kelvin
Well-Known Member
Heel and ankle ligaments still sore from groundfall but got lots of rail and BM training in.
Mon - Mono pocket pullups!!! Get in ;D Never been so excited, couldn't sleep till 4am. Managed two sets of 2. I can only manage a set of 3 with all my fingers shoved in a jug. Managed 10 minutes out of 30 doing foot on campusing, the aim being to get up to 10min as is in that Barrows file for stamina. Lots of other hangy stuff too. 3hrs.
Tue - Rest. Saw physio, spine slightly compressed from groundfall.
Wed - Repeated the mono pullup shizzle but still can't do more than 3 pullups on jugs :-\ Same sort of session as Mon. An old mate has just started climbing, so bouldered around showing him straight arms etc and had a gentle play on the roof too. Another good session.
Thu - Foot on 1-5 session. Some other stuff and finished pretty mullered. Battered actually.
Fri - Tried the ankle out in the boulder room. Did all the V0s as slow and deliberate as possible. Couldn't have done them any better, then did a couple of V1s and hopped on the roof again before the ankle started to feel weak. Some hangs etc and home.
Sat & Sun - Worked but would have rested. Fingers arms and shoulders need to recover.
Never in my life have I been so psyched about a sporting or training achievement - I feel like I can chase some goals I'd have not dreamt of before. Just need to sort the feet.
So my fingers are obviously stronger than I give them credit for but my actual ability to pull using my arms and shoulders is stupidly feeble. So at least I know where my training needs to head.
Also decided I need to be able to do 10 min foot on campusing. Thanks for that Mr Barrows, I'll blame all the pain on you and your new worksheet. Never felt a pump like it when climbing and I only managed 1m45s the first time! Ended up having a couple of minutes rest and then doing a minute etc etc etc... so not really training stamina in the end but who cares. It felt like I'd achieved far more in that half hour than the last six months climbing. Beasted myself stupid. Then managed the mono pullups. How does that work?
So turns out that groundfall was good for me - I now know I have strong fingers when I bother to train them for a couple of weeks, a weak upper body, a decent core and blatantly crap footwork. So little time...
Mon - Mono pocket pullups!!! Get in ;D Never been so excited, couldn't sleep till 4am. Managed two sets of 2. I can only manage a set of 3 with all my fingers shoved in a jug. Managed 10 minutes out of 30 doing foot on campusing, the aim being to get up to 10min as is in that Barrows file for stamina. Lots of other hangy stuff too. 3hrs.
Tue - Rest. Saw physio, spine slightly compressed from groundfall.
Wed - Repeated the mono pullup shizzle but still can't do more than 3 pullups on jugs :-\ Same sort of session as Mon. An old mate has just started climbing, so bouldered around showing him straight arms etc and had a gentle play on the roof too. Another good session.
Thu - Foot on 1-5 session. Some other stuff and finished pretty mullered. Battered actually.
Fri - Tried the ankle out in the boulder room. Did all the V0s as slow and deliberate as possible. Couldn't have done them any better, then did a couple of V1s and hopped on the roof again before the ankle started to feel weak. Some hangs etc and home.
Sat & Sun - Worked but would have rested. Fingers arms and shoulders need to recover.
Never in my life have I been so psyched about a sporting or training achievement - I feel like I can chase some goals I'd have not dreamt of before. Just need to sort the feet.
So my fingers are obviously stronger than I give them credit for but my actual ability to pull using my arms and shoulders is stupidly feeble. So at least I know where my training needs to head.
Also decided I need to be able to do 10 min foot on campusing. Thanks for that Mr Barrows, I'll blame all the pain on you and your new worksheet. Never felt a pump like it when climbing and I only managed 1m45s the first time! Ended up having a couple of minutes rest and then doing a minute etc etc etc... so not really training stamina in the end but who cares. It felt like I'd achieved far more in that half hour than the last six months climbing. Beasted myself stupid. Then managed the mono pullups. How does that work?
So turns out that groundfall was good for me - I now know I have strong fingers when I bother to train them for a couple of weeks, a weak upper body, a decent core and blatantly crap footwork. So little time...