Where to go April to December

[James Malloch]

GdT also has Gorge du Jonte just around the corner - good for adventurous multi-pitch 6s and 7s, various aspects.
La Dourbie also nearby to tarn. Some of the best routes I climbed on a trip to GdT were actually at La Dourbie!

Gorge du Jonte looked amazing, we were staying at the top of the plateau and drove through it on our way to Tarn every day. Couldn't persuade my partner to go there though.

We went to GdT in May and it was roasting on some crags so it was a case of finding ones that weren't in the sun. On that basis I highly recommend this little crag for shady afternoons: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/gorges_du_tarn-2077/#lamphi

Have to say, that place looks amazing!

https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=332427

 

[Teaboy]

I can’t believe nobody has recommended the Verdon, it stretches the sport climbing definition a bit but if not now then when? Which brings me to my main point, if you have three months surely this is an opportunity to explore some of the areas you wouldn’t otherwise get to, you might end up at some duff areas but if that forces you to have a few days off then it might be no bad thing, recharge the psych and all that. You’ll always have opportunities to go to Siurana etc.but you’ll have a job persuading people to give up their 2 week holiday to explore the crags of Macedonia etc.
Regarding some of the places mentioned I thought Tarn was better than Léger (and even Buoux although the villages around Buoux are lovely). Osp is ok but not much shade

 

[James Malloch]

We’re in Font now (best trip I’ve had here so far!) and we’re wondering about whether to skip Spain given we’re likely to spend the autumn/wonder there. Also to cut down on the driving as we’re hoping to go to the Frankenjura and they’re pretty far apart…

After font we planned to go to Gorges du Tarn but have been out off a little by some friends telling us about the processionary caterpillars which are really bad for dogs (apparently they have been everywhere in recent years to the point events are getting cancelled).

As such we are thinking about maybe checking some other french sport crags out before going to the Frankenjura via Finale/Arco/Mello and maybe some Swiss bouldering.

Would anywhere in France (ideally without caterpillars) be any good in a few weeks time. I guess it’s a bit early for Ceuse? Maybe alfroide, briancon, gorges du jonte?

Ideally looking for somewhere with a good range of low 6 to mid 7 routes…

 

[SA Chris]

Sisteron or Orpierre?

 

[spidermonkey09]

St Leger, Briancon area, the other crags near Gap like Sisteron and Orpierre would all be fine now. Might be hot at some of them if you get the timings wrong. Ceuse might also be fine but doesn't really fit your other requirements of closely spaced bolts and steady grades, especially in the 6s.

Ailefroide and Briancon are good but not world class. In your position I'd go to St Leger.

 

[teestub]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

 

[T_B]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Loads at Cuisiniere.

 

[Paul B]

Is it really too early for Ceuse? I honestly don't know at this end of the season but I've been very late on in the year. The change was that instead of starting bloody early at Cascade and working your way rightwards you could do the opposite and climb in the sun with significantly less people about. Ceuse was also the first place Nat actually led outside (on the stuff to the left of Cascade). The bolts really aren't that bad IMO especially if you know where to look. That was back in 2007 so I'd suspect there's been more development.

 

[spidermonkey09]

Is it really too early for Ceuse? I honestly don't know at this end of the season but I've been very late on in the year. The change was that instead of starting bloody early at Cascade and working your way rightwards you could do the opposite and climb in the sun with significantly less people about. Ceuse was also the first place Nat actually led outside (on the stuff to the left of Cascade). The bolts really aren't that bad IMO especially if you know where to look. That was back in 2007 so I'd suspect there's been more development.

I thought the bolting was broadly fine too tbh. Its not grid bolted though, its well bolted!

 

[James Malloch]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Loads at Cuisiniere.

We’ve been climbing around Isatis today so probably loads here too then. Maybe it’s something to worry less about and just be more diligent about checking/walking on a lead until we get to the area we’re going to…

 

[seankenny]

Wouldn't most places in the south of France broadly decent at this time of year, obviously depending on orientation and the day-to-day weather? In fact isn't April kind of prime time for this area? There is the coast (Calanques, Toulon, Turbie) and further inland (Buoux, Chateauvert, Verdon). It's not far to drive between them so if the weather is crap in the hills it's easy to relocate to the seaside. Buis and environs have plenty of crags with a ton of 6s on them and decent bolting.

Ceuse bolting was fine for me and I'm a wuss.

 

[James Malloch]

St Leger, Briancon area, the other crags near Gap like Sisteron and Orpierre would all be fine now. Might be hot at some of them if you get the timings wrong. Ceuse might also be fine but doesn't really fit your other requirements of closely spaced bolts and steady grades, especially in the 6s.

Ailefroide and Briancon are good but not world class. In your position I'd go to St Leger.

Cheers - I’ll have a look at them later this week. I’m thinking St Leger, though a friend of a friend is there and says it’s real hot. But the north wall should be fine and I think we’re reasonably tolerant of heat.

And from the other posts on ceuse. I also though the bolting was pretty good. Spaced, but bolts where you actually need them rather than trying to clip mid sequence. Maybe it could be a goer Climbing in the sun…

 

[James Malloch]

Wouldn't most places in the south of France broadly decent at this time of year, obviously depending on orientation and the day-to-day weather? In fact isn't April kind of prime time for this area? There is the coast (Calanques, Toulon, Turbie) and further inland (Buoux, Chateauvert, Verdon). It's not far to drive between them so if the weather is crap in the hills it's easy to relocate to the seaside. Buis and environs have plenty of crags with a ton of 6s on them and decent bolting.

Ceuse bolting was fine for me and I'm a wuss.

You’re probably right. We were basically set on going to Margalef so I’ve not really looked into the the french crags for this time of year. I know a lot are more alpine so will be pretty cold but probably fine in the sun.

Good problem to have really

 

[James Malloch]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay

 

[jwi]

According to reports, absolutely every french person having a rope is in Saint Léger this week end. Should be fine starting from next week.

Céüse looks dry from photos I've seen. No snow hanging over the top bit. Isn't Céüse a bit tricky this time though? In the shade just very briefly before sunset (as the sun is relatively low on the horison) and a bit too hot in the sun? Should be better in a month, I would think.

Tons and tons of good crags to go at this time of the year.

 

[T_B]

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay

Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.

 

[James Malloch]

According to reports, absolutely every french person having a rope is in Saint Léger this week end. Should be fine starting from next week.

Céüse looks dry from photos I've seen. No snow hanging over the top bit. Isn't Céüse a bit tricky this time though? In the shade just very briefly before sunset (as the sun is relatively low on the horison) and a bit too hot in the sun? Should be better in a month, I would think.

Tons and tons of good crags to go at this time of the year.

It’s looking like we’ll head to St Leger then, thanks! I’ve been well keen for a re-visit since going there 7/8 years ago

 

[James Malloch]

:sorry:

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay

Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.

Cheers. I’ve not seen any yet but heard of some around us. We’ll keep my eye out.

 

[spidermonkey09]

North Wall at SL is very good. Les clowns one of the best 7cs around. Brick hard but amazing. The 7as on the RH side are good as well. Worth checking out la baleine as well for shade. Jwi linked me the topo on here in a thread a few years back.

 

[Bradders]

:sorry:

Worth watching out for those caterpillars in Bleau too, a friend’s dog just had a bad encounter with them there.

Do you know which sector they were at? Hope the dog is okay

Crete Sud. Behind La Mouche (must’ve been 3m of them) and on the path up to Beatle Juice.

Cheers. I’ve not seen any yet but heard of some around us. We’ll keep my eye out.

Why so worried about the caterpillars? Surely you should simply put your dog on a lead and carry on with your plans.

There are plenty of other things in Font that don't mix well with dogs, and vice versa, after all.