South West (England) Bouldering

[CapitalistPunter]

Ideally would have easy stuff and things in the 6`s and low 7`s.
Lynmouth looks like could be a good option?

Lynmouth is great, some really good problems there. The Joker And the Theif 7A is probably the best problem there. Twister is a good 6A crack thing on the same section.

Hartland is well worth the drive while there, beautiful place.

 

[user 20719]

Lynmouth is great, some really good problems there. The Joker And the Theif 7A is probably the best problem there. Twister is a good 6A crack thing on the same section.

Hartland is well worth the drive while there, beautiful place.

Why thank you! :-[ Joker and the Thief is one I am particularly proud of.

If you are looking for a quick hit of some excellent low to mid-grade bouldering on your doorstep in Croyde. I recommend Down End Point! The point between Croyde and Saunton Sands. Park at last lay-by before sharp bend into Croyde - walk straight down through the field... find a fisherman's rope down a gulley and head rightwards to the zawn's beneath the big white house off of Grand Designs. No guides, no info.. locals training ground pioneered by legend Steve Jossyln.
Lynmouth fits your requirements perfectly - expect a 45min drive from Croyde depending on your rural driving skills! East for a compact, easy access area and west for destination problems like Anarchy Arete! Guide and details of newer stuff on exmoorbouldering.com
Check out my instaspam @brutusthebear , Ruby Petch's, Solly Kemball Dory's and Kyle Whitehand's for a taster/ inspiration.

Hartland Quay is brilliant - lower to mid -grades head for The Trench and beyond or go to one of the best bits of rock in the UK and try Carnage! Probably an hour ish to drive from Croyde.

There is a team of us out and about in the area regularly. Feel free to PM me if you're feeling social, want a spot/ more paddage.

The tide is now your master and you will need to know when low-tide is in order to avoid disappointment!

 

[Ged]

On a different note, did I imagine that there is a Cornwall bouldering guide in production? If there is, any idea when it's out?

 

[yetix]

+1 for Carnage. Probably one of the best 7Bs I've done with similair quality to Paul o Grady I North Wales (clearly I like slopers on volcanics!)

 

[teestub]

Dependent on the age of your kid(s), Tintagel is a lovely spot on a wave cut platform, not a long approach, but there is a bit of a steep descent to get down.

Carnage is indeed amazing (made of shale though Yetix ), but has a scramble to get down to, so potentially not one for the family! If you do get down there though you're likely to have a boulder beach to yourself!

 

[Bradders]

Carnage is indeed amazing (made of shale though Yetix )

It's Culm sandstone no?

Lots of pads needed for Carnage. Found it pretty scary on my own. On the other side of the Quay the Trench area is great fun, can just work your way along the wall.

 

[user 20719]

+1 for Carnage. Probably one of the best 7Bs I've done with similair quality to Paul o Grady I North Wales (clearly I like slopers on volcanics!)

Slopers? :blink: Carnage - savage pull on undercuts, into a crimp followed by more undercuts into a finger jug... Big burley moves on an overhanging wall on Culm (carboniferous sandstone/ shale). The important part being it is very good!

Missed the family friendly bit.. Lynmouth East easily accessible and a great beach for the chidlers to mooch about on looking for sea glass/ scrambling/ paddling, all the usual tourist trappings for pre or post bouldering treats ice cream, pasties, fudge, fish n chips, cream teas, pint etc...
Lynmouth West - Is not so accessible, boulder hopping, lots of potential for unwary chidlers to fall down gaps in the rocks etc.. not ideal for a family trip out but a relatively quick way to find yourself feeling miles away from civilization in a stunning environment.

Hartland Quay - Carnage Wall involves an easy scramble to boulder hop. The Trench, Ache Ball cave, Clinical Edge etc.. boulder hopping across a large bay. Rhino boulder and End is Nigh etc.. Walk along coast path, scramble down a slab using fisherman's rope (quite a big overlap half way down) followed by boulder hopping. Hotel/ Pub for post session pint/ grub.

 

[Jonathan Platt]

Thanks everyone for all the amazing beta and recommendations, super excited now!

Lynmouth for The Joker and the Thief sounds like a great aim for the first week.
Tintagel looks brilliant. Might go on an evening myself first and check approach - kids are 12 and 14.
Just watched the vid of carnage, looks ace but probs a bit burly for me!
We were in Croyde last year for a week but didnt climb at all - do remember walking past the big white house from Grand Designs though so also keen to check out Down End Point.

Little Fistral looks an amazing spot from the UKC pics for the second week.

Also cool to here there are granite inland options as well if temps are ok.

Thanks again everyone :2thumbsup:

 

[BillyTheMountain]

On a different note, did I imagine that there is a Cornwall bouldering guide in production? If there is, any idea when it's out?

I know the Tom's (Last & Bunn) are working on a guide but I think it's been in production for quite a long time (probably a passion project) and no idea when they are aiming to get it out. Probably worth shooting Tom a message to ask.

Edit: Just found this update saying they are in the final parts of production from 21 weeks ago: https://www.instagram.com/p/Co-EhdltatF/

 

[user 20719]

At 12 and 14, JJP your wildlings will be absolutely fine on all of the approaches mentioned. They will be fine going west at Lynmouth too.
Have a good one. :2thumbsup:

 

[user 20719]

Just posted up a blog with details of new stuff at Lynmouth. Some fine highballs and some stuff that is accessible when the tide is in.

https://www.exmoorbouldering.com/post/lynmouth-circuit-gets-bigger-topos-and-details

 

[Bean-Bag]

Has anyone tried the unclimbed roof project next to tombstone in cheddar gorge?
Went to have a look at tombstone but it was sopping wet so was forced onto the neighbouring roof. Did a couple of the moves but linking anything felt proper ‘ard. Wondered if anyone’s given it any attention?

 

[Ggilbs]

A Walker Kearney problem based in Lustleigh Cleave, Called “The Great White Slope”.

Anyone have any info? Found one clip on YouTube,

https://youtu.be/fRnx3df9tHE?si=4LJQ_Ynnlm4jy4SP

I’ve found the boulder and given it a good clean but will return to finish cleaning with the right equipment.

The clip doesnt state a grade and it’s not on ukc so I can’t find any info on past sends or attempts.

Any info would be great, cheers :beer2:

 

[Thedevonshirepiemuncher]

If it's a walker problem and he bothered videoing it then probably V8 + Dartmoor grading, so V10 ISH :lol:

 

[tomrainbow]

It is one of Walker's and he probably graded it 'low to mid 7' or something like that (Macca will have a record of what Walker 'graded' it)...but take any Walker 'grade' with a large bucket of salt.

I presume it will have made its way into the new Devon Bouldering Rockfax guide which will be coming out any day now.

 

[Andy W]

For nostalgias sake

https://www.ukclimbing.com/news/2024/01/gone_west_-_bouldering_in_devon_and_cornwall-73574

 

[user 20719]

A Walker Kearney problem based in Lustleigh Cleave, Called “The Great White Slope”.

Anyone have any info? Found one clip on YouTube,

https://youtu.be/fRnx3df9tHE?si=4LJQ_Ynnlm4jy4SP

I’ve found the boulder and given it a good clean but will return to finish cleaning with the right equipment.

The clip doesnt state a grade and it’s not on ukc so I can’t find any info on past sends or attempts.

Any info would be great, cheers :beer2:

If it's not on ukc it doesn't exist
:
I can tell you that it is in the Nutcrackers area at the Cleave, it's desperate and probably will need a clean. Unrepeated AFAIK as is Yankee Doodle Dandy at the other end of the Cleave. I could find it myself but it is nigh on impossible to describe where it is!! Go to the Nutcrackers and have a sniff around.
Walker never gives a grade so it could be anything high 7s and up most likely.