Verbal Abuse, Raven Tor

[Tony S]

I think I’ve got this sussed now but it seems much harder than 7c+ (disclaimer: I’m crap at bouldering).


I imagine, like with most of the Tor, holds have gone AWOL since the first ascent. However, this still must have been pretty exciting for E7 BITD. Though I appreciate new (eGrader…) E7 is a bit different to ‘80s E7.

I’m intrigued by the positioning of the new bolts relative to where the original gear (pegs?) were. Does anyone have any knowledge?

(PMs welcome if anyone would rather get in touch off-line.)

 

[kc]

It was Jerry who was keen for his route to be re-equipped as no one seems to have done it in years. Initially Haydn drilled some holes for resin bolts directly next to the old pegs but never finished the job.
Verbal Abuse was climbed with twin ropes with a baby bouncer fall at the crux. This would have involved a traverse or a down climb to set up so I suggested to Jerry putting the bolts at 180° to the original peg placements but in a straight line so people could use a single rope. You'd still get a similar experience that he wanted to be maintained. There is nothing stopping you stick clipping the first and extending the draws if you wish. It's a compromise. No doubt someone will add a few more bolts it the future.

 

[kc]

Incidentally which way are you approaching the crux? Me Myself and I did it from the left looking at the b&w photos. I hit the crux from the right.

 

[Tony S]

Many thanks for the info kc, that's great knowledge.

I like that the bolting respects the original "trad" experience - I'm guessing it was always just peg protected (and maybe a wire where the third bolt is now?). I may well extend the second bolt - I'm claiming the baby bouncer would have been nicer than the single bolt - cough! cough!

I'm sure you will be proven right that more bolts will get added eventually but that's progress...

For me, a rockover and press into a gaston at the bottom of the flake below the second bolt (red circle in attached pic) is the crux. My hands roughly follow the purple line in attached pic.

Is that what you did?

I'd be very keen to see the pics of Jerry on it if you're able to post them - I couldn't find anything online.

Cheers again!

 

[GuyVG]

Hayden drilled them on the same day I drilled some new holes for the Call of Nature belay but, with it being a very cold morning, a wiser head at the tor that day told us the glue would struggle to go off and so we left it. I do remember Haydn wacking those glued-in pegs with a hammer pretty hard and they didn't budge but glad you bolted it. The high first clip just gives a similar scenario to Tequila which seems to exist quite well like it is.

 

[Tony S]

fftopic: but:
I'm pretty sure the first bolt on Tequila is a good bit higher. But, more relevantly, Chee Tor benefits from predominantly (in terms of numbers of routes) being a trad venue...

I'd give a few years but I don't hold out much hope for Verbal in the long run

 

[kc]

After the last hard move passing the overlap the route went slightly right onto a rubble ledge and an easy loose finish. I removed a considerable about of rock and and loose holds to divert the line leftwards to solid rock. The top bolt also forces people away from the loose rock. The only reason I did this is because of the danger to the large amount of people that hang around and pass under the route.

My sequence is rh big undercut with cemented peg, lh crimp, rh minging crimp, lh ear, rh little hidden two finger dink just right of ear, lh crimp rail rh difficult match (crux) lh Gaston bottom of flake.
There is a photo of Jerry in Peak Rock and Dougie on the top overlap in RFax03.

 

[Kingy]

I did it in October last year and followed just right of the white and blue line of the route on your pic. It was pretty crimpy and the crux was moving left just above the 2nd bolt to get into the bottom of the flake like Kristian describes. There was a beak-like 2 finger crimp if memory serves and some other assorted rat jobs. I added 2 giant slings to the 2nd and 3rd bolts to turn it into a modern sport route. Tough moves but I didn't think it was quite hard enough to get 8a.

 

[kc]

I couldn't really say what grade it is. Similar difficulty but different to Call of Nature but that is considered soft 8a for the Tor. I ran a few laps on it but couldn't be arsed to lead it mainly because I think the climbing on it and the Tor generally is fucking horrible.
I'm currently cleaning up a real gem. A neglected 8a that has probably not been climbed in 25 years that is way better than garbage like Ring of Fire and Toilet.

 

[Tony S]

Thanks all for knowledge. Sounds like I’m using same method at crux but have a more circuitous (weak person’s?) way of getting there.

I find a perverse enjoyment in climbing the horrible routes at the Tor/Peak - at least you don’t have to queue for them!

I find grading these very bouldery routes tricky but I’d agree with kc regarding the relative difficulty (for me) to other nearby routes. That said, the Tor is probably less “internally-consistent” compared to other crags as grades (and routes) have sporadically changed over the many years since their FAs.

Look forward -in due course- to the details of your newly refreshed 8a kc. Cheers.