South West 6th - 13th June - most things

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Fiend

Whut
Joined
Mar 4, 2004
Messages
13,902
Down in Sidmouth for a week and hoping to, well, escape Sidmouth as much as possible to climb. I'm especially keen to head over to Cornwall / Devon to climb, especially Baggy Point, and some killas/greenstone/Lizard area, but also granite too (depending on tides and faff as always). BUT failing that would be up for sport or even bouldering as long as it's not on baking hot crystalline granite in the sun. Leading E2-ish, F6c OS / F7b RP, bloc 6C, DWS F4+ assuming previous levels of terror. Know the area pretty well and can supply gabber as needed.
 
There deffo an 8a sport route to go with the crumbling choss. He's underestimating himself (which is, admittedly, really easy to do).
 
Fiend said:
Down in Sidmouth for a week and hoping to, well, escape Sidmouth as much as possible to climb. I'm especially keen to head over to Cornwall / Devon to climb, especially Baggy Point, and some killas/greenstone/Lizard area, but also granite too (depending on tides and faff as always). BUT failing that would be up for sport or even bouldering as long as it's not on baking hot crystalline granite in the sun. Leading E2-ish, F6c OS / F7b RP, bloc 6C, DWS F4+ assuming previous levels of terror. Know the area pretty well and can supply gabber as needed.

Hi Fiend, I'm often down there, I'll be in touch at the time if this is so. I'd hazard that I know the area even better ;)

Hope you're doing well
 
Cool Toby, yes keep in touch. Is hazard unbanned yet?

Andy and Webbo oh the hilarity, my track record recently is:

Failed on:

F6c
F6c+ x 3
F7a x 4
E1 5c crack
E2 6a crack x 2
E3 6a peg-protected slab

(All in good conditions with good skin when well warmed up). So my climbing (apart from over-graded esoteric quarried grit) is pretty toss hence an accurate estimation. But still I'm trying to get back to a level I'm happier with, and maybe there will be some nice supportive people down there to have some fun days with and be part of that.
 
Hi fiend, I dont know if you've been here, but of you want some really good 7a action with a bit of an adventurous twist, try here...

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_nudey_cliff-25322

Other similar crags abound if you like it
 
Cheers, WoodFT and duncan both separately recommended me that and Potato Cliff!! Yes does look like my sort of nonsense...
 
All the 7a's/7a+ on the main wall at Nudey are great fun. Potato head is limited at 7a, great at 7c up.

This should also not be missed... https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/lotg-26579
 
I had a go at summarising developments here (in a very rambling manner) but these are already out of date...

https://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2020/12/04/clipping-bolts-on-torquays-conglom-coast/
 
Tom, these look amazing. Thanks for all the work in exploring and equipping them. I'll be in touch.
 
Ha, thanks Duncan. Do get in touch next time you're down. I'd love to say that I was driven by purely altruistic motives but I love doing it! Just so lucky to have had the opportunity, future generations will have to go to other planets to have this chance!

Yesterday we did a new 7b at Nudey Cliff:

https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_nudey_cliff-25322/horse_pieces-626469

Please excuse the somewhat hyperbolic description. Needless to say it's a bit 'different', as is its little brother: https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/the_nudey_cliff-25322/long_dong_johnson-625027

...and Ged completed his new 8a+ at PH last week so lots going on still
https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/crags/potato_head-24935/gnocchi_on_devons_door-623954!
 
tomrainbow said:
I had a go at summarising developments here (in a very rambling manner) but these are already out of date...

https://tomrainbow99.wordpress.com/2020/12/04/clipping-bolts-on-torquays-conglom-coast/
Saved that for future reference. You up for a guided tour or know anyone around that week??
 
dsc_9544.jpg


You hadn't done this when I last went. Very keen! Maris Piper 8a
 
Wood FT said:
+1 Thanks to Tom for his potato farming antics.

That implies that the potatoes occasionally part company with their field. Which is of course nonsense.
 
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