UKB power club week 255 28th Dec 2014 - 4th Jan 2015

[tomtom]

The back is improving \o/ in the last week my mobility has increased a great deal - what was pain is now aching and getting up and sitting down is no longer a breath holding endurance event. It still hurts when I sneeze - and I can't sit still for more than an hour, but definite progress. Possibly, lying in bed all day new years day throwing up every now and then gave me suitable rest!!

On the power club side of things, I've done two sets of deadhang sessions on big holds, stretching the back and trying not to engage the lower back.. Gentle leg wibbling stretches and some shoulder stretches I was given to do (twice daily).

Weight down to 11:3.5 this morning... lowest in 16 months... shouldnt I be getting fat with no exercise?

 

[csl]

Glad to hear of progress tomtom!

January Goals

V8 indoors or 1-4-7 on the campus board. Either of these would represent an increase in basic strength/power.
3 days out 1/3
Lose 2kg

Mon
Tue - Orme + Castle Inn Quarry. Started off dogging Contusion with super cold hands, was wary of injury warming up on this as its a little crimpy... Failed to flash Quicksilver, 7a. Went to Castle Inn, fell off the 6c slab. Did the 6a+ and 5. Ok day out, didnt climb very well though, noticeably scared on a rope.
Wed - Parisella's Cave. Did a few things in the warm up cave. Then got to work on Left Wall Traverse. Managed the V5 version in a couple of goes, then worked on the V6 shothole start. Did all moves + some links. Tried a few other things. Pillbox - had about 3 goes on Pillbox Original. Found this hard.
Thu - NYD. Windy and horrible weather, went surfing for the first time since i was 13 or so. Was really fun, and managed to stand up and ride some miniature beach breaks.
Fri - Porth Ysgo. A bunch of cool easy problems. Should have flashed Jawbreaker - did second go. Skin gave up a bit trying Popcorn Party so called it a day.
Sat - 3 mile run.
Sun - The Arch. Fingerboard Max Hangs + Doubles on the circuit board. 7a+ into 6c mainly.

Good fun week in Wales, nice to get out bouldering as i've done a shamefully small amount the last few years. Nice to start the year with something different by going surfing.

 

[Muenchener]

STG: Arco at New Year: yes
(January) Indoor 7a redpoint.
MTG (2015): 7b redpoint
Beastmaker 5A routine.
Sautanz
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl West Face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M:
T: knee physio exercises / yoga
W: drive to Arco
T: Arco: Pizzaole. New not-yet-polished sector. Onsighted a 6c, one-mover and probably soft, but still a good start to the year.
F: Arco: Crosano. Did not onsight a definitely non-soft 6c. Desperate rockover with shallow two-finger dimples for the hands, abandoned due to protesting pulleys.
S: Arco. Regina del Lago. Found my 7a project for the trip. Did all the moves in three goes. The crux is right at the top and way hard, big reach over a bulge on small flat holds to a sloping pocket, but there is a decent rest just before it. We're here until Tuesday, this should go.
S: Arco: rest day. Five pitch easy slab by the lake on Corno di Bo.

Glad to hear the back is improving TT

 

[fried]

M - Indoor, I remember nothing about the session.
T - Nothing
W - Travel for 1h to find my wall is shut for New year's eve, cheers for telling us! Move BM into hallway, so I can do stuff on it while I'm cooking.
Th- Cook for 10, do a lot of stuff on the BM, mostly L-hangs, lock-offs, pull ups (hopefully 30mins for sharkathon 2015)
F - Indoor 2.5h, 1 new blue circuit problem to try, flashed it 1/1 for the year. Feeling good. plus shoulder/ back stuff
S - 30mins powerwalk
Su - Indoor 2.5h, 1 new problem to try, my nemesis; rock over on massive foothold, but can't push up off the knee. I regularly fail on this type of problem. Nice session, feeling back to normal. plus shoulder/ back stuff

Week 1 sharkathon done. Weather looks O.Kish for the week and I'm not working until Thursday.

 

[kelvin]

shouldnt I be getting fat with no exercise?

Losing muscle Tom? Glad the back's starting to feel better tho.

STG - Get well.

MTG - No ideas?

LTG - Off to Spain in Oct, so need to be ready for that.

Chest was pretty grim earlier in the week, involving green muckiness and throwing up at times. Stuck with the training however and a fevered night's sleep on Friday seems to have helped turn the corner.

Mon - Beacon Caernarfon. Laps on the autobelay 5a/b/c climbing up and down. Kept warm, sweated lots. 2hrs

Tue - Dinorwig. Led a HS, a VS and Looning the Tube, then called it a day. Cold air and chest don't mix.

Wed - Beacon. Laps on autobelay 5a/b/c for 1hr. (20min of that was rest)

Thu - Pinnacle. Warmup boulder. Lock off training. Boulder - ticked V3. Fingers sore, so home. 2hrs

Fri - Pinnacle leading. Easy routes, nothing over 6a but long session. 4hrs

Sat - Climbing Depot Nottingham. Purples, blacks to warm up. All the blues apart from two on the roof. Some reds, tried some hard reds and tried some yellows. Great session! Proper aching that evening. 5hrs

Sun - Climbing Station Loughborough. Did V0/1s to warmup. Did lots of blues, tried lots of reds and greens. Managed the 6a+ circuit on the 35, then the 5+ for a while on the 10deg. Pretty broken after. 3hrs.

Pleased with the volume considering how rough I felt and not heading outside generally was sensible in the end.

Need to keep the effort levels this high till the trip.

 

[nai]

Weight down to 11:3.5 this morning... lowest in 16 months... shouldnt I be getting fat with no exercise?

I know I am, 62kg from a low of 55.2 early in November before the back went. I'm going to have to diet to even achieve training weight. I have rather enjoyed Christmas though with the pressure/desire to stay in shape off :icon_beerchug:issed: :alky:

Good news on your back, glad to hear it's improving at last.

 

[french erick]

Starting to gently do home sessions again after 5 months off due to double whammy injury on my right hand (bust pulley on ring finger, followed by a broken thumb whilst commuting on bike!).

Good sessions though, and now winter climbing (axes handles not a problem) which is good to get the pulling fitness without engaging fingers too much.

I'll see how I manage this week before saying more. I've not read any posts here since August to avoid frustration so will see what people have managed.

Happy new year all and happy training.
Erick

 

[nik at work]

STG - complete Sharkathon
MTG - tick some trad projects/second ascents
LTG(by end of year) - E8, 8a, 8A after turning 40 and 8c

M - working trad project with Doug, about 8a+ with spicy run outs but ultimately safe-ish...
T - ten minutes outside with a friend visiting for new year, did an HVS fun yes, training not so much...
W - nothing
T - nothing
F - Sharkathon day 1 (couldn't do nod due to visitors). Climbing with Doug working a n other of his trad projects, this ones about 8a spicy run outs but ultimately safe-ish. The did "The 400" 100 sit-ups, press ups, pull-ups and leg raises, planning on doing this every day of Jan but we'll see... Then had a +20kg BM session in the evening.
S - Swim in the sea with the dog for 30 minutes, brrrr. Then did The 400.
S - Did The 400 then went for a run with the dog (30mins). Evening BM +20kg session.

Nice to be back doing stuff after Christmas disruption. Also nice to climb outside, first time since returning from Spain (8 weeks?!?)

 

[webbo]

Mon. Nothing.
Tue. Nothing.
Wed. Dumbbell workout, turbo 1 hour.
Thu. Bike 2 hours.
Fri. Bike 2 hours.
Sat. Nothing apart from drilling holes and wTching brother in law put up my boards.
Sun. Dumbbell workout and putting holds on board.

 

[the_dom]

I'm going to rejoin this because I managed to get out climbing for the first time in months and the finger seemed to hold up, but I'll start from 1 Jan in line with the Sharkathon.

STG: More climbing, finger and other injury rehab, complete Sharkathon, surf more*. Weight to 87kgs.

MTG: 7Bs, at least one trip to Font, Magic Wood or somewhere interesting in Euroland. Surf more*. Injury free. Weight to 85kgs.

LTG: 8A again. Surf more*. Weight at 85kgs consistently.

* Surfing makes me happy. I don't need many more goals than that right now.

Thurs: New Years Day with a slight hangover. Hilly 40 min trail run in the midsummer heat on the slopes of Table Mountain for my sins.

Fri: Gentle hangboard session, mainly just some repeaters to see how the finger feels. Slightly tender, but seemed to hold up well. Followed up with a late afternoon surf in small but fun waves.

Sat:Early surf in really good waves, but truncated due to shark scare after about an hour. Took my frustration to the gym and did deadlifts (new PB for 5 x 5s -130 kgs, or 1.45xBW) which seemed to irritate my finger. May skip deadlifts for a while in the interests of climbing.

Sun:Early, short surf in crappy waves. Gave up after 40 mins. Climbing in the afternoon for the first time in many months. Was worried about my finger but it seemed to hold up through some easy problems and repeating a 7A that I had done years ago. Pretty chuffed with doing a 7A in a few goes after my 2014 climbing year. Thin skin stopped play, but a good day out.

 

[T_B]

86.4Kg

M -
T - School p.m. - general bouldering. Did a few bench presses
W -
T -
F - Foundry - lunch. 7 circuits of old 20 move board circuit. 100 leg pulls. A few assisted one armers.
S - 20 mins on F/board (pull ups, lock offs, front lever attempts).
S - Warmed up on F/board then went out for 2.5 hours (managed to move morning slot to afternoon). Went straight to Curbar - Ben's Wall block. Had a quick go on Great White but it felt as nails as usual, watched mic_b cruise it, then tried Ben's with reaching-with-right sequence. Couldn't quite lank it, but finally got feet sorted to pop the last bit. Gibbered off left to finish. Had some more goes on Great White then headed home. Nice to be out on such a stunning day and to do a problem I'd sort of written off (tried it loads over the years).

 

[Luke Owens]

M: 15 Wide Grip Pull Ups
2 x 10 Front Shoulder Raises (10kg)
2 x 10 DeadLifts (40kg)
2 x 10 Split Squats (17.5kg both hands)
4 x 10 Dumbell Rows (17.5kg)
3 x 10 Hanging Leg Raises (Straight Legs)
2 x 1min Plank
4 x 1min Side Plank (Both sides)
2 x 10 Ab Rollout Wheel

T:AnCap
3 Finger open-hand (30mm edge) 10 x ((7sec:3sec x 4) 1:30 rest)

W:Rest

T:Rest

F:Fingerboard - Testing new pully system. Random hangs on holds I couldn't hang with bodyweight. Taking of 5kg of weight.

S:Rest

S: Porth Ysgo for mates Birthday. Absolutely awesome conditions.

Excuse the "V" grades, I can't be bothered converting them.

Suprised myself and flashed all these:

Jones' Eliminate - V3
Jones' Eliminate SS - V7
Joystick - V2
Slap Handed - V5
Crack Slap - V3
Beach Boys Arete and SS - V4 & V5
The Ysgo Flake - V3
The Ramp - V3
Unmarked Grave - V4
Mutant Child - V5
Rice Krispy Arete - V4
Shredded Feet - V1

Did 2 different methods on Beach Boys Arete, one going right handed at the top and also dynoing and hitting the top ledge with the LH, great move!

Then latched the dyno on Jawbreaker and slipped, ripped the biggest flapper i've ever had, at least it was the end of the day!

One of my best day's bouldering and it's got me psyched for it. Really suprised to flash the sitter to Jones' Eliminate but I don't think i've ever been on a problem that's suited me so well, sharp powerful crimping, really awesome problem.

Ysgo has got to be my favorite place to boulder. Slap Handed, Beach Boys Arete and Mutant Child were absolute quality!

 

[chris j]

Tomtom (+ anyone else with tight muscles and referred pain), IIRC you are already into the self-massage with tennis balls etc, I received a book for Xmas which might be of interest. 'Trigger Point Self-care Manual for Pain-Free Movement' by Donna Finando. Essentially a series of muscle maps showing which muscles refer pain to different parts of the body and where the trigger points are likely to be to relieve the pain and free up the muscles.

To placate the health-care professionals there is a chapter describing different injuries that massage can't treat and symptoms that you should take yourself off to hospital for treatment if you have, so the author's not pretending that massage is a cure-all panacea.

I've only had a relatively quick look through so far but a first go has been encouraging for my ongoing neck/shoulder and lower back/hamstring issues. Obviously these things take time and repetition so we'll see how it goes in the long term.

 

[cheque]

Sat - Climbing Depot Nottingham. Purples, blacks to warm up. All the blues apart from two on the roof. Some reds, tried some hard reds and tried some yellows. Great session! Proper aching that evening. 5hrs

Are you the guy I spoke to with the woolly Adidas hat Kelvin?

 

[kelvin]

Are you the guy I spoke to with the woolly Adidas hat Kelvin?

Haha - that'd be me chap :thumbsup:

Spoke to you just before we left as my mate was trying the traversing red on the back wall?

Small world eh? I really liked it there and not because I didn't need to be strong to tick stuff at my grade - it's just a pleasant space to be in.

 

[Simon Lee]

IIRC you are already into the self-massage with tennis balls etc,

The back nobber is a good device to get at and press hard on those difficult to reach spots - typically under the shoulder blade for me

 

[tomtom]

Thanks for the best wishes and suggestions folks. Just back from the Osteo/physio and things are progressing fine I think...

Shark, your knobber, is it designed for two people and where do you put the ball?

 

[Schnell]

STG: fix fingers, keep working on stable shoulders, get outdoors
MTG: get phd applications done

M. shoulders: weighted reverse flies, shoulder presses and assisted one arm 'shrugs'
T. indoor session, reasonable session but starting to feel a cold coming on.
NYE/NYD: :sick: (conveniently while the walls were closed) but managed a FB and shoulder session
F. feeling a bit less miserable
S. outdoors for a potter, did a few mid 6s then some finger boarding and shoulder stuff at home
S. indoors, lots of mileage and tried lots of non fingery problemis with presses and mantels etc.

Not a bad week and most importantly I haven't tweaked the finger in weeks now. I'm going to start testing it on easy crimping this week and see how it goes. Not much on other than that, I won't have access to a car for a bit so outdoor time may be limited.

 

[chris j]

Shark, your knobber, is it designed for two people and where do you put the ball?

There may be a separate gag and ball...

Check what it's typically sold with, I'm sure I've seen very similarly shaped items on some (cough) specialist websites... One of them goes 4 ways! :lol:

Ta for the suggestion anyway shark, I may well invest, and then my missus will die of laughter...

 

[Simon Lee]

W. AM Started to do a FB sess but too tired so stopped. Drove to Devon
T. AM 30min road run/jog - left knee hurt
F. Brean Down. Waned to go to Cheddar but no other takers so thought better to go to Brean as just with Tommy. Nice temp. We did a new 6b+ on the left and then Coral Sea 6c. Tommy struggled on the two 7a's. I'd done them before and repeated them - one redpoint, one retroflash. Then dogged the desperate Storm Warning 7b+/7c to the right.
S. Taunton Park Run. First Park Run for over 12 months. The Taunton one is on a flood plain and was waterlogged. Trudged in at just under 32mins. Drove back from Devon. Eve. Fingerboard session
S. Blue skies! Texted around and a crowd of mates were going to the Plantation. Didnt get up anything but had a go at Green Traverse, Winner Stays on, Puck and Help the Young. Felt tired when got home. Late eve. Fingerboard session after tips recovered and some weights (bolton complex)

Got my new scales and weigh 11.9/11.10 at 11/12% body fat. Not too bad considering. The body fat measurement is consistent with the readings Ive had before from the expensive measuring machine at the Hallam Sports Science Lab. Aiming to get weight back down to 11.4/5 level.

Off to Chulilla in a couple of weeks for a 7 day trip.