When did Jerry do The Ace?

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remus

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Im trying to track down when Jerry did The Ace. In this interview it mentions 2002 https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/interviews/jerry-moffatt-interview.html but then there's a UKC piece (purportedly from December 2001) talking about Malc repeating it https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2001/12/malcolm_smith_repeats_careless_torque_-_as_fawcett_watches-2119 so they can't both be right.

Peak bouldering doesn't have a date and neither does the stanage definitive.
 
I think the Planet Mountain date is erroneous. The UKC article is dated, I don't see how that could be wrong as its the original article from 2001.
 
The UKC article doesn’t say he did the Ace but that he nearly did it. It’s not clear in the report but Simon Panton confirms it in the thread
 
I think the UKC article confirms that Malc got close to repeating the Ace in Dec 2001. Therefore Jerry must have done the FA either earlier that winter or the winter before.
 
36chambers said:
2000 according to the significant ascents and dates in Revelations :smartass:

Of the sources available Revelations seems most likely to be correct, though wouldn't put a little looseness of memory past Jerry!

Thanks for the correction on Malc's ascent too, misread the UKC article.
 
Good knowledge, peak rock is pretty meticulously researched so 2001 seems likely (maybe Jerry/Grimer made a mistake in the Revelations route list?)

I've had a trawl through the UKC news archives and there's no mention of it. There is a bit of a sparsity of items in march and april though so I wonder whether whoever did the news at the time was on holiday? Hard to imagine Jerry doing a new 8B in the middle of plantation would go unreported otherwise.
 
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
 
remus said:
Good knowledge, peak rock is pretty meticulously researched so 2001 seems likely (maybe Jerry/Grimer made a mistake in the Revelations route list?)

Wouldn't be the only topo.
 
cheque said:
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
I knew they'd be useful for something! It's in the March 2001 editions of both OTE (105) and Stumbler & Bumbler. Given the March editions generally came out in mid-Feb, I'd hazard a guess at Jan 2001 or earlier. There's snow on the ground in the pictures, but it reads like that wasn't the day he actually did it, more likely the day he went back for the photos.
 
8) strong work!

It seems feasible he could have done it in December 2000, so maybe the date in revelations could be correct? Shawn Raboutou style.
 
Stabbsy said:
cheque said:
You need someone with an archive of old On The Edge magazines. It’ll have been reported in there within a month of it happening.
I knew they'd be useful for something! It's in the March 2001 editions of both OTE (105) and Stumbler & Bumbler. Given the March editions generally came out in mid-Feb, I'd hazard a guess at Jan 2001 or earlier. There's snow on the ground in the pictures, but it reads like that wasn't the day he actually did it, more likely the day he went back for the photos.

Any chance you could share these pics / articles? Would be cool to see.
 
Jerry does the Ace in Stick It which came out in 2001. I don't know whether that was the actual ascent though or just a reenactment.
 
Jack Andrew said:
I’m sure I’m revelations it says he did it in the winter of 2000. Don’t know the date though

Just flicking through it now, apparently he spent most of the winter of 1999 on it, but did it the following winter (page 206). It also reads

"One of them, a climber called Stuart Littlefair, suggested a different sequence of foot moves... ...Two days later... ...I had done it."

So come on Stu, when did you unlock The Ace for Jerry??
 
Bradders said:
Any chance you could share these pics / articles? Would be cool to see.

There's limited info, but here you go.

OTE :-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/1dykir55wmt3gnt/IMG_1879.HEIC?dl=0

Si Panton's Bouldering Scene (one of the few good bits of Climber back then) :-

https://www.dropbox.com/s/gebjryx75unokr6/IMG_1880.HEIC?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/si6o6zeoxhe47kp/IMG_1881.HEIC?dl=0
 
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