Duma
Well-Known Member
right, my gf, who is in on this newfangled facebook thang, says it opens on Sat the 15th, However I'm still none the wiser as to where to go... Surely this is kind of important info to make available?
The Climbing Academy - Bristol Bouldering Centre
- Thread starter Paul T
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Somebodys Fool
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I'm sure they're the sort of specifics Duma was after.
And if you still can't find it from those directions, and need further clues, I believe it's in an old warehouse.
More seriously, I encountered Paul on the mean streets of St Werburghs last night and he said it would open with a competition on the 29th of November as the matting was arriving around then.
And if you still can't find it from those directions, and need further clues, I believe it's in an old warehouse.
More seriously, I encountered Paul on the mean streets of St Werburghs last night and he said it would open with a competition on the 29th of November as the matting was arriving around then.
Here's the latest update from facebook group...
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Subject: Early November update
Things have moved on greatly since the last update and the place is now almost a premiere bouldering facility. The second coat of paint is being applied to the walls and all the plastering is complete. The finish is to a very high standard and you can really feel the quality and attention to detail inside the building. It's hard to believe now that it looked like an underground car park a few short months ago.
The last piece of wall to be built is a beast and will provide a real inspirational focal point, with a full view from the café and reception area. We’ve been taking more visitors over the last few weeks and everyone has been blown away buy the sheer number of different angles and the overall feel of high workmanship throughout. Not to mention the lighting, which is incredible, and more than one person has asked if we’ve fitted skylights.
There have been a few delays unfortunately. A couple areas of the build are proving slightly more problematic than anticipated and our opening target of the 15th is not now feasible. We have decided to pursue a soft opening as soon as we can and follow that with a party when we are up and running.
We’re finalising times and prices and they will be made known shortly, as will the location, and we’re also looking for a few extra casual staff for evenings and weekends.
Have fun climbing and I’ll send another update shortly.
Paul
--------------------
Subject: Early November update
Things have moved on greatly since the last update and the place is now almost a premiere bouldering facility. The second coat of paint is being applied to the walls and all the plastering is complete. The finish is to a very high standard and you can really feel the quality and attention to detail inside the building. It's hard to believe now that it looked like an underground car park a few short months ago.
The last piece of wall to be built is a beast and will provide a real inspirational focal point, with a full view from the café and reception area. We’ve been taking more visitors over the last few weeks and everyone has been blown away buy the sheer number of different angles and the overall feel of high workmanship throughout. Not to mention the lighting, which is incredible, and more than one person has asked if we’ve fitted skylights.
There have been a few delays unfortunately. A couple areas of the build are proving slightly more problematic than anticipated and our opening target of the 15th is not now feasible. We have decided to pursue a soft opening as soon as we can and follow that with a party when we are up and running.
We’re finalising times and prices and they will be made known shortly, as will the location, and we’re also looking for a few extra casual staff for evenings and weekends.
Have fun climbing and I’ll send another update shortly.
Paul
Location details now on the new blog, housed at www.theclimbingacademy.com
Duma
Well-Known Member
It's not up anymore, but IIRC the vote on the blog re grade sytem went to font by over 50%
??? :-\ :'(
Also, 4 circuits between Eng 5a and 6a: Overkill no?
Still, pics look good, and I'll know how hard stuff is in real money, can't wait! :bounce:
The pics do not do the place justice imo. Thankfully some foam for the matting appears to have arrived so thats a step towards opening....great....I cannot wait.
Pity about the use of british tech grading - its seems that the majority preferred font. :shrug: Not that I am complaining, its bloody brilliant that we are getting such a quality wall in Bristol. A lot of thought has clearly gone into the planning and design of the facilities, I mean, daylight lighting, underfloor heating in the toilets and showers, wifi, and huge expanses of wall space. Way ahead of most walls! :great:
And, as a parent to be, having a place next door, to leave the nipper, whilst I climb will be very welcome.
Bring on opening day
Pity about the use of british tech grading - its seems that the majority preferred font. :shrug: Not that I am complaining, its bloody brilliant that we are getting such a quality wall in Bristol. A lot of thought has clearly gone into the planning and design of the facilities, I mean, daylight lighting, underfloor heating in the toilets and showers, wifi, and huge expanses of wall space. Way ahead of most walls! :great:
And, as a parent to be, having a place next door, to leave the nipper, whilst I climb will be very welcome.
Bring on opening day
Thanks for the comments about grading guys.
I thought long and hard about the grading topic and discussed the pros and cons with a wide range of people, many of who are very good boulderers. You are right that the vote on the blog was favouring Font grades, but the volume of voters was not particularly high, and certainly not the representative cross-section that we had hoped for. There will be a dedicated board in the centre for marking up Font grades of individual problems, though circuits will get given overlapping uk tech grades which our core customers will be more familiar with. This seems the way to get the best of both grading worlds and be less confusing to people overall. For example - the 5c to 6a circuit (it's orange by the way) will encompass Font grades of 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b and 6b+. That's a real mouthful and on its own and I know would be very difficult for many people to understand.
The overlapping middle grades will encourage climbers to try circuits that they might otherwise think too difficult - this is a real problem that rears it head when people limit themselves by numbers. We're really keen on encouraging new climbers and not just servicing the existing market and this is the best way, along with excellent facilities, to do just that. There will be plenty for everyone though.
I thought long and hard about the grading topic and discussed the pros and cons with a wide range of people, many of who are very good boulderers. You are right that the vote on the blog was favouring Font grades, but the volume of voters was not particularly high, and certainly not the representative cross-section that we had hoped for. There will be a dedicated board in the centre for marking up Font grades of individual problems, though circuits will get given overlapping uk tech grades which our core customers will be more familiar with. This seems the way to get the best of both grading worlds and be less confusing to people overall. For example - the 5c to 6a circuit (it's orange by the way) will encompass Font grades of 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b and 6b+. That's a real mouthful and on its own and I know would be very difficult for many people to understand.
The overlapping middle grades will encourage climbers to try circuits that they might otherwise think too difficult - this is a real problem that rears it head when people limit themselves by numbers. We're really keen on encouraging new climbers and not just servicing the existing market and this is the best way, along with excellent facilities, to do just that. There will be plenty for everyone though.
Strange - this reads as though you want to baffle people into trying harder circuits?
Tech grades have never worked for bouldering (how can they, when they only describe the individual move?). Almost everyone has either been to Font or wants to. Why not go with grades that will give people a more useful measure of their ability and progress?
I'm not from Bristol, but everyone I know from there has been moaning about this!
Grades aside, good luck with your new wall!
i.munro
Well-Known Member
I can see a good argument for using single-move tech grades for a circuit.
If you're capable of say 6a(Uk) then you should be able to do every move & therefore eventually every problem on the 6a circuit.
Some of them might be very hard ( lots of moves high bouldering grade) & perhaps take a lot of working but in theory there shouldn't be any stopper moves.
If you're capable of say 6a(Uk) then you should be able to do every move & therefore eventually every problem on the 6a circuit.
Some of them might be very hard ( lots of moves high bouldering grade) & perhaps take a lot of working but in theory there shouldn't be any stopper moves.
r-man said:
Same here. You have to make sure no one's read Das Mail in the last 24 hours before mentioning it or there might be a thermonuclear outrage explosion.
On the bright side, the photos look fabtastic and i can't wait for opening day!
BB said:
I think that having 2 grades within the same centre will be even more confusing, if you are having font on a trainign board and eng tech on circuits. Not like anyone will us one or the other exclusively.
Anyway, good luck with the venture btw, shame you didnt open it 10 years ago when I was down there.
i.munro
Well-Known Member
Dylan said:
Because say Fb 7A is right at my limit (wish that were true) then a one move wonder at that grade is probably going to be impossible for me no matter how long I work on it. I'm simply not going to be strong enough.
On the other hand a problem with the same bouldering grade but several moves long will at least have moves that I'm capable of working & my experience is that if I can do the moves then I can (eventually) do the problem.
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