton less than it took Nalle to establish BoD. Yeah, I know repeating stuff is easier than putting it up but Jesus fucking Christ, that is something quite special. How hard will 9A+ be?

Not to take anything away from the achievement, but is that a realistic comparison? I mean both cry freedom and rainman have a huge number of moves and complexities to figure out, let alone the lack of videos to study, and replicas to train on. A session on an replica, of a 6 move problem, with videos to give you beta, is surely worth about 5 sessions of figuring out a route that's never been done?
 
Interview with Randall https://open.spotify.com/episode/4F0rw3OCCtjOTO9pPCREGg
 
I tried searching but to no avail. I'm sure it's been mooted on here at times who might do the first repeat of BoD and when. I don't think anybody had their money on the speccy Scottish kid :)
 
there are a few posts scattered about, but this is probably what you were looking for

Liamhutch89 said:
2nd ascent of Burden sweepstake, place your bets:

Aidan Roberts
Will Bosi
Vadim Timonov
Shawn Raboutou
Giuliano Cameroni
Other

I'll tentatively go Timonov
 
Am I the only one who really wishes that gunky crack and all the rock right of it was not there? I know the problem is miles from it and in no way compromised by it ... and BoD is super aesthetic in it's absolute simplicity and purity ... but still ...

Anyway, incredible effort from Will; laser focus on doing the business.
 
The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?
 
wasbeen said:
The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?

Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.
 
remus said:
wasbeen said:
The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?

Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.

1st 8B/+
2nd 8Aish
3rd 7Cish
4th 7Bish
5th 8A

(source: reply to a comment on this post https://www.instagram.com/reel/Cq5r3t9RoW8)
 
36chambers said:
there are a few posts scattered about, but this is probably what you were looking for

Liamhutch89 said:
2nd ascent of Burden sweepstake, place your bets:

Aidan Roberts
Will Bosi
Vadim Timonov
Shawn Raboutou
Giuliano Cameroni
Other

I'll tentatively go Timonov

I was thinking of earlier than that, around the time or in the first few years after it was done. I think Will still would have been a comp/route climber then and I'm not sure how well known Aidan was.
 
remus said:
wasbeen said:
The individual moves must stack up as some of the hardest moves anywhere. Has anyone else repeated the first move?

Toru has definitely done it, maybe Shawn as well? I think will said 8A+ as a single move.

Yeah they've both definitely done it. Vids available of them both.
 
Will Hunt said:
I was thinking of earlier than that, around the time or in the first few years after it was done. I think Will still would have been a comp/route climber then and I'm not sure how well known Aidan was.

Footwork said:
JackPal said:
Favourite for the second ascent?

That bare foot guy

That’s from the day the FA was announced. No more in that thread, it’s mainly people talking about the film.
 
From that thread, this is a great post:

highrepute said:
Just been going back through his instagram posts about the project. He tends to write quite long descriptions so a good story is told as you go back through the years. Starting 163 weeks ago...
"Tried this amazing new project yesterday! It's a very pure boulder with straight forward and thuggy frontal climbing. No trickery, just raw power! This will be a really hard one! #bouldering #climbing #island"

https://www.instagram.com/p/d34fcpSEr- 163w
https://www.instagram.com/p/ecWG2aSEo2 161w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fPdtwlSEnC 158w
https://www.instagram.com/p/fiHl6KyEpX 157w video..getting excited about nearly doing the first move
https://www.instagram.com/p/gBTqK6yEr2
https://www.instagram.com/p/gS6wGZSEpx
https://www.instagram.com/p/nXtEdRSEmQ 130w project is wet
https://www.instagram.com/p/oGcw7ZSEhL 127w finally does the last missing move
https://www.instagram.com/p/oLqlU_SEu4
https://www.instagram.com/p/odtrtryEl9 126w
https://www.instagram.com/p/pEfV6cyEl4 123w leaves it for another summer
https://www.instagram.com/p/tXzNV2SEix 108w back on it
https://www.instagram.com/p/t5SK6QyEjK 106w every move in a session
https://www.instagram.com/p/uQcB5OyEn2 105w almost linked in 2 parts
https://www.instagram.com/p/ux4XICSEsv 103w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0LNWV0yEng 84w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0aeI3lSEpz 83w
https://www.instagram.com/p/0xr_a0yEif
https://www.instagram.com/p/1sn-iaSEg9 79w Einstein famously said: "Insanity is doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results"
https://www.instagram.com/p/3Gv3PuyEkw 74w
https://www.instagram.com/p/9oPbZKyEvc 50w does it from one move in to the top!
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDWHpIXyEhe 30w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BDszkZLSEsy 29w woods, graham and webb join in
https://www.instagram.com/p/BD8fyrYyErl 28w
https://www.instagram.com/p/BEyThXBSEs- 25w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BE8ujrZyEsw
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFZGD-TSEo7
https://www.instagram.com/p/BFl3Th5yEr4 22w long post about the frustration
https://www.instagram.com/p/BLToTs5ggwd 2w vid
https://www.instagram.com/p/BL9H0OSg8Fc Sent!

Slow day at work.

I miss Nalle.
 
what a wad! I had no doubt of his ability to send it, matter of time, but got a bit worried that it is going to get too warm, and that would have sucked, to try and keep his form / injury-free for the next season

sounds like alphane could settle as soft 9A and burden as hardish/mediumish based on the effort, there is something surreal about sport climber being basically the strongest boulderer.

wonder which route he goes to now, maybe looking for some 9c sport route, or more 9A boulders, it also feels like 9A+ boulder should be possible, if not with this generation then next.

also hopefully will upgrades honeybadger to 9A :great:
 
Theorising...if the first move is 8B on its own, and the other moves are 8A, 7C, 7B and 8A then for something to get 9A+ it will need to have at least two 8B single moves on it plus some other hard moves, or something like two 8C sequences back to back with no rest. Doesn't sound utterly incomprehensible when you think about the level some of these guys are operating at.
 

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