Oh yes, very much so. Done plenty of finding kneebars on the School splat board to train on too. But never to the point of training pain tolerance, and I've only ever tried training my calves - not the other bits of the leg. Got some new ideas to try now!teestub said:I’m assuming Barrows has also spent a lot of time hanging upside down with his knees stuffed behind a campus board!
Duma said:Don't think I've ever heard anyone grumble about kneeBARS on existing routes. KneePADS certainly.
Duma said:Don't think I've ever heard anyone grumble about kneeBARS on existing routes. KneePADS certainly. One is a technique, and complaining about it ridiculous
abarro81 said:but like stopwatches are now common, I suspect that in another 10 years people retiring pads to "training pads" after a season will be common and calf raises will be standard.
My standard answer when someone asks me why I would use a knee indoors, or use an easier sequence than the intended one indoors, or use a knee on boulder links that are mostly for training is "I'm not training to be shit at rock climbing"...Paul B said:we can argue plenty about the merits of training by eliminating technique etc
Added context for you. Rock climbing's a broad church that encompasses E5 5c at Gogarth, the Walker Spur *and* 9b at Malham. You're training to be good at one bit of 'rock-climbing' but not the others (which you might or might not remain relatively shit at, independent of being good at the other).abarro81 said:My standard answer when someone asks me why I would use a knee indoors, or use an easier sequence than the intended one indoors, or use a knee on boulder links that are mostly for training is "I'm not training to be shit at sport climbing or cave-style bouldering as practiced since the 2010s. "...Paul B said:we can argue plenty about the merits of training by eliminating technique etc
I take it you've never tried an anasazi on a spike before. But god it gets :yawn: pointing that out to you again :lol:petejh said:Still waiting for little hard plastic heel spikes on rock shoes as the next boat-rocking evolution
petejh said:Still waiting for little hard plastic heel spikes on rock shoes as the next boat-rocking evolution. Dunno how much they'll help on the Walker Spur.
abarro81 said:I think you may have misread or misunderstood my post... the middle of the 3 examples didn't even have anything to do with knees (padded or otherwise). And the other two didn't even mention pads, just knees, which AFAIK were invented prior to 2010. Either that or I just imagined going to Europe and everyone kneebaring the tufas before that? And everyone kneebaring at the cornice for that matter. Even if you were a pad hater there'd still be good reason to practice kneebar technique.
I take it you've never tried an anasazi on a spike before. But god it gets :yawn: pointing that out to you again :lol:petejh said:Still waiting for little hard plastic heel spikes on rock shoes as the next boat-rocking evolution
P.S. I'll remember to do more indoor eliminates and no-knee link ups at Griff's to train for adventure choss and winterneering :lol: I have genuinely no clue how the point you're trying to make there relates to whether "training" by technique eliminates is a good idea or just crap training if what you want to get better at is the vast majority of rock climbing (i.e. not pinches wall eliminates)! It's a long time since I climbed a Gogarth E5, but IIRC the ability to climb sequences efficiently was more useful on trad than the ability to campus.
abarro81 said:My standard answer when someone asks me why I would use a knee indoors, or use an easier sequence than the intended one indoors, or use a knee on boulder links that are mostly for training is "I'm not training to be shit at rock climbing"...
Ah right, sorry, I think the confusion was because I wasn't trying to say that I train knees so as not be bad at climbing, but that I don't artificially avoid knees (or using the easiest sequence, or matching, or any other technique) so as not to be bad at climbing. If I read my post the way you read it then I understand your response (whereas reading your post in the context of how I'd meant mine implied that front-on-basic was good training for the Greater Ranges)!petejh said:Was merely a light-hearted attempt to point out that when you said you train knees so as not to be shit at 'rock climbing' your definition was one very specific type of rock climbing. Seems it wasn't taken in the spirit it was sent. Never mind. :![]()
Liamhutch89 said:I seem to keep taking the top layer of skin off my thighs when repeatedly trying kneebars I have to push really hard on. This then scabs and takes a week or 2 to heal. Is this normal or is there a way to mitigate it? I'm wearing the Send pad
I've had a session on a boulder with quite a hard knee (for me at least) and will probably find better positions naturally, but is there anything that can be done to train this specific type of knee where you are pressing inwards with the thigh rather than up and into something? On the vid below, just working the moves, I fall out of the knee quite abruptly as it needs a lot of sidewards pressure. I'm sure this is mostly technique but has anyone trained it?