The Prow at Kyloe / Eliminates

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Pope B

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Mar 7, 2019
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UKC logbooks saying someone climbed the Prow at Kyloe yesterday, any idea who? Profile hidden in logbooks
 
Pope B said:
UKC logbooks saying someone climbed the Prow at Kyloe yesterday, any idea who? Profile hidden in logbooks

Nice little write up from the man himself https://www.instagram.com/p/CZly0-styzY/
 
That's not the prow though is it... It's a direct to the pocket up the sidewall. If you watch the vid of bosi and compare the photos for people who haven't done it even from armchairs it's a mile apart. both climbers could climb on the two diff lines at the same time upto the pocket. Looks like a good new addition but the prow takes the line of the overhang upto level with the big pockets where it swings round and joins this.
 
carlisle slapper said:
That's not the prow though is it... It's a direct to the pocket up the sidewall. If you watch the vid of bosi and compare the photos for people who haven't done it even from armchairs it's a mile apart. both climbers could climb on the two diff lines at the same time upto the pocket. Looks like a good new addition but the prow takes the line of the overhang upto level with the big pockets where it swings round and joins this.

Obviously a bit subjective, but to me it looks close enough to the original that it's more a different sequence on the same line. Seems a shame to start adding rules in to a pretty mint line.
 
Little video of Franco's ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I
 
Just for interest and discussion I thought I should perhaps clarify that The Prow, as climbed by Andy Earl climbs up the steep prow until forced slightly right high up where it eventually finished as for Hostile Environment an E4 that traverses out across the wall from the corner. Dan and Will both use an extra hold on the right that Andy avoided. Franco has climbed direct to that good hold which is on Hostile Environment. I've posted the sequence Andy climbed on Instagram for anyone who is interested.
 
remus said:
carlisle slapper said:
That's not the prow though is it... It's a direct to the pocket up the sidewall. If you watch the vid of bosi and compare the photos for people who haven't done it even from armchairs it's a mile apart. both climbers could climb on the two diff lines at the same time upto the pocket. Looks like a good new addition but the prow takes the line of the overhang upto level with the big pockets where it swings round and joins this.

Obviously a bit subjective, but to me it looks close enough to the original that it's more a different sequence on the same line. Seems a shame to start adding rules in to a pretty mint line.

Firstly good effort! I kind of agree with Dan though, I mean it's called the prow. Climbing the wall to the right, all be it with same holds doesn't feel quite the same.
If it was in Font I think the historical sequence that more takes on the visual challenge of the line would remain the dominant one. This sequence would would probably gain its own moniker like Le Faux Proue, or Le Prouette, or whatever. Maybe a bouldering vs route climbing mindset.
 
I broadly agree with ferret - on a route you'd call them different sequences on the same thing, as a boulder I'd probably call them different things by the looks of it. (Or as a boulder on lime there would be at least 2 different problems in between :lol:)
 
I abbed down the prow last summer to give it a clean, the tree felling has resulted in some off the moss falling back revealing a massive jug at the top making the big lean over move redundant now really which is a bit of a shame.
 
carlisle slapper said:
That's not the prow though is it... It's a direct to the pocket up the sidewall. If you watch the vid of bosi and compare the photos for people who haven't done it even from armchairs it's a mile apart. both climbers could climb on the two diff lines at the same time upto the pocket. Looks like a good new addition but the prow takes the line of the overhang upto level with the big pockets where it swings round and joins this.

First thought when I saw Franco's post was I hope he didn't trav in from half height again, and yet here we are :lol:

Watching Life on Hold back, and entirely from my armchair, they're clearly completely different boulder problems which share a finish. Doesn't mean what Franco did is easy though! I'd be claiming a first ascent if I were him.
 
countyyoungin said:
I abbed down the prow last summer to give it a clean, the tree felling has resulted in some off the moss falling back revealing a massive jug at the top making the big lean over move redundant now really which is a bit of a shame.

If you follow Andy’s sequence, staying closer to the prow and avoiding that good hold further right, then you will not need to do the big roll over moves as seen on Dan’s and Will’s videos.
 
Steve Crowe said:
Just for interest and discussion I thought I should perhaps clarify that The Prow, as climbed by Andy Earl climbs up the steep prow until forced slightly right high up where it eventually finished as for Hostile Environment an E4 that traverses out across the wall from the corner. Dan and Will both use an extra hold on the right that Andy avoided. Franco has climbed direct to that good hold which is on Hostile Environment. I've posted the sequence Andy climbed on Instagram for anyone who is interested.

Love to see these any chance of a link :please:
 
Comparing Dan's sequence from life on hold and Franco's sequence the line just doesn't seem that different :shrug:

Looks like Dan gets the pocket with his right and does a long move up left to a scatty pocket, whereas Franco gets the pocket with his left and does a move out right to a scatty pinky mono pocket. Other than that they seem to climb exactly the same line as far as I can tell? A couple of moves difference over a 10m line doesn't seem like enough to call it a new problem.

Life on hold footage for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Pd6vNv0etg?t=1307
 
I see the windthrow/windsnap have been put to good use evening out the landing!
What an ace bit of rock that is hey.

remus said:
Little video of Franco's ascent.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LeN-7D4Se4I
 
Hacker said:
Steve Crowe said:
Just for interest and discussion I thought I should perhaps clarify that The Prow, as climbed by Andy Earl climbs up the steep prow until forced slightly right high up where it eventually finished as for Hostile Environment an E4 that traverses out across the wall from the corner. Dan and Will both use an extra hold on the right that Andy avoided. Franco has climbed direct to that good hold which is on Hostile Environment. I've posted the sequence Andy climbed on Instagram for anyone who is interested.

Love to see these any chance of a link :please:

Here it is: https://www.instagram.com/p/CZm-RF6gIiW/?utm_medium=copy_link
 
remus said:
Comparing Dan's sequence from life on hold and Franco's sequence the line just doesn't seem that different :shrug:

Looks like Dan gets the pocket with his right and does a long move up left to a scatty pocket, whereas Franco gets the pocket with his left and does a move out right to a scatty pinky mono pocket. Other than that they seem to climb exactly the same line as far as I can tell? A couple of moves difference over a 10m line doesn't seem like enough to call it a new problem.

Life on hold footage for reference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6Pd6vNv0etg?t=1307

Andy doesn’t use that good hold on the right at all.
 

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