Will Hunt
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 16, 2006
- Messages
- 8,205
Just wanted to check that I've got the best beta for this and I've not missed any tricks to make it as easy as possible.
Steady away up to the rest on the flakes next to the ledge (not that you need a rest at that point). Extend the clip above the rest so you can clip it comfortably from the rest.
Climb out and get LF high, RH into the big undercut crack thing, RF high, and bring LH up and over to get the 'orrible vertical crack. RH goes low and right to steady before a big-ish move to the holds that lead into the big roof flake.
Does anybody extend the clips that you do during this bit and when you're on the big roof flake? They feel fine to clip as short draws but haven't tried them long.
Some people seem to shake for quite a while when on the roof flake. Are they beasts or am I missing something? This doesn't feel like a position you can get anything back in.
From there I put a foot way out left, stretch left to gain a low, flat sidepull thing, then put foot onto the roof flake and drop a knee. You then spin and catch the undercut in the roof crack. Slap over with the LH to get the good crimp over the lip, RH next to it, throw to flakey thing, LF up and into undercut, stand up over lip.
I've seen people do this last bit differently. Some people go off the flake straight into the undercut on the crack as a backhanded gaston. I don't think I've tried that. Easier? Any other ways of doing this section?
Steady away up to the rest on the flakes next to the ledge (not that you need a rest at that point). Extend the clip above the rest so you can clip it comfortably from the rest.
Climb out and get LF high, RH into the big undercut crack thing, RF high, and bring LH up and over to get the 'orrible vertical crack. RH goes low and right to steady before a big-ish move to the holds that lead into the big roof flake.
Does anybody extend the clips that you do during this bit and when you're on the big roof flake? They feel fine to clip as short draws but haven't tried them long.
Some people seem to shake for quite a while when on the roof flake. Are they beasts or am I missing something? This doesn't feel like a position you can get anything back in.
From there I put a foot way out left, stretch left to gain a low, flat sidepull thing, then put foot onto the roof flake and drop a knee. You then spin and catch the undercut in the roof crack. Slap over with the LH to get the good crimp over the lip, RH next to it, throw to flakey thing, LF up and into undercut, stand up over lip.
I've seen people do this last bit differently. Some people go off the flake straight into the undercut on the crack as a backhanded gaston. I don't think I've tried that. Easier? Any other ways of doing this section?