Fiend said:
Cheers for your thoughts Mischa.
MischaHY said:
How are you calculating the intensity of high end strength stuff? I had years of getting injured or overtrained until I clocked that I was always just trying a bit too hard. I just like going to max but that's where the injuries are :boohoo:
Calculating?!?! Errrrr....
Sometimes my injuries have come from trying to go
over max. I've mostly stopped that. These days the mostly seem to be a mixture of random bad luck when I'm well below my limit, sometimes just doing too much of the same thing, and possibly issues further up the chain (shoulders).
These days I tend to just go a bit easier on the board (generally only work on things for a few attempts and then move on to avoid repetitive loading in the same position) and any strength work I'll very carefully test rep-max or 1-rep-max and then work at 90% of that load. I also don't try hard stuff when I'm tired. This may sound very obvious but combined has resulted in mostly being injury free the last 5 years. Maybe there's something useful there.
There is something useful there. I have started being more careful and avoiding doing the same thing to fatigue (I'm quite good at this at the gym as I mix and match weights exercises, but it's taken me a long time to get used to it with climbing!!). I'm not really at a stage where I can train (although the GE is improving), but yes when I'm able to push things a bit, I need to be smarter about it.
If you feel shit after rest days it's usually a sign of over-fatigue but not sure what you mean about veins working properly?
Tl,DR:
Extensive DVTs in both upper legs, down to 30% venous return, can barely run, can barely walk uphill, can't shift weight due to lack of CV excercise - but specifically to rest days if I'm fully inactive, my body tends to really slow down, my legs feel especially sluggish but all of me does to some extent. Hence total rest days are an anathema.
This might be up your street Fiend (forgive me if teaching to suck eggs): https://danjohnuniversity.com/essays/even-easier-strength
Basically Dan John recommends a daily strength workout (originally taken from Pavel Tsatsouline, originator of 'greasing the groove' strength workouts. Hit the major muscle groups with the type of lift you already know. Reps low (like <5), sets low (2). Start lighter than your max. Add weight when the reps feel ridiculously easy.
"For the next forty workouts, pick five lifts. Do them every workout. Never miss a rep, in fact, never even get close to struggling. Go as light as you need to go and don’t go over ten reps for any of the movements in a workout. It is going to seem easy. When the weights feel light, simply add more weight."
The idea is that athletes can do this on top of skill-training so it's not exhausting. Lots of hype around how well it works.
n=1 As a 42 year old man I tried it 3x a week for a couple of months, not fully strictly due to kids etc. I used to be reasonably strong in the gym (1.5x 3RM bodyweight bench press etc) but haven't lifted regularly for at least 15 years (just climbed) and was a bit shocked how weak I was when I picked it back up. But these simple workouts were short and efficient and I enjoyed them. In some lifts it made a massive difference i.e. got my shoulder press back to levels I was doing in my 20s, added 15% bodyweight to my rows. Never got sore, but did get stronger for sure.
Figured might sort you out for daily dose of strength but leave you fresh enough to beast yourself crag cleaning / doing loads of boulders/routes.
