The Prince, Avon

[Duma]

I've heard something about a two finger pocket, but can't find anything that could reasonably described as such. Several marginal two finger crimps, but no pockets.
Also when is it kosher to take the arete?
Remus?

 

[remus]

I've heard something about a two finger pocket, but can't find anything that could reasonably described as such. Several marginal two finger crimps, but no pockets.
Also when is it kosher to take the arete?
Remus?

Sorry, been years since I was on it and can't remember anything.

 

[chickencurry60]

Quote from ally Smith in 2006 from the ukc forums:

"3x 7a moves is an exaggeration. Couple easy moves to open up. One hard move (i can't do) followed by two intense "vertical slab" moves to get the good hold"

Had a bit of a play on it the other day and this seems pretty accurate

 

[guypercival]

There is a small round shallow indentation which is a two finger crimp....calling it a pocket is highly optimistic.
I think you can stick a foot out right on a big slopey foothold and pull up to get the arête. I don’t know if this is allowed but there are no holds for a more direct line not using the arête.

 

[Duma]

Thanks Guy, do you remember which hand you took the "pocket" with? Also, amazing effort soloing this - mattress or not, its too high to be a boulder for me!
CC60, that sounds about right, "vertical slab moves" is a great description!
Here's what I kind of managed on a shunt the other day:
Couple of easy moves to big diagonal rail, clip first bolt.
Outrageously hard rockover move from rail to really bad RH crimp (crux).
LF on near LH and hard move up to bad LH. (Still really hard, and LH hold eats skin)
Sort feet, bump RH to slightly better 2 finger crimp (could be described as a very shallow slot, candidate for the "pocket"?).
RF high on slopey foothold, RH up to OK small sidepull. Clip second bolt. (End of the really hard moves)
Paste LF on, long move to LH crimpy depression (possible candidate for pocket?)
Reach R with RH to poor crimp near arete.
LF onto the "slot" from earlier, RF out onto decent slopey foothold, LH in near RH on worse crimp.
Pounce RH to good arete.
Bimble to top.

 

[guypercival]

Duma
I had a mattress that someone had flytipped into the brick building at the other end of the sea walls and a couple of pads.
The sequence sounds pretty similar to mine apart from the start where I did a full press from the finger rail to reach the LH crimp. This was the crux for me.
Really cold temperatures will make a huge difference.

 

[Duma]

Yeah, definitely one for a cold day! I waited for the sun to drop last week but was still too warm really

 

[SA Chris]

Problem is;

If you're not in the mood to dance, step back, grab yourself a seat
This may not be uptown Jamaica, but we promise you a treat
Buster, bowl me over with your bogus dance, shuffle me off my feet

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T_srIE-YAb8

(sorry, comes into my head every time I see this thread).

 

[ReubenRules123]

There's a video of Hamish on it here: https://vimeo.com/63560969
Also, I'd be keen to try it at some point if anyone wants a belay.

 

[Duma]

Ah.

Well that's disappointing - the moves I did go straight up to just after the second bolt before getting the arete. Can see how his sequence makes sense but I'm a bit less psyched for what looks like an indirect start to the arete tbh.

Guy was your sequence the same as Hamish?

(Thanks for the vid by the way Rueben)

 

[Duma]

The gaston he takes with his LH at 1:03 I get with my RH as a sidepull, and was thinking to clip off it. Then a big move up with LH before moving out to the arete. Think I take the arete only a foot or two higher than Hamish, but my sequence climbs a lot more of the face.

Looks like the mystery "pocket" may be what he gets with his RH at 0:53, I never even looked over there tbh.

 

[ali k]

Well that's disappointing

Yep. I always wondered where it was kosher to go to the arête. A lot lower than I was looking at, and you by the sound of it.

 

[ReubenRules123]

(Thanks for the vid by the way Rueben)

No problemo. Seems it's impossible to it find via a google search for some reason.

On a similar note has anyone tried Crystal Tips at sea walls? I can't work it out at all.

 

[El Mocho]

I tried this before it was done, and then tried it with Ian and I think belayed him on the first ascent (made the mistake of trying something hard with Ian back then which nearly always resulted in him doing it first)

The gaston he takes with his LH at 1:03 I get with my RH as a sidepull, and was thinking to clip off it. Then a big move up with LH before moving out to the arete. Think I take the arete only a foot or two higher than Hamish, but my sequence climbs a lot more of the face.

Looks like the mystery "pocket" may be what he gets with his RH at 0:53, I never even looked over there tbh.

I didn't jump in with any beta as I can't remember any. I do remember the second clip was pretty hard - this is what stopped me leading it the same day as Ian, so this would suggest we were climbing much more direct and my vague memory is we were climbing higher up the wall. I don't even remember the arete at all... Although it's a little, shittish route I've always wanted to go back and try it again.

ps this isn't a dig at the sequence anyone else uses, I just wanted to climb as much of the face as I could and Ian will have just done what I told him.

 

[guypercival]

The sequence I used was just like Hamish's. Using the gaston and a biggish sloping foothold out right. It always felt a bit disappointing afterwards as I was never sure if I did it properly.
If you want something in the same style and difficulty then check out Statement of Youth which is up the left end of the Sea Walls. Barrows gave me a spot on that back in the day when he was a punter.
That is a hard straight up crimpfest

 

[Duma]

Thanks both. Agreed the face is what its about, and more is better obvs. Just a shame it turns out to be a bit eliminate.

 

[richsmithinbristol]

(Thanks for the vid by the way Rueben)

No problemo. Seems it's impossible to it find via a google search for some reason.

On a similar note has anyone tried Crystal Tips at sea walls? I can't work it out at all.

I finally managed to re climb Crystal Tips on NYE so have the beta back in my terrible memory bank. Happy to share abs also interested in what you strong folk think if it.

 

[ReubenRules123]

I finally managed to re climb Crystal Tips on NYE so have the beta back in my terrible memory bank. Happy to share abs also interested in what you strong folk think if it.

Yes please. Beta would be much appreciated.

 

[Simon Lee]

Don’t tell him. He’ll only go and downgrade it two grades instead of the usual one

 

[richsmithinbristol]

How far are you getting on Crystal Tips? Or are you trying to work out the line/start?

As a total Newbie on UKB feel free to school me on whether I should start a new post for this beta.