a dense loner said:
there are loads of strong people who can't climb and loads of very good climbers who are not strong.
you know, my guess is those are the exceptions, and the general rule is that there is a correlation between some feats of strength, (lack of) weight, performance on a board and outdoor performance (at least on styles that have something in common with the board)
it is very pleasing to think about oneself as an exception to this rule since, in the first place, our culture values Ulysses (mastery) more than Achilles (strenght).
furthermore on one side it is hard to think that you should
really go through a boring process of training and diet if you want to maximize your performances, at least in terms of best redpoint/boulder grade (fuck on-sight performance on all styles and rock types!)
on the other side, people who embrace that process might easily get frustrated by the lack of consistency of their performances, as they did not realize in the first place that "maxing the redpoint grade" is not "getting better at climbing" in a general sense.
this generates a widespread
faith that technique comes to people like a sort of holy spirit and "bam!" they perform better just because of that, and you know, they're soooooo weak...no hard work to put in, no boring hours in the gym or equally boring "training at the crag", thats pointless : just pray, worship climbing and wait for the holy spirit to descend on you.
As a side result, this faith makes it easier to accept other people's performances, since they come from an innate gift that you simply don't have...from a sort of supernatural force...
you can skip the whole process of addressing how climbing performance really matters to you, of solving the conflict between the part of you that wants to chase the grade so badly and the other who says there's a lot more in life than training for it.
and as a result, some forum users (esp. on ukc) have come to the paradoxical conclusion that "people who are strong outdoors are weak indoors. RS was strong indoors, so he could not have been strong outdoors".
Really, some posters seem to use the feats of strenghts and board performance as a proof that RS could not perform over a certain grade outdoors, and they are honestly convinced of their words (!!!)
this really seems an insult to logic, to me.
(wait, i forgot, climbing doesn't follow the laws of logic, physics of whatever...it's some sort of miracle happening. i apologize for my blasphemy to all forum readers)
PS myself as well, i think i'm such a weak bastard in the gym and a wizard on real rock.
but at least i'm honest in admitting that's 90% self-lying, 9% lack of motivation to reach my limit on boards, and maybe 1% truth :-[