Soft shoe similar fit to scarpa vs

[haydn jones]

Wondering if any other VS users know what software shoes fit them. And by soft I mean softer than the VSR. I tried the dragon on but they feel like a totally different shape and squeezed my feet.

 

[finnbin02]

Furia and furia air are very similar sort of shape and I think the same designer so could be a good pick.

 

[kelvin]

Have you tried the instinct slipper? It seems softer to me once broken in.

 

[donie]

I’ve just acquired a pair of the new purple Scarpa VSR-R LV.
Stiffness wise maybe half way between blue VSR and Drago
Forefoot is narrower but not massively
Heel significantly lower volume
Went same size as other instincts
Worth trying a pair on I reckon

 

[Paul B]

VSR were my shoes of choice eventually and if I wanted something softer I'd accept having red feet and go for a pair of Moccs. They fit fine as far as any stretchy slipper does. I stopped wearing them as I started to become extra lazy with heel hooking particularly as when combined with fairly sweaty feet, they'd just pull off my heel (the deciding moment was blowing a tufa route OS where I ended up pinching my shoe to my foot in the roof of a cave).

 

[T_B]

I didn’t find the instinct slipper to be very soft but I thought the sizing was either half a size too small, or maybe they were too narrow for me?

Drago and Drago LV are pointier than Instinct VS/VS-R but are the obvious choice. Though I’m now very intrigued by the new LV VS-R as it has the same very soft M50 rubber as used on the Veloce L - see below.

Depends what you want them for but I’m on my second pair of Veloce L. Slightly wider toe box than VS/VS-R and less pointy. Incredibly soft - fun on indoor circuit problems, brilliant on volumes, amazing pure smearing on grit, but no edging capability whatsoever. And not very good on steep board footholds. The worst shoe you could choose for Kudos wall, the best shoe for Deliverance Traverse. The heel rubber is soft and better for heelhooking than VS/VS-R in my experience.

 

[El Mocho]

I didn’t find the instinct slipper to be very soft but I thought the sizing was either half a size too small, or maybe they were too narrow for me?

Drago and Drago LV are pointier than Instinct VS/VS-R but are the obvious choice. Though I’m now very intrigued by the new LV VS-R as it has the same very soft M50 rubber as used on the Veloce L - see below.

Depends what you want them for but I’m on my second pair of Veloce L. Slightly wider toe box than VS/VS-R and less pointy. Incredibly soft - fun on indoor circuit problems, brilliant on volumes, amazing pure smearing on grit, but no edging capability whatsoever. And not very good on steep board footholds. The worst shoe you could choose for Kudos wall, the best shoe for Deliverance Traverse. The heel rubber is soft and better for heelhooking than VS/VS-R in my experience.

Similar to T_B I find the instinct slipper way stiffer than the VS-R. They do seem to size a bit smaller so I have same size as VS-R but they feel tighter so this may contribute to it.

Dragos just don't fit me as well as Instincts. I have a wide forefoot but strangely the Drago LV is slightly better on me - the heel pulls off on a heel hook rather than before I even place it on one. Ignoring the heel the front is just way less precise for my foot shape. I used to wear them on pure smeary things but I've found my VS-R to be as good 99% of the time even on smears so hardly carry the Drago anymore.

I have some Veloce lace ups. Very similar to T_B again. Great fun at wall, really comfy etc. Totally shit on any form of edge esp if you need to 'toe in'/put power through the hold. For me the Instinct heel is still better but that's partly as my Veloce are a size bigger (which prob doesn't help with the small edges either)

I've only worn the LV VS-R at the wall once (I asked for a pair but apparently shops have first dibs compared with low level sponsored climbers, woe is me etc) but my first impressions were really good. The front felt the same to me as VS-R in terms of fit but was def softer. The heel has same depth to it (which is great for me, stays on heel really well for my shaped foot) but is a touch narrower - again the only issue with VS-R heel was it's a touch wide at the base - on really marginal sideways rock on heels it's not ideal (or at least that was my excuse on Smiling for why Alex could do it and I couldn't, nothing to do with him being better...).

Obv this is all based on my foot shape and ideas of what shoes I like + wearing the LV VS-R only once indoors (+ they give them to me for free so I am contractually obliged to tell everyone how amazing they are)

 

[sdm]

Wondering if any other VS users know what software shoes fit them. And by soft I mean softer than the VSR. I tried the dragon on but they feel like a totally different shape and squeezed my feet.

The Instinct VS / VSR fits me perfectly in the toes and the heel. I wear 40.5 for a tight performance fit, or 41 for a comfort fit. If I remember correctly, my feet are marginally wider than yours around the toes.

I haven't found a softer shoe that fits as well, but I can get by without too much compromise by wearing a Furia S, Drago, or Chimera sized up to 41.5.

A 41.5 in the narrower last makes them almost as wide in the toe as a 41 Instinct, so my toes only get squeezed together a little bit.

There is a little bit of compromise in the fit of the heel, partly due to them being slightly longer than a 41 Instinct, and partly because they have less tensioning in the midfoot than the Instinct.

Out of the 3, I can get the best heel fit on the Chimera, with the worst being the Drago, but all 3 are fairly similar as they are all based on the same last. The difference being the variations in midfoot tension, and the closure system.

I haven't ever tried a Furia Air to see how they compare.

 

[haydn jones]

Some really good insights guys cheers. I'd not even seen the furias before, will definitely check them out they sound good.