Topic split: Working a Peak 8a on own

UKBouldering.com

Help Support UKBouldering.com:

simon40

Sport climber, too weak to boulder
Joined
May 15, 2011
Messages
115
Location
buxton
Hi and sorry if on the wrong thread
However, looking to begin to work on a first 8a
One of my considerations is that I can work on my own if needed and can access the top
Peak based
Have managed to get a rope from the top on Salar previously with a fair amount of bush craft
Any thoughts and anyone know if you can get above long tor quarry as love the look of RFJ
Ta
 
If you have an ascender, a GriGri and a clipstick you can get the rope into the chains of any sport route.
 
Pick one with a boulder crux in the first half and clip stick to it. Work the rest when you have a belay.
 
Basically you'll presumably want something short (to avoid high faff) and not very steep (working steep things not on lead would be a pain).

Presumably the toilet, call of nature and the sissy would all be pretty easy to work with a stick. Hot fun closing, rattle and hump, out of my tree all have significant propotions of the difficulty at bouldering height so you would mostly be bouldering and then just stick up a couple of bolts to work the second hard bit on each

None of these are the greatest routes in the world, which may or may not matter!
 
If you don't mind nabbing belays off strangers at the crag then Barrows' suggestions are also good because Rubicon and Raven Tor are probably the two most reliably busy lime crags in the peak.
 
There's a recent thread on here about the logistics:

https://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,30704.50.html
 
From what I recall getting to the top of Long Tor Quarry on foot (doing re-equipping when old bolts were totally knackered) was steep, slippery, and generally epic. You'd want to leave a fixed rope after the first time. Stick clipping deffo a better option. You do need to bear in mind though that unless you do some extra rigging you're relying on a single bolt belay when solo stick clipping. Work arounds include creating a y-hang and clipping a second bolt on an adjacent route, and/or slinging a tree at ground level.
 
Bonjoy said:
From what I recall getting to the top of Long Tor Quarry on foot (doing re-equipping when old bolts were totally knackered) was steep, slippery, and generally epic. You'd want to leave a fixed rope after the first time. Stick clipping deffo a better option. You do need to bear in mind though that unless you do some extra rigging you're relying on a single bolt belay when solo stick clipping. Work arounds include creating a y-hang and clipping a second bolt on an adjacent route, and/or slinging a tree at ground level.

Having stood at the base of LTQ wild horses couldn't get me to try and get to to the top of it by foot! Cool little crag though.
 
Also, contrary to what others have said I'd feel more comfortable working something a bit longer, e.g. The Ogre. You can do more moves at a time then without taking hard/jarring falls, and you have a greater margin for error in terms of rope/fall length.
 
Back
Top