The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates

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dunnyg said:
Probably isn't strong enough...

Seems unlikely :-\

Though boringly I would actually be quite interested to have someone put a grade on Franco's version. Maybe that would just spoil the fun.
 
Bradders said:
We should point out that what you've done there Dan is not the line as envisioned by the first ascensionist, as the FA of Varian the Librarian topped out over to the left not direct.

Back around.

Variant t' Librariant
 
Pretty sure the first ascensionist of Varian the Librarian would not expect further ascentionists to be constrained to a specific sequence of holds, otherwise it would be eliminate and simply big grades for bad beta. The holds used to top out here are in easy reach; to ignore them would be blinkered.
 
I don't know actually, surely Dan's is the real first ascent since he used all the available holds?


:-\ :lol:
 
Bouldering guide came out in 2008. Steve might know the whys and wherefores of The Prow, but most(?) of the boulder problems have been topped out, I think. We've just now stopped topping them out.

Good little bit of Kyloe trivia which Steve told me about the other evening. What we now normally call Jocks and Geordies is actually called Jock's, which was climbed to the break by Cubby. A group of north-easterners, clearly feeling left out, then topped it out and named the full line Jocks and Geordies.

Was down at Kyloe today, was nearly a write-off of a drive with a misty approach but it dried up and despite being savagely cold was a very good session with amazing friction.

A few of us did various versions of Jocks and Geordies, but a local(ish?) said the left hand pocket is out for the SS but OK for the traverse start - are there rules or are they fully non-eliminate?

Kinda crazy that I've climbed over 20 years and never been to Kyloe in before ha!
 
Was down at Kyloe today, was nearly a write-off of a drive with a misty approach but it dried up and despite being savagely cold was a very good session with amazing friction.

A few of us did various versions of Jocks and Geordies, but a local(ish?) said the left hand pocket is out for the SS but OK for the traverse start - are there rules or are they fully non-eliminate?

Kinda crazy that I've climbed over 20 years and never been to Kyloe in before ha!
That's the first time I've ever heard that.

I'd be on board with no lh pocket on yorkshireman
 
That's the first time I've ever heard that.

I'd be on board with no lh pocket on yorkshireman
Yeah, I think it's just hearsay, possibly heresy, or maybe both.

Seems weirdly eliminate without it, that said, there are a few vids showing people doing it the harder way without the pocket.
 
But you've been to Bowdens quite a few times?
No. I've been to Northumberland a grand total of 5 or 6 times. Maybe twice to Bowden, once to queens once to rothley and once to Kyloe. Or something. Dumby is only 30 mins away...
 
I'm kinda with SAChris on this one. Waiting for Puntonious to work out that Northumberland has typically 0.025% of the yearly rainfall of Dumby....
 
I'm kinda with SAChris on this one. Waiting for Puntonious to work out that Northumberland has typically 0.025% of the yearly rainfall of Dumby....
I'm not trying to claim it was the right decision, just the decision that has occurred...

And I'm mainly a route climber and my projects are all at Dumby so....
 
Yeah, I think it's just hearsay, possibly heresy, or maybe both.

Seems weirdly eliminate without it, that said, there are a few vids showing people doing it the harder way without the pocket.
I think it likely doesn't make much difference.

So long as you have a sequence that gets you to the stand start efficiently is not bad either way, having played about a bit with it over the years.

I was there on Saturday and thought it would be a write-off since was soo muddy at the roadside and on the walk in, but similarly was fine. Was sunny and warm which was a nice surprise
 

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