Topic split - gap between onsight and redpoint performance

[Fiend]

If only we could go back in a time machine to when grades were devised and make them all alphabetic. It's so ridiculous how slavishly people chase the next big round number. Nothing illustrates this better than a V10 being simultaneously a glorious shining prize in the USA/Australia, and the ultimate unloved runt child in Europe at 7C+.

:2thumbsup: perfect. Or abstract symbols. Would go well with the Grinah Stones guide being written entirely in poetry.

 

[abarro81]

On the sleep side, I’ll always remember Stallion’s brother Drew telling me that the duration and quality of sleep he had (he did record it) was the best predictor out of anything for his climbing performance.

Not quite the same, but my best gains and performances are - as you'd expect - usually inversely proportional to the volume of work and level of stress at that time and in the preceding few months

 

[mrjonathanr]

If only we could go back in a time machine to when grades were devised and make them all alphabetic. It's so ridiculous how slavishly people chase the next big round number. Nothing illustrates this better than a V10 being simultaneously a glorious shining prize in the USA/Australia, and the ultimate unloved runt child in Europe at 7C+.

:2thumbsup: perfect. Or abstract symbols. Would go well with the Grinah Stones guide being written entirely in poetry.

You could task Johnny with inventing a system graded entirely in far-fetched metaphors, with anything under E5 / 7A+ being in the appproach section of the crag notes.

 

[petejh]

Given the subjective nature of the grading scale I need to see a Bayesian analysis before commenting.

I thought you'd probably say something like this.

 

[petejh]

If only we could go back in a time machine to when grades were devised and make them all alphabetic. It's so ridiculous how slavishly people chase the next big round number. Nothing illustrates this better than a V10 being simultaneously a glorious shining prize in the USA/Australia, and the ultimate unloved runt child in Europe at 7C+.

By happy coincidence there are 25 grades from 5+ to 9c+, leaving one letter spare for 10a., or 'grade Z' as it would be known.

Routes below 5+ would get the Dawes walk-in metaphor.

(edit, fucked that up!)

 

[Fiend]

Given the subjective nature of the grading scale I need to see a Bayesian analysis before commenting.

Wimp!! Surely those graphs capture the true essence of climbing in a way that Golden Hour soloing on Stanage's quiet buttresses never could....

You could task Johnny with inventing a system graded entirely in far-fetched metaphors, with anything under E5 / 7A+ being in the appproach section of the crag notes.

By happy coincidence there are 25 grades from 5+ to 9c+, leaving one letter spare for 10a., or 'grade Z' as it would be known.
Routes below 5+ would get the Dawes walk-in metaphor.

:agree: :goodidea:


P.S. I know it's all a bit, errr, off-topic now, but I was going to reply with "tales from one letter grade down the food chain"....
Me:

OS: F7a
RP: F7b+/c
So 3-4 grades.

(Very, very rarely scrape up a F7a+, in direct correlation to the one F7c+ I've very rarely scraped up).

I think I'm mentally much more suitable to redpointing (good tactics, good beta analysis / refinement, much better with commitment into known "risk" situations) which means there could be more of a gap, but also physically much less suitable to redpointing (power-to-weight, and power-to-weight, maybe a bit of endurance-to-weight). Which makes it average out at the official 3-4 grades :whatever:

 

[petejh]

Me:

OS: Grade H
RP: Grade K / L
So 3-4 grades.

(Very, very rarely scrape up a grade I, in direct correlation to the one grade M I've very rarely scraped up).

FTFY

There are some good vert tecky grade L's and M's on LPT that you'd rinse on RP.

 

[Fiend]

:2thumbsup:

Don't vert and techy Þs and Ʒs at LPT involve peeling your skin back on rat crimps that feel like boning down on cheesegrater holes??

 

[Fultonius]

(Very, very rarely scrape up a F7a+, in direct correlation to the one F7c+ I've very rarely scraped up).

Are you personally doing a "Will Hunt" on my one and only 8 graded route? I hazard to say you don't have enough experience at the level, and a lot of people who have done many 7c+/8as and above are happy enough for the grade to stay "as is". I really should put some time into some other 8a - hoping to try Axiom this spring.

 

[andy moles]

:2thumbsup:

Don't vert and techy Þs and Ʒs at LPT involve peeling your skin back on rat crimps that feel like boning down on cheesegrater holes??

This accords with my experience of all things vert at LPT. Horrible :yes:

 

[petejh]

:2thumbsup:

Don't vert and techy Þs and Ʒs at LPT involve peeling your skin back on rat crimps that feel like boning down on cheesegrater holes??

Only the good ones.

 

[Fiend]

Are you personally doing a "Will Hunt" on my one and only 8 graded route?

Wash your fucking mouth out!!

Sorry, it wasn't my intention anyway, just my gut feeling, and it's all irrelevant given that the point is "the proportion of routes a step above my typical max level that I've somehow outwitted is similar for both onsight and redpoint". Also irrelevant because no-one really cares less about these milestone grades, of course :-\