The Prince, Avon

[Fiend]

How far are you getting on Crystal Tips? Or are you trying to work out the line/start?

As a total Newbie on UKB feel free to school me on whether I should start a new post for this beta.

Welcome aboard. The main thing as a newbie to the board is to regularly fuck up the quoting function *

* this applies to several longtimers too.

 

[richsmithinbristol]

Welcome aboard. The main thing as a newbie to the board is to regularly fuck up the quoting function *

* this applies to several longtimers too.

[/quote]
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I’m not even sure how to reply on message threads so expect a grand amount of fuck ups on my part.

 

[Duma]

How about statement of youth? Saw Guy down at sea walls the other day and he said that was worth a look too.
On The Prince front, can confirm my sequence going direct past the second bolt works OK, just hope I can ever get the first move again!

 

[richsmithinbristol]

I went to have a look at Statement on Sunday funnily enough. I got all the moves on The Prince on NYE. Probably had the same conversation with Guy as you did!

 

[ReubenRules123]

How far are you getting on Crystal Tips? Or are you trying to work out the line/start?

As a total Newbie on UKB feel free to school me on whether I should start a new post for this beta.

Not far at all to be honest. I can get about 30cm of the floor in 2 different places before arriving at smeg all holds either way. (I think I had the same problem on Connoisseur's Choice as well.)

Don’t tell him. He’ll only go and downgrade it two grades instead of the usual one

Me????!!! Would I?

 

[abarro81]

If you want something in the same style and difficulty then check out Statement of Youth which is up the left end of the Sea Walls. Barrows gave me a spot on that back in the day when he was a punter.
That is a hard straight up crimpfest

Hi Guy! I'm still a punter, just own more kneepads than back in 2006 or whenever that was Probably worse at vert crimping than I was back then anyway!

Did the newer name for Statement ("Two gay dads" IIRC?) get ditched as being too at risk of causing offense?

P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you.. :wave:

 

[Duma]

If you want something in the same style and difficulty then check out Statement of Youth which is up the left end of the Sea Walls.

How about statement of youth? Saw Guy down at sea walls the other day and he said that was worth a look too.

I am definitely going senile...

 

[Stu Littlefair]

P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you.. :wave:

It’s the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldn’t have a burger?

And can someone post a picture or beta vid for Crystal Tips. Apparently I’ve done it but I have absolutely no memory of this. It’s making me feel senile and I hate it.

 

[guypercival]

Alex Let’s agree that you are an über-punter.
Adam originally thought of Two Gay Dads and Martin Crocker asked him if he could think of a different name before in went in the book. So I guess Martin thought it might be offensive

 

[abarro81]

Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldn’t have a burger?

The injustice of it all would be too much for the population of ukb to take...

 

[Ally Smith]

And can someone post a picture or beta vid for Crystal Tips. Apparently I’ve done it but I have absolutely no memory of this. It’s making me feel senile and I hate it.

You've definitely done it: I was there. You might even have done the first ascent? Can't remember if it was you or Rob Sutton who got up it first.

No beta video but I recall a Gaston edge for left hand and rocking over rightward on to the ramp feature that is close to the start of connoisseurs choice. The key was not to pull too hard on the sharp crystal edge/pocket. Just use it for balance and get a foot up on a horizontal band of texture before reaching up to a scoop and then the top. Typical avon dirt vert; feels hideous and then you can lap it.

 

[richsmithinbristol]

Don’t take my only first ascent away from me Ali ;D You are right though Rob Sutton was there as well as Stu. I will post some video or pictures if I can from recent ascent. Might even be there later today. I crank on the Crystal hole though to get out left. It starts of the hideous crimp to the right of the Gaston.

 

[richsmithinbristol]

P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you.. :wave:

It’s the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldn’t have a burger?

Hi Alex! Long time no see. It is indeed BGS Rich. The burger story is not mine to tell Stu. Suffice to say that Alex was in training for climbing Equadorian volcanoes at the time with another teacher who was much meaner than me.

 

[Ally Smith]

Don’t take my only first ascent away from me Ali ;D You are right though Rob Sutton was there as well as Stu.

My bad! :sorry:

Senility all round it seems

 

[richsmithinbristol]

:lol: No worries. Glad you at least remember the problem unlike Stu.

 

[Yossarian]

P.s.
Is richsmithinbristol who I think (BGS), or are there multiple Rich Smith's in Bristol who climb? Hi Rich if it is you.. :wave:

It’s the same Rich Smith, Alex. Shall we get him to tell UKB the story of how you cried because you couldn’t have a burger?

Hi Alex! Long time no see. It is indeed BGS Rich. The burger story is not mine to tell Stu. Suffice to say that Alex was in training for climbing Equadorian volcanoes at the time with another teacher who was much meaner than me.

You must also be the Rich Smith I went to Siurana with in the early 2000s, with Luke G and Roger W...

 

[andy popp]

No idea about any of these routes, but got to say I loved the Gorge with a passion - what a crag.

 

[richsmithinbristol]

You must also be the Rich Smith I went to Siurana with in the early 2000s, with Luke G and Roger W...

You definitely aren’t senile then. That is quite some memory recall. I think that was the trip I worked out how to red point rather than sport climb like a trad climber. Luke had been on some coaching trip I think with Neil Gresham? and I got all the benefit despite not being there ;D

 

[Duma]

Did this today. Heel instead of toe for rockover move meant could get first move more consistently. Clip is okish, but def adds something to the moves after! Anyway, really pleased to climb as much of the face as I could manage.

 

[remus]

Did this today. Heel instead of toe for rockover move meant could get first move more consistently. Clip is okish, but def adds something to the moves after! Anyway, really pleased to climb as much of the face as I could manage.

Good skills! Another avon classic in the bag.