Unrepeated?

[Andy F]

For those who don't know what we're on about, The Midas Touch takes the undercut right arete of this piccie, with side runners (one at he lip of the roof, one higher up) in this photo: http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=18321

Sorry, I don't know how to post the piccie on here.

 

[andi_e]

Giant Haystacks? You?

 

[GCW]

Beer gut.
Andy, that photo doesn't do it justice- it's a very cool arete.
I'm sure there's a few E5s and E6s in Lancs that have not been repeated.

 

[Teaboy]

Seems Peggo's routes might be a recurring theme; has First Last and Always on Esk been repeated? Mind Bomb wihout tensioned rope\side runner?

Did Twid do Hardback Thesarus?

 

[nik at work]

s groove has had several solo repeats. Perimeter walk should be onsighted by someone if it has't been already. It's easier than the E5 next to it IMHO.

 

[AndiT]

Does anyone know if Dan H repeated Parallel Lines. I heard that he broke his wrist falling off it, but also heard he went back and did it from another person??? Would love to know.

 

[Idol eyes]

Did Twid do Hardback Thesarus?


[/quote]

Yeah, Think JD said it was T/R, or at least inspected...

 

[nik at work]

belayed him when he broke his wrist. As far as I know he hasn't gone back and done, but thats not a definitive "he's not done it". Others may know better...

 

[mark s]

a little parcular as far as i know not been repeated.dawes has done the mantle but not linked it all together.needs a gymnast to do it.

 

[nash1]

Didn't N Bentley do some E7 on Stanage which was supposed to be 8a. 'Groovy' or something. Has that bin repeated? Wasn't it safeish?

 

[AndiT]

Cheers Nik. Did he try to lead it? Didn't think that gear would be any good, been as it's really poor and really low! I'd heard there was footage of him leading it somewhere, but wasn't sure if it was a successful or pained lead. What do you know about the Young Pretender, the Mark Katz route down the hill, this still hasn't had a repeat...

 

[mark s]

i know what we think

not sure if boom bip had a repeat.
roof left of parologism,but that looked hard as ....
i know i'm a bit west grit biased but thats all i can be arsed to climb on.

 

[nik at work]

Yeah he was leading it with low runners. Aliens in a low flared crack? Does that sound right? They were poor because they ripped, hence the wrist.... So without the side runner. I am right in thinking it was originally done with a side runner aren't I? God I get confused...
He may well have gone back and done it, it's been several years since I've been in sheffield.
Strange you should mention Young Pretender because the day Dan did his wrist we were there with Tom DG and Iain F (I think thats who it was anyway) and they were trying YP. I didn't really talk to them about it much as we left early but I think the feeling was it was ok boulder problem-ish but nasty landing. I haven't even seen it so I might have competely mis-remembered this. That was my only ever visit to Hen Cloud (unless you count a quick session on the aguille), wonder what would get broken if I went back....

 

[Teaboy]

Agua Calinte in the Pass?

Mission Impossible in Ogwen?

 

[Pantontino]

Did Twid do Hardback Thesarus?

Yeah, Think JD said it was T/R, or at least inspected...

I spoke to Twid about this only last week. He did it ground up. First day he took the big whipper, returned a 2nd day and made it to the break.

 

[AndiT]

Nik: Yeah cheers for that, what you're saying all seems to fit with what I've already heard. I'd still love to find out if Parallel Lines has been repeated without the side runner.

 

[Pantontino]

Mission Impossible in Ogwen?

How about getting rid of all the eyesore rusty pegs, then adding a direct start, now that really would be a super route for the next generation of hotshots! Amazing bit of rock, and well worth the walk over the top just to see it for anybody who hasn't explored the upper tier (so to speak) of Gallt yr Ogof.

 

[TdG]

Dan did siderunnerless Parallel Lines 'quietly and without incident' a few years back. The vid is pretty inspiring in that unmistakable 'some climbers' tripod style.

How about these for unrepeated things:

Old (and ancient) school (>10yrs old):
Loaded
Anyone done Reservoir Dogs post-pebble?
Earthboots (Scut fell off the top by treading on his shoelace)
Anyone done - or know anyone who's done - the Kipper (E4) at Earl? Has Jack on Fire (E4) at Almscliffe had a repeat?
Almost grit: has Magic in the Air had a repeat solo?

More recent(>5yrs old):
Charlie Don't Surf
Fagus Sylvatica
Superstition (Dan got pretty close on this before dislocating his shoulder on the mantel)
Some arete in Rivelin Quarry
French Kiss
Notorious BLG
Dozens of lonely E6s up on the moors
Has anyone shown any interest in Buzz Caner, Mentalist Cupboard, Shock of the New, Wilderness Rocks routes?

 

[AndiT]

Thanks Tom. I'd be interested to know his opinion of the grade now that the side runner has been eliminated and also the 'path' he chose, there seems to be two ways: a kind of right hand way with a mantle and a direct way into the groove with some pretty insecure moves.

Would it be possible to see the footage?

Cheers, Andi.

 

[GCW]

Anyone ever repeat Gaz Parry's E7 at Cow's Mouth Quarry? Boldness through Ignorance or something similar.