UKB Power Club Week 212 Mon March 3rd - Sun March 9th

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kelvin

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Heel and ankle ligaments still sore from groundfall but got lots of rail and BM training in.

Mon - Mono pocket pullups!!! Get in ;D Never been so excited, couldn't sleep till 4am. Managed two sets of 2. I can only manage a set of 3 with all my fingers shoved in a jug. Managed 10 minutes out of 30 doing foot on campusing, the aim being to get up to 10min as is in that Barrows file for stamina. Lots of other hangy stuff too. 3hrs.

Tue - Rest. Saw physio, spine slightly compressed from groundfall.

Wed - Repeated the mono pullup shizzle but still can't do more than 3 pullups on jugs :-\ Same sort of session as Mon. An old mate has just started climbing, so bouldered around showing him straight arms etc and had a gentle play on the roof too. Another good session.

Thu - Foot on 1-5 session. Some other stuff and finished pretty mullered. Battered actually.

Fri - Tried the ankle out in the boulder room. Did all the V0s as slow and deliberate as possible. Couldn't have done them any better, then did a couple of V1s and hopped on the roof again before the ankle started to feel weak. Some hangs etc and home.

Sat & Sun - Worked but would have rested. Fingers arms and shoulders need to recover.

Never in my life have I been so psyched about a sporting or training achievement - I feel like I can chase some goals I'd have not dreamt of before. Just need to sort the feet.

So my fingers are obviously stronger than I give them credit for but my actual ability to pull using my arms and shoulders is stupidly feeble. So at least I know where my training needs to head.
Also decided I need to be able to do 10 min foot on campusing. Thanks for that Mr Barrows, I'll blame all the pain on you and your new worksheet. Never felt a pump like it when climbing and I only managed 1m45s the first time! Ended up having a couple of minutes rest and then doing a minute etc etc etc... so not really training stamina in the end but who cares. It felt like I'd achieved far more in that half hour than the last six months climbing. Beasted myself stupid. Then managed the mono pullups. How does that work?

So turns out that groundfall was good for me - I now know I have strong fingers when I bother to train them for a couple of weeks, a weak upper body, a decent core and blatantly crap footwork. So little time...
 
Goals for March

Climb 3x a week 3/3
1x session a week on a rope. 0/1
2x outside 0/2
7b/E4/7A+

Stay under 75kg. - at around 74 at the moment.

Goals for Winter

V8/7B indoors/ Get stronger on Boulders - Came really close on a V8 at the biscuit factory. Should go next session. Tried a couple of harder problems outdoors and they didn't feel impossible if i had more time.
Book a sport trip. Done.

Mon- rest
Tue- Should have been Strength an AnCap, but i didnt have long so just climbed hard boulders. Off last move of V8. A few onsights up to V5.
Wed- ARC - Laps on Circuit board. Need to do this on another less steep wall, so i can get more volume.
Thu-
Fri- Off last move of V8 from Tues. Did a V6, and onsighted 3 V5's. Tried a couple of other V6's.
Did 15 minutes ARC on less steep wall. Better intensity.
Sat-
Sun-
 
STG: Fingers, V7, DWS Project.
LTG: V11 in a session.

M: "Rest" day. Started doing a mate's training program. Only 20min a day but fuck I was sore afterwards... Work late.
T: Actual rest day. Hurting loads from yesterday! Work late.
W: Lot 34 bouldering. V5 warm up. Working 3 new lines, 2 V7ish and a variant at V5ish. No luck on any but progress on the variant.
T: "Rest" day. More training. Very late finish at work.
F: Felt horrible after working really late. Did abit of stretching before going to work again. Work late.
S: New crag. Repeated a brilliant V3, put up 2 new really fun problems flashing them both at V2 and V3, flashed a V0 and nearly put up a new V5. Hot day.... Work late.

One of the main boulders at new crag. At least 14 lines just on this boulder, hardest look V9ish. The line he's on was done shortly after at V6.
431461434.jpg


S: Lot 33 bouldering. Working the highball 7b/+, quick couple of attempts. Worked a new V7ish line, big moves out a roof to a hanging arete. With a massively committing pop around the arete with a big cut loose for the crux... Over a bad landing with roll off a couple of drops if you come off the crux! And started trying a V9 dyno. Bad landing but enough pads there today to make it safe-ish. Felt miles off, then I mashed my knee... Work arvo/evening.

V9 dyno. Joe, Joe Dynamite. Also the last move to a V14 and V14/15...
431678445.jpg
 
11.5-6

M.
T. FB warm up then out to Burb West for 3ish to try West Side. Warm weather and the ground and rock was surprisingly soggy still from Sundays rain. Holds felt greasy and glassy. Traversed in to tick mark edge and felt the sloper below the final flake which was damp but usable. Started attempts but not going well. Nic showed up unexpectedly (I'd told him I was coming on sunday) and SamT shortly after. Goes continued to be frustrating. It felt like I was going through the motions with the conditions being sub-prime. Then unexpected got the sidehold super well and my right foot felt planted. Reached the crimp with ease. Moved right foot up again and then an easy pop with the left hand for the jug. Yess. Shook out and I could hear Sam and Nic rearranging the mats. Felt comfortable shaking out but decided to go for it in case the impetus ebbed away. The sloper felt less damp than earlier but the sidehold looked really green. Snatched for the sidehold with my right hand and it was as slimey as it looked. With my left foot buried in the porthole I would probably have flipped backwards if my hand slipped out of the flake. Committed and started moving right foot up, half expecting my right hand to slip out. It stayed in (thank god) and I found myself looking over the top eyeing a puddle. Fortunately there were enough options to make the top out a formality. Standing on top I couldn't really believe I'd done it. Props to Sam and Nic - I would never have committed without them being there. Beers after at the Rising Sun :beer2:

W. PM Systems board. Managed a project one arm undercut move. Then fingery endurance AnCap session.
T.
F. Tor PM Met Haydn there but forgot my harness. Couple of hours trying Perverse Reverse and Rattle and Hump start. Felt strong on both. Got home and then cleared the garage out with Ben moving heavy stuff around. Felt busted.
S. Felt knackered still. Had promised to chaperone Ben and his mate Joe on the grit. Joe bailed for an all-day party :rtfm: but Ben was still keen and wanted to try Gorilla Warfare. It was misty and a bit drizzly driving out so carried on to Robin Hoods Stride where the weather was much better. Made a beeline for the Spine and we both did it on both sides. Then took Ben to the Cave to show him the 7A there. He couldn't get to grips with the footlock. With some suggestions from a London crew I did it after a few attempts. Started heading to Razor Roof but saw someone on Dry Wit in a Wet Country which was a problem I wasn't aware of and looked amazing. We got on that and with additional support and a spot from Andy Mitchell I got that too ;D . Then tried Grizzly Arete with him and Dave Birkett but no joy. And shredded my skin in the process. Bearded BMC Dan and friend got on a low roof to the left (Kid Roof) which looked good and doable. Found a kneebar which was even better with a kneepad and got that too but probably 6C/6C+ the way I did it. Ben kept at Dry Wit and made impressive progress. Left when he was flagging and headed to Bakewell for pasties. Great day. Hopefully have similar days with him. Eve. went to a party and got hammered.
S.

Awesome week following on from the despair of last week. Malham on tuesday..
 
TUE: 63,4 kg
EN(route): (120 min.)
5b5b5bOH
5c5cVE
6a6aOH
6bOH
5b5bVE
Tweaked something in my right wrist. Have to tape them both now.

FRI: 62,9 kg
Got my 5.10 pinkies. Feeling as weak as Ste Mac. :dance1:
PE(route): 100 min. easy going because of wrist
5bVE
5bVE
6aVE
6bOH
5bVE
6bOH

SUN: 61.9 kg
PO(boulder): First time in a long time. Because I want to become as strong as Malc. Long way to go. Easy because of wrist.
10x3
10x4
18x5
 
STG: stay injury free, improve on 7a+ onsight, build endurance at high intensity, build max strength to enable access to harder routes.
MTG: have lots of good trips and fun climbing well
LTG: Stay strong and fit into 70's


Mon: 12 x 23 m Routes at Sunderland average grade 6c. Up to 7a+ onsight .. last four routes without resting. Good session.

Tues: Rest day... forearm antagonists, shoulders and stretching.

Wed: 5 laps of hard 30 move fingery circuit with 5 minutes rests. 10 2 min foot on campus sets.

Thurs: Max strength session. Supported one arm hangs on 1 cm edge. Warm up then 6 sets of 6 reps holding 70% of body weight ... each hand. Good progress on this.

Fri: Rest day... forearm antagonists, shoulders and stretching.

Sat: 12 x 23 m Routes at Sunderland average grade 7a. Up to 7c+ blew 7c and 7c+ onsights but good progress on both .. 6 Laps on 7a to finish.

Sun: Rest day... forearm antagonists, shoulders and stretching.

Good week, felt like progress is being made. Four weeks to next trip .. Kalymnos... getting psyched.
 
Monday - Tuesday - Work
Wednesday - Start working on some more blue circuit problems, do a couple. Making progress on the 45° stuff even if it's just speeding up the movement between the moves I can do. Fall off the top move of one of the problems with one hand on the finishing hold.
Thursday - rest
Friday - Indoors again. Take it fairly easy, but still manage to tweak an elbow tendon on the above problem trying to push out off a corner.
Saturday - Nothing
Sunday - Take the missus and the Mo-in-law to canche aux merciers, put them on deck-chairs in the sun and head off for fun in the sun. The place is packed due to an orienteering meet, plus everyone and his dog is in the forest today. Got on any problems that weren't already taken. Did plenty of blues, felt good. Even did a couple of problem I used to think were impossible, seems they're fairly easy after all. 22° Degrees today, the hottest since 1977 apparently. Another excellent day out.
 
shark said:
Standing on top I couldn't really believe I'd done it.

:dance1:

That's such a great feeling. Well done.



STG - Don’t get injured; 2 sessions a week with a rope on, emphasis on endurance.
MTG - LH&F BHAG in Yosemite this June (E5 OS this summer).
LTG - LH&F BHAGs in Dolomites, Alps etc. summer 2015 and beyond.

210-211
Two gentle weeks, recovering from finger and elbow tweaks, so only one session of light bouldering at The Biscuit on the Friday before heading off for Siurana on sunday.

212
M - Siurana - OS to 6c
T - Siurana - OS to 6c+
W - Rest day
T - Siurana - OS to 7a+
F - Margalef - OS to 7a
S - Siurana - various OS; 7a first red-point.

Great week climbing in Siurana, with a side-serving of Margalef. Good company, fine weather. This trip was supposed to be about getting milage in as training for Yosemite. That didn’t happen but I can largely do that at the wall. I bagged my numerically hardest onsight in recent years with Crosta pànic at El Pati. It is clearly a very soft 7a+ (or 5.12 - a magic grade) but I’m taking it! I didn’t know the route but it looked great, had no-one on it, and I was clipping the chains 15 minutes after first seeing it. Very satisfying.

I’ve not been training for single-pitch routes this winter but doing high volumes - for me - of moderate intensity. This has had two effects: I’ve avoided injury and developed a degree of endurance. I was pleasantly surprised how un-pumped I was getting on steeper routes. Looking forward to seeing how this fitness translates to trad. climbing. Plan is to continue with more of the same, further upping the volume, and getting in some long days on the crag before June.
 
Nice one Duncan!

El Pati is such an awesome sector, couldn't climb a thing there but I could spend many happy days falling off the 6b.
 
Good effort Simon on WSS! Especially with that sequence ::)

85.4Kg

M - Lunch - 100 leg pulls, a few press ups, theraband
T - Rubicon - Kudos and The Press. Trying Tsunami and Press Kneeling, but not feeling very positive about my chances!
W - Lunch: 100 leg pulls. P.m. Works 8 x 14 moves of 8b, 2 mins rest. Too easy for me to really be AnCap reckons Ben Davison, so I need to work out the moves of the Pink? Then general bouldering.
T - P.m. Foundry routes with Ed - 20 odd routes below 6c+, doing doubles on each line. Sort of Aerocap, though overcooked it a bit at times and not consistent pump.
F -
S - Houndkirk Tor bumbling with Rach. Didn't have enough time to get o'er to Made in Sheffield, but nice to visit a new spot.
S - Rubicon- got stuck into Press kneeling start and did to slapping sloper before crimp. Also got crimp static from standing a few times using lower part of left hand gaston. Did match move (just) on Tsunami starting with right hand on sloper, but felt I got the body position right for the first time. Much more promising than Tues.

3 times climbing outside in one week! Taking some time off this week, so more outside, then trying to rest later in the week as doing the CWIF on Saturday (morning sess).
 
Good trip Duncan!


And Shark :strongbench:


And Kelvin, didn't realise you'd fallen but good to hear you're mending and psyched.
 
Effort beasts. :2thumbsup:

STG: normal middle fingers
2014 goals: 20 19 E-points, 10 sport 7s, 10 boulder 7s

M- Compound strength: pullups, pushups, bicep curls w/18kg. 6 minutes rests between sets- was almost sick during third set. Probably reduce the rest time by one minute rather than two this week.

T- Rest

W- Swimming. 50 lengths breaststroke in 55 minutes- PB.

T- Notts Depot. Only the second time this year. Felt really strong and was pleased to flash about half of the new "V3-V5" problems with no negative finger repercussions. I've definitely made good progress on them.

F- Rest.

S- Rest.

S- Summer! Made the decision to go to Rivelin as the forecast was windy seem a bit daft but stuck with it anyway. Three top-notch HVSs and some soloing. Got on an E1 at the end of the day but sacked it almost immediately- should have structured the day a bit better in that respect but still had fun.

Weighed-in heavier than ever before on Friday- time to stop eating easter eggs every day.
 
STG - power for boulder trip end of March

M - 16 miles cycle commute total. Evening 10 minute fingerboard thing plus elbow exercises.
T - 16 miles cycle commute total. Evening routes - 6a+, 6a+, 6b+ (messed up on one move), new 6c (x3 as it took 3 goes to get it clean), 6a+.
W - 16 miles cycle commute total. Some uneven pullups and stuff in the evening
T - 16 miles cycle commute total. Lunchtime 5k (30:22 but the GPS was way off, so not sure on that).
F - morning bodyweight circuit thingy. Boulder at the wall after work. New set. Flashed up to V3. Got to last move on a V5, had a lot harder time on V4.
S - walked the dog - 5.5 miles. Afternoon went to the yoga class at the climbing wall again ( :eek:). Bouldered aimlessly for an hour or so afterwards. Got drunk later as it was my birthday.
S - Staggered around with the dog about 6 miles. Bit hungover. Went to the wall later, repeating stuff. Got a little further with one problem, but not really in the zone unsurprisingly.

Bit of a crappy week looking back over it, though I do feel like I'm improving in some things, it's not really translating into getting things done. Am hoping it will work for the trip though.

Edit: Good work everyone else this week :great:
 
Lota big things going down this week... Effort gents!

I on the other hand am continuing to go backwards...

Managed to trash me back (coccyx) falling on ice walking around Les Houches 4 days in (!!!) - still managed 7 days snowboarding which was great but the aftermath isn't proving so great..

M: Exploratory Works session - back wasn't happy.. Had to self medicate in the Sheaf afterwards!
T: Work
W: Exploratory 27 miles on the bike - back wasn't as unhappy as climbing on Monday.. Mini Works with the boy, he was with a group so I had a couple of hrs, did a bunch of Murples but back really didn't like me at the end.
T: Nowt - Sore back
F: Nowt - Sore back
S: Nowt - Sore back - Hot bath and pilates (helped!)
S: Too nice to sit around so deciced to get on the bike as it was the least painful option. 50 odd miles around the Southern Peak - Absolutely amazing! Last 5-10 miles weren't at all comfortable and the resulting moanfest didn't go down well with the Mrs but I'm thinking it was worth it :-\

This week: Be sensible... Come to the conclusion that my back's not going to sort itself out without a bit of rest and as I'm off to font at Easter I need to start moving forward rather than backwards! Sooooo.... I'm gonna have a week off, do some yoga and pilates and see what the weekend brings! Arse!

:D
 
STG (Easter): 6c+ redpoint
Turkish Get-Up w/20kg kettlebell.
MTG (Summer 2014) 7a redpoint.
LTG (<= 5 years): Big alpine rock routes: Totenkirchl west face (Dülfer), Marmolada south face (Vinatzer-Messner)

M: Snowboarding, Alpbachtal with M jnr (10 yo), with whom I might still be able to keep up next season, but certainly not beyond that
T: Bad weather for snowboarding - sleet in the valley, dense cloud higher up. Hillwalking, Gratlspitze. 900 metres in 1 hour 30: good.
W: Snowboarding
T: Snowboarding
F: Snowboarding. Barely a hint of Back Leg Burn from four days snowboarding. I hope this is a sign of improved snowboarding technique and not of climbing-damaging hypertrophied legs.
S: Wall, Boulderwelt. Warmed up on a dozen easyish problems, then asymmetric monos on fingerboard as suggested by Dense, then a rather feeble start to my spring PE training on the circuit board.

S: Back from family snowboarding holiday to glorious spring weather. Couldn't get a climbing partner at short notice so went hillwalking instead. This turned out to be a mistake. The first summit, Hoher Fricken, was a very pleasant hike, but from there things went downhill. Albeit not sufficiently. The innocent-looking two kilometre ridge to the Bischoff turned into a three hour deep snow struggle, during which after a certain point, going on seemed a better option than turning back because the map showed a good path down on the other side. Which, with all the snow, I failed to find, resulting in attempting to thrash downhill through trackless jungle and gathering gloom, until I eventually ended up in complete darkness on a steep slope above a ravine. There ensued the second involuntary bivouac of my nearly 40 years of mountaineering-related activities. Fortunately had a belay jacket and a bivvy bag, in which the night was surprisingly comfortable. Actually slept for a few hours.
 
Muenchener said:
There ensued the second involuntary bivouac of my nearly 40 years of mountaineering-related activities. Fortunately had a belay jacket and a bivvy bag, in which the night was surprisingly comfortable. Actually slept for a few hours.

Always good to hear when a possible epic works out fine. :yes:
 
I hope no-one was expecting you!

Mate of mine managed to get benighted on Squareface (i kid you not) late last Autumn. Got caught in a torrential downpour, traversed into gully, which was a river of water, rocks and mud, so they kicked out some ledges in the snow gully to the right in the fading light (no torches) and settled in for the night. He got to work by midday Monday.
 
STG get strong, weigh 13st

M - half hour cardio, half hour beastmaker
T - hour cardio
W - weight in 13st 5 3/4 wall session - did a bit of bouldering, then got on some routes. Really struggled, not sure routes after bouldering is a great idea. Poor session compared to last week.
T - nowt, painful between ribs in back
F- nowt
S - hour session on mates woody, managed a few good probs, failed on a few. Softplay, rolling on back in ball pool is a great massage.
S - Not much, running up and down dry slope picking kids up in afternoon. Half hour cardio in evening, plus some weights. Ribs still sore.
 
Duncan, good effort in Spain!

Let me know if you want to get out at all in the coming weekends!
 
Some good action this week, nice one team Power.

M - BM session
T - BM session
W - Wall, did all 12 problems in the boulder comp, had a twix.
T - Swimming and BM session
F- Short evening session, cleaned a new line.
S - Nothing
S - Did new cleaned line (E6) and repeated another E6.

AS I started writing this I thought I'd had a pretty poor week but reading it back it was actually fairly productive. The weather is starting to play ball, sadly the bird ban of the main crag kicks in after this weekend. One last hurrah until after the summer...
 
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